chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

After searching a bit and finding nothing, I decided to make another thread. I'm looking for 15mm's worth of spacers that will work with the hub centric 6UL's. The car has ARP studs, so thats not an issue

Any insight?

fmowry

iTrader: (8)

Pricey but come with new studs that you don't need:

http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewP...eIndexID=51737

or a better deal:

http://www.kgsengineering.com/produc...ducts_id=25882

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

Hmmmmmmmm, now which route to take. Thanks for the options Frank!

EvoRoadster

iTrader: (1)

I have these with 6UL rims and they are very well made. Hub centric for Miata wheels and only $100 for four.

http://www.saferacer.com/miata-cage-...productid=1312

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

I have some like those currently, but they do nothing to center the wheel.

Cspence

iTrader: (11)

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...light=tuckin99

EvoRoadster

iTrader: (1)

Probably because the ones I linked to are Spec Miata specific, they are indeed hub centric.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

How do the ones you posted center the wheel? I know the conical lug nuts are supposed to, but I guess with these cars, you have to have both.

ftjandra

iTrader: (6)

Why do you say that? From what I have read, hubcentricity is only to help center the wheel during the install, which is easily accomplished by tightening the lug nuts in stages.

--Ferdi

EvoRoadster

iTrader: (1)

By using spacers that are hub centric to the hub precludes your having to fiddle with keeping the spacer centered while you try and tighten down the lug nuts. Its more a convenience thing than a necessity.

ftjandra

iTrader: (6)

Yes, I agree that the spacer should be hubcentric. I was just saying that the spacer does not have to have a lip for the wheel to be hubcentric as it will center itself when you tighten the lugnuts carefully.

--Ferdi

EvoRoadster

iTrader: (1)

Yup, now I understand what you were saying. Thanks for the clarification.

Chapman

iTrader: (2)

A bit off topic, but out of curiosity, why the need for spacers? Fitting mean old rubber around them?

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

They rub on the UCA's at full lock, along with the sway bar when I had it on. They also rub on the inside of the wheel well.

BTW- Nice last name.

Chapman

iTrader: (2)

Oh I see. I guess 15x9's? I didn't think most people had that problem but hopefully you can get it straightened out. Is it just the tire or the actual wheel rubbing? Is it happening on both sides?

Haha. Thanks, you too!

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

15x9's, 225NT01's, Koni's/ISC top hats, relocated sway bar (V8R swap), and stock upper control arms. -1 degree of camber, -3 degrees of caster, Zero toe

fmowry

iTrader: (8)

The price of the spacers is halfway to the price of a new FM V8 swap sway bar if they ever get it in production.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Do they rub on the inner fender at static ride height or only on track? If it's on track, ignore it, there's no way to get around it. Mine rub the shock towers a little as well as the top of the fender over really big bumps. I never hear it rub, I just notice the paint rubbed off in the fender.

IIRC, most 15x9s rub either against the FSB or the UCA. Mine rub the FSB. The solution is to not use full lock.

Chapman

iTrader: (2)

Would the spacer actually get the tire out of the way from those on full lock though? I'm sure you have tested that out already, but if not, I'd double check by mocking something up and testing it at full lock.

Spacers are insanely expensive for what they are.

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

This.

I have 2 H&R 5mm spacers. I took them to my machinist and asked him what it would cost me to have 2 more made...he said, "Oh, about 50 bucks."

Now, if he can make me 2 for $50, why can't someone mass produce them for less than $50 a pair? I don't understand.