Oooooooh ffffffffffffuuuuuuuuuu! Subframe bent on curb @#!$%$#@
 

So, I was taking my car for a drive. Not even a mile from home, going well below the speed limit and my gay ass turned in too soon on a left and hit a curb.

Subframe done :vash:
Steering rack done :crx:
Oil pan scratched :eek:
Oil cooler leaking
Radiator bent
Throttle sticking?!
What else?

This is what my car did to that curb:

What subframes fit? All years? 1.6 also?
What oil pans fit? All 1.8? KIAs?
What steering racks fit? All years? I want to depower another one.

Should I worry about the steering rods, double-A arms?

dutch-curb job.

I've done this before in another car...sorry dude.

It's all repairable and it's winter anyway... FUCK!

told you that you couldn't drive :giggle:

j/k, that sucks. Let me know if you need a hand tho

Ouch that really sucks. Def. repairable though.

Spooky -

Sorry to hear about the incident. However, pleased to hear the, "It's winter and I needed a project" mentality.

Good luck on the rebuild.

- L

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/7838/fuuuuuuu.png

Time for an LS1 conversion?

If the oil pan's not leaking or showing obvious signs of cracking, is it that risky to keep it in? Steering rack looks fine as long as you replace that U clamp. Everything besides the subframe and oil cooler is cosmetic damage. At least it looks that way.

Damn that sucks. I've got a 4-day weekend this week (starting today) so if you come up with parts in time and need another set of hands I'd be wiling to make the trip, miss working on miatas :( . Let me know.

Any 90-05 subframe should bolt in, I believe. The later cars drop the front A-arm mounting points a little which provides better geometry.

Any 1.8 oil pan fits, except possibly not the MBSP one.

I don't think the steering rack changed. While you're in there, install some spacers to lift it and deal with some bumpsteer.

Check the A-arms, it'll be somewhat obvious if they are bent. If you change the subframe, and it won't align, change them. Change your lower balljoint, though - any sort of touch and I've seen them go bad in Spec Miatas. Same with the tie rods, check them but they're probably fine.

Sucks, dude. That curb would get me too.

From NA Front Subframe into an NB - MX-5 Miata Forum

sounds like a front clip w/out engine from a wrecked NB might be the ticket.

I am going to get a 99 sub frame and steering rack with inner tie rods. I am reusing the RE/LE outer tie rods I already have.

They say the control arms of the NB have an extra weld, but I am going to reuse mine. Unless they turn out bend...

Also getting a new 94 oil pan for good measure. Not wanting to go through the trouble of making a newer version with MBSP fit. Unless someone tells me this is easy. I am not looking forward to removing any engine internals/bolts/studs.

Keep in mind the swaybar mounts on NBs are different from an NA.

How exactly?
http://www.racingbeat.com/photos/54120.jpg
This brace kit is 90-05 and is what I have.
The mount on the LCA is different, but Im keeping mine.

I would do a complete subframe swap with A-arms and steering rack attached as a unit. That should be easiest and would require the least disassembly/reassembly of individual components. That is, of course, an opinion based on something I have never done and hopefully won't. But I have seen many subframes removed and replaced on other makes, and it can be significantly easier that way. In some cars it is easier to remove the engine with the subframe than pulling just the engine (not the Miata).

I would still need to replace the ca bushings with the ES I've got. So not much of a win there. It's a 70k mi 99 with dead engine.
I will get the arms if I need to, but if not it will save me €€.

Sorry I meant the swaybar endlink mounts on the control arms.

Lower ball joint, you mean this one?
http://www.mx5centre.com.au/images/L...ll%20Joint.JPG

Somewhere it says:
What are uprights?

Interesting!
And
Seems I don't need uprights if I just raise the steering rack with spacers?

Interesting, I didn't know the NB uprights moved the steering arm. The upright is what attaches the hub to the two control arms, the only upright piece in the suspension. It's all aimed at getting the tie rods to sit as level as possible to get rid of bumpsteer.

The subframe is a hell of a lot stronger than the sheet metal bodyshell it bolts to. I sure hope you didn't end up with a tweaked bodyshell. If it was strong enough to bend the subframe like that, it is unfortunately a possibility.

Good luck, brother.

How do we figure that out?

Thanks!

I am having the subframe and steering rack with inner tie-rods and an oil pan coming my way.

I will probably wrap it up for now and have the cages build. I already ordered some replacement parts. Would welcome a helping hand!

Ouch. Goodluck on the repiar... In AmERRIca you could blame the DOT for that, then require them to paint every curb dayglow yellow... Happened locally for me.

In the Volvo Dealership, we have replaced multiple oil pans becasue of the same thing. Could have been worse for you.

you'll know when you mate up a new subframe if they dont sit flush probably.

Oil cooler is damaged (vanes) but intercooler only had bent mounting tabs.

as well, they might be able to figure some of it out when aligning the car.

A good idea hear since the car was tweaked would be to go to a good body shop for your alignment, so that you have experienced/competent people who can look at it and tell you whats what.

So, starting work on replacing the subframe and steering rack.
Is this how I should fix the engine while I remove the lower parts?

Serious question.

Wow.

is it supported by the fenders?

It it's on the seam for the fenders, then no. It'll just curl.

Wow whut?

Yes - on the fender rails, thats how it's supposed to be used.

if that's how it is supposed to be, go for it

You know so or you think so?

That engine steady is perfectly fine the way it is... we use that method all the time for Volvo repairs. (subframes , oil pans , power steering rack replace etc) Typically we have two... but that one should suffice...

The fender is bolted to the inner fender... which is the structual part of the front end.

Your good to go...

Thanks
:bowrofl:

Engine Support — 1100-Lb. Capacity | Hoisting Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment

Seems its available in the US too.

I just never considered dropping the subframe without the engine. I'd always seen them pulled as a unit. I would have thought the framerails would have been sturdier than the fender mounts for doing it that way, but if it works, it works. I would have probably just used an engine hoist to support the weight of the engine if I were pulling just the subframe, but I dont have one of those fancy support bridges like you are using.

I hope it works out well for you. It's tough luck that you have to do it at all.

Hammering it out is the method.

Update: old frame is OUT!

Not too bad at all:

1) engine on hoist, lifted slightly.
2) loosening several suspension points, roll bar i.e.
3) 4 nuts and 4 bolts (8 total) hold the sub frame to the car
4) swear while getting the steering U-joint loose from the rack
5) work the 15yr old frame loose from the car
6) profit

Lots of room under the car now, going to do several small jobs while I'm at it, such as fixinig the oil return gasket from the turbo.

Assembly of new subframe:

- old A-arms on new NB frame
- new NB steering rack, depowering by looping lines

The U-joint is also different, good thing the track came with it. Missing some bolts though.

Notice my slightly bend upper left A-arm, but Im leaving it. It doesnt go anywhere as the bushing inner sleeve is keeping things in place.

Maybe I ought to have mentioned this before, but do you see a lot of spot welds or incomplete welds on the NB or NA subframe? I've always been curious if it would be worth while to seam weld the subframe to gain extra stiffness. I know that doing so to the center brace on the 03+ cars helps a slight bit, just curious. I'm always interested in free and simple improvments.

I've also considered boxing the control arms slightly, as there is room to do that, as well, significantly helping..

Sorry for the thread jack, Looks like everythings coming along well. Hooray for new suspension mounting points.

Uhm, Im getting a full cage welded in. How much more stiffness would I need? I cant be bothered.

Oh, and I'm already in love with the 2.65 steering ratio.
(My Alfa Romeo 159 has 2.25, go figure!)

I hear you there. I'm also selfish, I was more thinking of myself than you, as not everyone's got a full cage :drool: I was just kinda askin since you have/had all the parts in front of you.

kinda more directed at the crowd whom does seam welding of the door seams, adds frame rails, door bars, etc.

Full cage probably helps a bit, I'd guess:giggle:

Pulling you sub frame is not really economical, but Ill take a look in day light on the welds on both the NA and NB frame.

I did notice the NB one is heavier (by hand).

Thanks. I understand your point, but it won't do much driving over the winter. I may also remove the engine for various... things. But, thanks for checking.

Oh, I am replacing my dented oil cooler. What size should I do with?

I now have this: Mocal 235mm/9.2" wide, 25 rows (194mm/7.6").

Capacity: 0,50l
Weight: 1,60kg

more important than the size is how you're going to get air to it and away from it. A fella with an MSM designed an ingenious little setup of louvers that pulls air away from the oil cooler and throws it out the bottom of the car, so it can feed itself from the front.

I've always used OE volvo oil coolers on my projects.. no joke. They come with a nice scoop to boot... from the 20vc 5cyl turbos.

Oil temps are not really an issue on track currently, but I think I'll settle for the 34 row instead of 25 row this time, only modest price setup.

34 rows gives 0.7l of oil extra.

is the addage "no replacement for displacement" proper, in this case, then :-)

I suppose it can't hurt. I highly doubt its possible to over-cool your oil, in any case, so why not, if you're fine with the price difference.

Small jobs done:
- oil return gasket replaced after cleaning surfaces
- sway bar shimmed, cleaned and lubed up. No more binding

Uhm, why is there a drop of oil on exactly one of the lower intake manifold studs/nuts?
Basically completely refurbished head (hot tank, new gaskets, etc.)

New subframe coming together. You can see how I looped the lines of the power steering.

Subframe into position - one man job!

Several notes for future reference:
* The subframe is near perfectly balanced under the main cross member so you can balance it on a rolling jack
* What other said is true: the driver side engien mount bolt is a total bitch. You want to focus on that one before any other hole engages. I played with the engine jack (lowering, raising) a crow bar and a jack under the sub frame to force it all into position.
* After the driver side engine mount is engaged the rest will follow quite easily

I didn't tighten anything yet, that's for another day.

New 34 row oil cooler came in.