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-   Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain (https://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/)
-   -   Pick some pads for me please (https://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/pick-some-pads-me-please-56435/)

sjmarcy 03-24-2011 05:05 PM


Originally Posted by Faeflora (Post 705857)
Squeal will make everyone think I am a ricer dumbass and my brakes need to be replaced.

If you have performance pads that squeal a bit, this will gain you respect from those that do high performance driving as opposed to ricers.

Some ricers are impressed by fake cardboard "roll cages".

Faeflora 03-24-2011 05:16 PM


Originally Posted by sjmarcy (Post 705859)
If you have performance pads that squeal a bit, this will gain you respect from those that do high performance driving as opposed to ricers.

Some ricers are impressed by fake cardboard "roll cages".

Actually I don't really care about anyone respecting me. Personally, I like to hear pleasant noises when I drive like "vroom vroom". And "whirrr" and "pshh" and "woo woo woo wooo".

jOshiro33 03-27-2011 04:45 PM


Originally Posted by sjmarcy (Post 704625)
Armorall Wheel Protectant actually works quite well. Apply every few weeks and you'll endure very little dust or dirt on your wheels. Might help you use a more aggressive pad...

http://images.solidcactus.com/autoba...protectant.jpg

speaks truth...

sjmarcy 03-27-2011 08:52 PM


Originally Posted by jOshiro33 (Post 706998)
speaks truth...

We just had lots of pollen from the trees / flowers here in NC. Your car turns yellowish in about 2 hours. But not my wheels with the wheel protectant. Would make a cool picture as the car is black. Yellow dust everywhere except the wheels!

dgmorr 03-27-2011 09:53 PM

Without trying to start a new thread... I have a set of Hawk HP+ in right now. Do I need to get new rotors for a new transfer layer when I switch to HT-10 pads? Or can I swap them in and out for the drive to the track?

curly 03-27-2011 11:53 PM

For cheap, just swap them in.

If you want slightly better braking and better pad life, have the rotors turned, but then you couldn't (shouldn't) use the HP+s again.

To do this "right", label the rotors and pads with a sharpie for left/right, and keep the current rotors with the HP+s, and get new rotors for the HT-10s.

dgmorr 03-28-2011 09:45 AM

Is there a noticeable difference? Or is it something only an elite drive would notice?

Braineack 03-28-2011 10:04 AM

the main issue is the bedding of the pads to the rotors.

curly 03-28-2011 10:49 AM

My theory is that not all pads have uniform stiffness across their entire surface. As you use the brakes, the rotor eats into the softer stuff, and the hard parts of the pad eat into the rotor. This makes your rotor into some what of a LP, with a bunch of different grooves.

New pads will ride on top of the rotor grooves, reducing a lot of the surface area that the pads have to grip.

At least that's how I've always imagined it in my head.

dgmorr 03-28-2011 12:25 PM

That's what I've always thought. I was just unsure if there is some sort of chemical(?) advantage to using dedicated rotors and pads.

creel 04-01-2011 01:21 AM

carbotech xp10 front, xp8 rear, they dust but it's non corrosive and they are all you'll ever need if you have 1.8 brakes, even on lapping days :)


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