Rear 10.75 Goodwin v4 disc failure (now with PIC)
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I want pictures of failure!
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hmm... thats odd.... i cant imagine THAT much heat building up in the rear, especially being big and slotted, and... in the REAR... maybe a manufacturers defect????
how old are they? |
Dunno what happened. Rotor fairly new (2 days) and torqued to spec.
Or I missed a minor crack and this developped?! |
:eek:Should dissipate heat better-LOL
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2 days, or 2 track days?
The only time I've cracked a rotor (a front) was after a tranny failure at Laguna where I pulled off track and wound up sitting there with my foot on the brake for 5 minutes (so it didn't roll downhill back onto the track) waiting for the tow truck. The lack of a cooldown lap really does make a big difference. --Ian |
I had an identical crack (2-3mm gap at the rim) in a OEM rear rotor (251mm) that I noticed first when I was preparing for the next race. I have no idea if it developed during the race or sometime afterward (small elves killing rotors). That crack was clearly noticeable so I don't think I could have missed it at the track.
Wet race meaning sudden cool down? |
I've done no wet on this rotor. The only thing I can think of would be no-cool-down-lap-pit-in-handbrake-on-crack.
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My vote is on a sticking caliper/caliper sliders. I see other thermal cracks as well. Rears should last 20 days, not 2.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1016410)
My vote is on a sticking caliper/caliper sliders. I see other thermal cracks as well. Rears should last 20 days, not 2.
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Sometimes you just get a bad rotor.
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Switching to M-Tuned and sport rotors in rear: cheaper and easier replacement.
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