Z_WAAAAAZ

Some background info on the car:

210whp, Supermiata 11.75 BBK up front w/ Wilwood Dynalite calipers (7420 pad shape), sport rear brakes off an NB2, factory proportioning valve, running 200TW 225/45/15 tires on 9" wheels, front airdam and 59" rear wing for aero, dual duty track/daily (I daily the car out of choice, not necessity, just enjoy driving the thing).

I got the brakes a few weeks ago and am currently running G-Loc GS-1 pads front and rear (advertised 800*F temp ceiling) because that's what they came with. They've been fine in the canyons (can get em hot enough to smell but no noticeable fade) but I know I'm going to fry these pads on track. I was looking at replacing the pads with a G-Loc R12 front/R10 rear combo but am also considering going with Wilwood BP-40s up front. My main point of contention is pad heat capacity but I'm also trying to find a pad that's at least somewhat conservative on rotor wear as far as race pads go.

Has anyone here run a similar setup with Wilwood BP-40 pads up front and if so, what pads did you match them up with in the rear?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

PFC 01 or 11 compound front and rear works great for track and street at 300+ whp.

Z_WAAAAAZ

Sweet, had glanced at those as well but mostly found feedback about them on other vehicles. I'll add those into the fray and do some more research.

Dyladjent

I have a 95 NA8 with a Kraken low mount 6258 on a stock bottom end. I'm using the BX11 Dynalite kit with ND rotors and NA8 rears with the stock prop valve. I recently switched to G-Loc R10F/R8R. My car is a dual duty DD/HPDE car. The R10/R8 have been great on the street and did fine at the track during 20 minute lapping sessions this past weekend. The R10s are extremely dusty but not nearly as loud as I expected them to be especially when they were properly bedded after the first hard session of HPDE. The R10s have good bite even cold and still have modulation from the first stop after leaving the house and only get better as they warm up.

I have never been in a car that felt good with any of the Wilwood BP-xx compounds. Both the 10s and 20s were mushy and never really inspired any confidence, I have never tried the 40s however.

The one upgrade I think would help my setup greatly is an adjustable prop valve as I feel I could get more out of the rears than I am currently. I believe the non-ABS NA8 prop valves are the most rear biased from the factory and my car still locks the fronts well before the rears on 200TW tires with the R10/R8 stagger.

Ryan5405

I also run the gs1’s on the street.

Gloc r10 on the front and r8 on the rear. Held up fine with around 300whp. Good bite and no fade. Should be about the lowest wear on rotors set up from gloc.

Z_WAAAAAZ

Killer. Appreciate the feedback, guys. Wouldn't mind going G-Loc given 949 is right down the road from me. Glad to hear the R10/R8 combo is up to snuff for turbo track use.

Dyladjent, I wonder if R10/R10 on your setup would be the ticket to nailing the bias. Although at that point I guess it'd already be worth buying an adjustable prop valve anyway...

asalinas

I'm here to provide another datapoint for that G-loc combo. I've been tracking my miata with very similar specs as yours and the breaks hold up great in 20 min sessions.

Z_WAAAAAZ

R10/R8 or R10/R10 combo? It's not a huge difference but I just want to make sure I'm hearing you out right.

asalinas

R10/R8 in my case. I was even using before R8/R8 and that was great as well.

apexanimal

when you say you have the rear brakes from a sport - do you mean rotors, or calipers as well?

this and the factory prop valve heavily influence pad choice.

Z_WAAAAAZ

Sport rotors and calipers. I should probably get an adjustable prop valve anyways but I figured I could still get the bias close for now via pad compounds.

Gee Emm

If you are tempted to go for the Gloc12 pad up front, be prepared for some serious cleaning of the wheels after every event. Glocs are my pad of choice, but the 12s have a bad dusting problem (the 10/8s that I now use on the street/track days are fine), I killed some wheels by neglecting that task, structurally fine but a close look and they are covered in a thick deposit that is very difficult to remove - ugly!.

Padlock

I'm running R12 front (7420 size) and R10 rear (1.8 Base Caliper Size) on Sport rotors w/ Wilwood Prop.

Other than the front's being a little loud on the street at times, I don't really have any issues with them. I also freely admit I don't have any other experience on a big brake setup like this to compare it to. Wouldn't mind experimenting with an R10 front in the future, but it'll be a year or two before I wear through these monster sized pads.

Bopop

I'm running the same setup (PFC11 7420 front and sport rear) with an adjustable prop valve and the braking is excellent. Very nice on the street and no fade on track at 200whp with a heavy NB2.

There is a lot of dust but it doesn’t seem to damage the wheels even after leaving it for a month and it cleans off pretty easily.

Sometimes it will have a bit of a squeak at low speed braking but the rotors are wearing very nicely.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Would recommend G-Loc R12 front, R10 rear for your set up. Add our ducts to extend pad and rotor life even more.

apexanimal

I ran on the sport rear rotor and caliper setup like you have, but did have the prop valve at the time and had a hard time getting the rear to not lock up and rotate on me.
I also had 800/500 springs which play a role - what spring rates do you have?
Torsen rear?

Depending on the above a bit, you're going to have a hard time not locking up the rears... r12 front and r8 rear would be my recommendation (subject to spring rate/lsd info)

rjacobs

Why are you playing with bias with 150+ dollar pads? When you can throw a 50 dollar bias valve in and resolve most issues and run whatever you want(within reason obviously)... What MC are you running? 1"? 15/16"? 7/8"?

Local guy has Wilwood 4 piston fronts and stock NA rears... He said he was thinking of selling his Wilwoods and going back to a stock type front setup because it was to easy to lock the fronts and he had no pedal modulation. He had been playing with pad compounds to the point he was ravaging front pads in 1 weekend to try to keep them manageable vs. the rears. I said "well a $50 prop valve will solve at least 50% of that, and a $100 1" master cylinder will solve the modulation issue and I have a flair tool, tubing bender and a bunch of extra tubing and flair nuts we can fix your **** properly instead of downgrading your brakes and you will then be able to run proper compounds".

I have a setup similar to your setup(bro-fab Afco's with 7420 pads, real sport rears) and have a set of R12/R8's to go on it with a Wilwood prop valve and Honed booster delete and a 7/8 master(recommended for the booster delete). If I was running a booster I would run at least a 1" master with our, pretty similar, brake setups.

Z_WAAAAAZ

Will be putting a set of ducts on order from you guys. Hadn't mentioned it but I've been planning on that since I got the brakes.

I'm running 560lb F/450LB R (might upgrade to something stiffer in the future but have no complaints currently). 4.1 torsen out back.

Good point. Guess I should throw a prop valve in anyway while I'm at it. I'll add it to the list. I'm running a booster but don't know what size MC.

Putting together all the input I've taken in from this post, I think my starting point will look like this:
-R12F/R10R
-Adjustable prop valve
-Supermiata brake ducts once they land

Thanks you all your input!

rjacobs

You have a 95... it likely has a 7/8 master. I would do a 1" with your booster. Supermiata has a nice kit.

for the prop valve i got a bracket from napp motorsports thats pretty slick to mount it.

​​​​​​

Z_WAAAAAZ

That's a pretty slick setup right there. I'll probably snag the Napp bracket as well with the prop valve from Supermiata.

I'll probably run with my current master cylinder setup for the time being and just get used to how the new pads act and play with the prop valve. Might consider the booster delete down the road, though, and just stick with my 7/8". I don't have tons to brag about but leg strength isn't an issue for me so the pros of no booster may outweigh the cons.