Its actually not supposed to be bad because the pedal ratio changes from 4:1 to 6:1 so you get more leverage in the pedal.

But the biggest advantage, from what I have read(my car is still under construction), is that you get a ton of pedal travel for modulation. I have heard somebody say ~3" but that seems like a lot to me. My buddies with boosted brake NB's say they end up with like 1" of travel for modulation, so 3" will be fantastic.

You need to run an adjustable proportioning valve. Make sure you do not run too much bias to the rear. Many set them up on the street to where it will lock up the rear which will often cause a spin on the track. I run a dynapro 11" front kit with a non-sport NB1 rear. Willwood smooth rotors with GLoc R10 pads for the track, BP20's for the street and centric plain rotors in the rear with powerstop ST636 pads for both. This combination has worked good and is somewhat affordable. The G-Loc pads wear quickly, and I would not recommend them for the street. FWIW I'm using the OE MC with the smaller diameter and have no issues with pedal feel or apply.

Wait, so you haven't run the above setup on your car yet?


Too much rear bias was my only (mild) fear of playing with the prop valve at first haha. I'll be sure to find a nice open spot to fiddle with it and keep the bias from locking the rears. Don't wanna end up like this guy

https://yousuckatracing.com/2015/01/...g-the-nannies/

Just out of curiosity, do you change your proportioning valve setting when changing your front pads out? I'm assuming yes since the bias would be much more rearward with the BP20s up front/same rears.

I was initially, but now I have been leaving it the same. I was adding an 1/8 of a turn more to rear for the street. There are quite a few variables even though the rear is a constant. The suspension settings have a big impact on the weight transfer. I also run two different tire setups. The track tires are 225 Rivals which I do run on the street occasionally to finish them off or for canyon runs. I also run 205 ECS for weather or for a little sliding around. Both are on 15x8 wheels. The APV is different then the oe proportion valve because the oe unit has a knee type split which allows more rear breaking at low pedal pressures. The adjustable unit feels as if it requires a bit more pedal for lighter stops. The pedal feel is very good though, feels solid and linear.

No(my car is in a million pieces right now), but I have researched it to death, talked to a bunch of people who run basically the same or similar setup, talked to Ed about brake pads for the setup(same recommendation they are giving you on R12/R8), etc... I am confident in what its going to give me. I have found nobody, so far, that regretted the overall setup. My car is a dedicated track car, will not be on the street at all. If I was building a dual use car I dont think I would have gone with a booster delete.

Im not saying the full booster delete is what you need, but definitely the prop valve to balance things out. I had exactly one person tell me "oh just run the factory prop valve, it'll be fine". Everybody else said "thats the dumbest thing I have ever heard to recommend with your setup, you have to be able to tune the rears". I mean shit, Bronson from Bro-Fab used to run his rear prop valve in his car on the passenger side, about even with the shifter mounted to the tunnel. He said he liked to adjust it on the fly and IIRC he said the remote adjuster knob that Wilwood sells isnt that good.

Grabbed my R12/R10 pads and a Wilwood prop valve from 949 Racing today. Thanks all!

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1edfe06676.jpg

Can anyone else with the same/similar setup confirm that these pads are grabby as hell? I’ve only had the chance to drive the car home and back to work, about 20 miles, but the brakes are really touchy now. I can bring the car to a fairly abrupt stop just by relaxing the weight of my foot on the pedal.

I haven’t had a chance to properly bed the pads but am heading out to Chuckwalla this weekend and was hoping to do it there. Is the grabbiness something I can expect to fade (pun intended) after the bed-in procedure or (god forbid) am I going to have to suck it up work on improving my brake control with these?

Yep, the good thing about the G-Locs is their modulation. Once they are bedded in they have a really big window of pressure that they operate at. You just have to make sure you bed them in on new or resurfaced rotors. They won't be able to establish a good transfer layer without a fresh surface.

My R10s aren't really even that loud after bedding them in on new rotors but my friends R8s that didn't use fresh rotors sound broken.

Aight, good to hear, thanks man. I figured that was the case but just wanted to be sure. I was running G-Loc GS-1 pads front and rear before so I should be good to go on those. Brakes only make occasional minimal noise at low speeds when cold.

Wish I could bed the pads in sooner and get an idea of what they're gonna feel like on track but I'm sure I'll figure them out quick enough on Saturday.

I found the R12s were a bit grabby on first application from cold (ie first of the day), but as soon as there is a bit of heat in them/the disks all fine except for some noise sometimes which turned heads. 10s were fine, no grabbing, no noise.

Yeah, do bed them in, they are great pads but they need to be prepared.

Got some laps in at Chuckwalla today. Did the bed in procedure during my first session while everyone was taking it easy.
The grabbiness is gone. These things feel great. Thanks all.