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Old 04-05-2010, 12:38 PM   #1
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Default Removing suspension components

Since I have new shocks that need to go in. I figure that now is also a good time to put in new bushings. After searching shock removal, the "San Diego" method and the "Long Bolt" method seem to be the two options. However, I am removing control arms as well.

Please check my method.

Remove lower control arm and shocks will be easy to get out. Remove shocks, upper control arms, change bushings, reinstall control arms. Then follow the "Long Bolt" method for re installation of shocks.

Does this sound correct? I have never tackled a suspension job.

Thanks
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:33 AM   #2
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Sure does. Its easy if its not rusted. That sux!
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Old 04-06-2010, 12:44 PM   #3
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Thanks

I just ordered a set of prothane bushings off ebay. Prothane seems to get pretty good reviews when compared to energy suspension. I've always liked the underdog, so I'll give them a try. $156 with priority mail shipping. Includes everything but the endlink bushings.
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Old 04-06-2010, 02:44 PM   #4
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I've been thinking about prothanes as well, keep us posted with install details and how well they work.
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:32 PM   #5
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I'll provide feedback when it is done. I'm going to put the car on jack stands this weekend and remove the suspension. Hopefully this side project doesn't derail the rest of the project for too long.
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:57 PM   #6
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Hopefully you can get your longbolts out. I couldn't for the life of me get the right side out. Left came out like buttah and made the shock install the quickest I've ever done, but the long-bolt fucked my plans for fast removal on pass side. It got stuck half way out and would not budge.

I'll probably pass the task of bushing install to a shop though. Tie rods, bushings, diff mounts... Damn I hate this car

If all goes to plan it shouldn't be too bad, but it never goes according to plans.

Good luck with your install, you'll get through it, and I can't wait for your review of the freshly revalved Steward Development Billies!
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:45 PM   #7
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A rubber mallet will be your friend with all of this. Before I did mine, I read all the different methods like you but didn't end up using anything on the install. I just took **** apart until it worked lol. Good luck!
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Old 05-04-2010, 02:47 AM   #8
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My prothane bushings arrived tonight and I decided to give the install a try. It took 30min per corner (this did not include sway bar or endlinks) Most of the time is spent applying the lubricating goop. Someone needs to find a spray-on goop.

I would never recommend anyone attempting the endlink bushings unless you have a press. I used a 3 point puller on one, and realized that it was a waste of my time. I'm taking the endlinks to have the old bushings removed and the new bushings pressed in. I spent an hour getting 1 bushing out and couldn't get the new one in.

I have a concern about the zerk fittings with the solid 1 piece bushing. There is no way for the grease to get down to the metal core. Should I drill a hole through the bushing to the metal insert so that the grease can get there?

My next concern is that the front endlink bushings came with the metal cores. The rears do not. I guess I am supposed to burn the rubber off of the rears. There would be too much slop if I just use the rear bushings as is. What's the opinion on this?


Prothane bushings come in 2 piece and 3 piece setups.







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Old 05-07-2010, 10:09 AM   #9
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I managed to get the endlink bushings out with a torch, and then pressed the new ones in with a bench vise. It was rather easy. The diff busing removal was a pain. I removed the diff from the car. Burnt out the bushings, then pounded out the metal sleeve. The sleeve was really in there.
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