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Next step is to get the head back on the engine (swallowed a screw/small bolt, dislodged SUB), get it aligned, and do a track test. I am particularly interested in any changes to the handling, and the possibility of changes to spring rate/shock valving that might be called for.
Been a while, too long in fact. Because Reasons, had the car on the track yesterday for the first time in about 15 months. Basically a shakedown, but some observations.
At SMPGP, I hop a couple of kerbs. Where there was a bit of thumping before, this time there was a definite rattle sound. All looked ok, but the car will go on a hoist for a check out.
Times were good, on old rubber (AO50/M compound). The fast T1 was faster than a full aero equipped MX5 that I was in company with, even though I was running naked aero-wise (don't ask). Overall, about a tenth off the previous outing on that track. Subjectively, hard to say, given that this car is much rawer than the road MX5 that I competed with last year, which had me spending quite a bit of time playing myself back in. However even at this stage it felt good, very responsive. A little early to tell whether spring/shocks will need changes as a result of the freer movement, I am happy to let that emerge (or not, as the case may be) over future outings.
Spent quite a bit of time reading many of the threads on delrin bushings as my NB upper rears are shot to the point they are clunking and car is tramlining.
Love the full delrin on my C6Z, and was ready with a press to install.
Then I tried to order a set, 5 week backorder and a weekend at Sebring scheduled in 4 weeks
Quick update, The guys were nice enough to send me just the in stock rear upper bushings so I could fix before Sebring.
What bushings do you think clunk less and have better feel in corners?
Old bushings came out with just a piece of pipe a socket and vise.
My bushings that arrived last week are made from black delrin vs the white you have been using for a while?
In the past I have noted black plastics tend to have slightly better strength than white due to the needed mixtures? Is this the case?
Is there a material strength difference, or is it just cosmetic?
Looking fwd to the rest of the kit.
My RUCA-I's look the same... really need to get the Delrin installed
My kit from Sean is stuck at the post office... sadly, its awaiting a signature confirmation and I'm never home during delivery or post office hours.. let the games of figuring out how to get my package begin!
My RUCA-I's look the same... really need to get the Delrin installed
My kit from Sean is stuck at the post office... sadly, its awaiting a signature confirmation and I'm never home during delivery or post office hours.. let the games of figuring out how to get my package begin!
My bushings that arrived last week are made from black delrin vs the white you have been using for a while?
In the past I have noted black plastics tend to have slightly better strength than white due to the needed mixtures? Is this the case?
Is there a material strength difference, or is it just cosmetic?
Looking fwd to the rest of the kit.
We've been using black for a while, because once you go black.... most people prefer it.
The spec sheets do not differentiate between natural and black, so I'm lead to believe there is no difference, or it is negligible.
I have had my bushings in for about a year now. I got the NASA full enchilada. This is an auto-x car that gets driven to events and occasionally for mental health reasons. So about 4000 miles and maybe 160 auto-x runs. Car is on 275 A7's, weighs 2050 in race trim, 130wtq and 150whp from VVT engine, and ARE Penskes with spherical tophats are the relevant bits.
The sadfab kit replaced a poly kit from Prothane that had been on the car for about three years. Now I know everyone hates poly on here but my personal experience with the kit I installed was quite positive. I never had squeaks or clunks, or a broken bushing, or a binding bushing after three years and never taking them out to relube. But I got the sadfab kit anyhow as it was just a logical better choice and three years is just too long for poly.
After installing the sadfab kit I had to make a minor shock setting as the car felt a little loose. The bushing change also accompanied a front suspension swap to NB parts which netted about .3* less camber and +2* more caster. And possibly I could have driven around the looseness but the adjustment seemed to do the trick and I never went back to the other setting in this years time. Since this is an auto-x car I don't have any data for comparison that would prove one is better than the other plus also the NB parts would likely skew the results. For street driving there was also no negligible difference with the added stiffness of Delrin for me but since the car rides on extreme summer tires and 800/400 springs the level of comfort I have gotten used to might differ those who would notice rubber over poly over delrin.
Just recently they front lowers were out to address a knocking from the front suspension. The bushings (both the delrin and the poly) had squished a bit which allowed the bearings (sleeves) to be a touch too big. A quick trip to a lathe to take out a mil from each front and back bearing and all is good again. The only other gripe I had with these was on install the RLCA-O bushings had to be filed down quite a bit to fit. Then again, it's better to have the bushings too big than too small. Can't stretch the bushings after all.
Overall I definitely recommend these to anyone who is serious about their suspension.
I have addressed the RLCA-O issue as you were not the only one to have that problem with some of the early kits. Theyre still tight for the reasons you mention, but you shouldn't have to remove any material any longer. That one is a pain to get right as there is a huge difference in the dimension between bushing bores across different arms. At least the rear knuckle is fly cut across the sides and that dimension is very consistent in my experience.
08-11-2016, 06:54 PM
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