Cars not put together yet just wire tucked. I've got a hx35 going on it. I'd be happy with 300whp.

Fuck! Anyone else see what I see?

It says newb but I've been on here for years. But I'd rather sell the car than ask another question. Especially if no one knows the answer.

If you had bothered to search, with this statement, you'd have realized how goddamn stupid this question is.

Hint: 7" gears are known to be good to ??? hp, require no fabrication, and are bolt in. So, what's the ???

I'm sorry you feel that you have to take the lords name in vein. I've done plenty of research that's why I asked the question about the rx8 diff. There isn't much info for that particular 8" diff. If the 7" diff was the best thing since sliced bread s2000 owners wouldn't swap them out. My intent is to spend the money on heavy duty drivetrain parts now rather then buy 2-3 transmissions or differentials.

You say you want to buy heavy duty parts so you don't have to replace them down the road but you also say you'll be drag racing. Those two don't go together.

I have a tii rx7 trans and diff swap in my car. I plan on drag racing a bit. I already bought the spares for when I blow these first ones up.

You'll probably get decent life out of a 7"

just don't drag a torsen.

If you need a big rear end, don't be a tard, get a Ford 8.8 swap from V8 roadsters. Its the best option for big power drag launches and you won't be reinventing the wheel. I went to the drag strip once, I came home with a blown torsen. It blew in the burnout box from wheel hop. Ditch the PPF for drag!!!

Monster Miata has the Ford swap too.

I believe V8roadsters just released a kit for the Getrag and keeping the PPF. Don't know about the 8.8 but you could ask them.

I haven't been on the forum lately but it's nice to see the same shit going on.

Yo, Leo, Bro. Don't patronize us. Registered January of 2009. Saying you've been on for years. Please. Then stating stuff like you want a new rear end for reliability, eluding to the 7" not being enough. Bro. Please. Bro. Then stating you'd be happy with 300hp. Bro, dude, bro. You've read about as much of mt.net as you have your 5th grade writers inc book. please.

Our literal advice is not going to cut it. YOLO build and give us the finger.

Not sure why you would want the PPF if you are upgrading for drag racing though. My understanding is that the flex of the PPF is what allows a lot of the wheel hop to happen which is what is breaking diffs. I ditched the PPF for a solid front mount on the diff and solid rear mount on the trans in hopes to eliminate wheel hop

The PPF has absolutely nothing to do with wheelhop, IMO.

With solid axle cars/trucks wheel hop a lot of times comes from axle wrap. I'm not sure about the mechanics of the movement of an IRS but if the diff is allowed to rotate it can lead to wheel hop when it rotates then unloads.

Toyota Tacomas are known for this. Too bad I didn't know it before I bought. It drives me nuts, but the dealers claim it as "normal". Just can't get on it from a stop or it lurches/hops when it shifts.

Traction bars will normally fix that. It happens to a lot of leaf sprung trucks.

Because it twists.

Which traction bars stop :p

Does the same twisting happen with the miata suspension. Anyone have some undercar video?

Yes, the leaf springs on the Miata allow it to wind up. You can install traction bars to stop it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1418135131

cheap drag racing diff. if you blow it up with a 1.8l i'll mail you $20.