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Gents,
We're having a bear of a time getting the outer axle stub off the circlip on the RX8 halfshaft. Any tips or hacks?
Tried putting a collar on the halfshaft then using the hold shaft as a slide hammer.
Tried a chisel on the inner tripod.
Tried a 3' long Snap-On pry bar.
I've heard that new/reman Rockauto axles are very difficult, maybe impossible to disassemble for the conversion.
I've done 4 conversion axles for myself now (original hub conversion set plus a set for the spares box) and I used junkyard/ebay axles both times. A strong whack with a chisel on the inner tripod popped all of them free pretty easily. .
I have had better luck by articulating CV joints enough that one of the lobes of the inner race (that's not a tripod joint) is clear and hitting the race directly with a hammer. This has removed many joints that I thought were impossible when I tried with a chisel. This also has a lower risk of collateral damage than using a chisel, since you can use the shaft as a "guide" and hit the right spot dead on and perfectly axially with a heavy drilling hammer. Even better, use a metal-faced dead-blow hammer.
I've always done this like AFM. The heavier the hammer the better it works. I too use a "drilling" hammer, a cheap Harbor Freight one.
On a really stubborn joint I'll pull out an air hammer with a hammer head bit, turn the air pressure way down, and vibrate the critter apart.
Aftermarket (mostly Chinese stuff) circlips are commonly a tiny bit larger with a cross section that is also thicker.
I ALWAYS change these out with the original ones if I can.
Wait till you get an inner CV joint stuck (in this same manner) inside a FWD transmission where you cannot get a nice straight hit on the stuck joint.
It's NOT fun...
Teaches you quickly to NOT install the Chinese clip.
Another problem I find with the aftermarket axles is the boots/joints are different sizes (OD) than the stock stuff so you cannot buy boots if you want too.
A final PIA is the inner diameter where it fits into the output seals (most FWD trannys) is just different enough that if you don't install new output seals you will get to later.
This is a "come back" for me. It's not really a warranty but it was caused by the new, inexpensive axle and most customers see it as a warranty.
I sell the output seals and installation when I replace axles and if the customer declines and it leaks, they get to pay for their frugality.
I FAR prefer changing the boots on a good factory axle over replacement, but this takes twice as long and the profit margin is LESS.
Almost no-one replaces boots anymore. I can commonly purchase a new aftermarket axle for 30% LESS that the factory boots and the axles always come with a "lifetime" warranty.
I do not use cheap axles for any performance-oriented build.
The clip rule: "do not use Chinese clips if possible" applies to ANY Chinese clip. The GM transmission line fittings NEVER work with the aftermarket clips they come with. If you can get them in the secondary safety caps will not fit over them.
You install an aftermarket (all Chinese!) radiator in a 15-year-old Chevy Tahoe and get to buy a transmission 3 weeks later when the "not quite right" clip lets a cooler line pop off.
A job you make $300 profit on ends up costing you a $1500 tranny rebuild and you get to do the R&R for free.
I HATE the clips...
Just for laughs, we folded the stub on the Rock Auto axle over to expose the tripod to a BFH. Succeeded in destroying the tripod. Sweet.
So perhaps only a few data points on this but it does appear that the China/Rock Auto new RX8 axles are inseparable, thus not appropriate for NC axle conversions.
So..
having been confused by Mazda part numbers being superceded and salvagers not listing things correctly, we have ordered a total of 6 axles, only one of which fits. That one came from
a Japanese salvage auction site.
For the record, only the 28 outboard spline "standard power" (auto) axles from the S1 (04-08) mate to the NC shafts.
Mazda MA01-25-50XA is for the right side. That's the superceded number from MA01-25-500 & MA01-25-50X. No number listed for left side. But the outer section is symmetrical so left or right is OK.
Mazda Motorsports has them for $444 racer price. I can't find a reliable source anywhere else. If you search ebay or other salvage sites, just make sure they are actually OEM S1 auto. Nothing else works and they seem to be scarce.
My trick has been to just look for ebay listings with pictures of the actual item and make sure they're smooth shaft axles, not bumpy shaft.
AFAIK, any smooth shaft RX8 axle will work. Like E said, the outer CVs are the same so it doesn't matter if you get two lefts or two rights or one each.
02-22-2022, 01:42 PM
RX8 hub conversion for NC stub shaft removal
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