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Old 12-27-2014, 08:05 PM   #1
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I don't know if someone has already posted this or not but when I installed Jongbloed 10" wheels, I found 2 issues. Under full turn the outside wheel either hit or came really close to hitting the RB sway bar and the inner wheel the same with the pinch weld on the rear of the upper control arm. I thought of restricting the steering rack someway but decided I didn't want something rubbing back and forth on the inside of the boots so I came up with this which takes 20 mins to do. I had some 1/4" aluminum laying around so used that.As you can see I attached them to the lower shock mounting bolt and I made the bend so that it hits the knuckle arm at 90* and kept sawing to length until they stop the wheels about a 1/2" from either of the above situations. Before someone says to use a spacer, I didn't want to as this is on an NB, and the fenders well work with a flat roll and no flares. Here are some pics with the wheels turned out, and in and straight
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STEERING STOPS-001.jpg   STEERING STOPS-002.jpg   STEERING STOPS-003.jpg  
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Old 12-27-2014, 09:11 PM   #2
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Can you post a picture of how the wheels look with stock fenders?
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Old 12-27-2014, 09:53 PM   #3
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Are you worried about that piece of aluminum bending or breaking after repeated use?
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Old 12-28-2014, 12:16 AM   #4
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Looks like a good solution. If you're interested in eliminating them, I'm pretty sure martin would trade you racks. His MSM has a larger turning radius, limited for the stock MSM intercooler pipes apparently. Just an FYI.
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Old 12-28-2014, 01:50 AM   #5
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Hi Josh Nah this works fine and is easy to do.

Z That is why I made sure the angle makes it so they are 90* to the arm and besides a person should hardly ever be against them with any force.They are just mainly there for when trying to turn in a tight spot like out of a parking spot in the pits and 1/4" aluminum is tuff stuff. Its mainly to protect the wheels from getting machined on. If your worried, make them out of steel, well need a torch to bend them.
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