suspension tuning help
 

My car is picking up the front inside wheel when I get on the power. I have twin tube tein flex at 4/5 from max rate with 580/400 springs, rb front hollow and solid rear bar with 1.7* front camber (max), 2.2* rear, 1/16 tow in rear, and 4* caster. Right now the rear is planted, but when I get on the gas the front washes out a bit...and I'd love to have a lot more toe in.

I have no bracing in the car so should I play wish suspension settings, weld up mounts for my rear triangle brace, get door bars, get a strut bar, change sway bars, or what?

SM cars were beating my ass with turn in and ultimate grip.

Any reason no bracing? Extra weight or just didn't feel like the costs were worth it? I don't drive a car on par with yours, but I like to think all of the bracing I've added really helped. I don't track mine, so again, not on the same level, but from spirited driving on the road, like high speed on ramps the car now vs. stock feels much less likely to kick the rear end out and the front feels more much planted and "point and go". I'm running FM frame rail braces, BF double hoop roll bar, shock tower brace, all of the factory R package bracing and FM sways. Only think I lack that I want is the BF frog arms that go under the fenders to strengthen the corner on the passenger tub to the suspension/shock mount area in the front. I think one of the best upgrades I could have made were bushings. Having known what I know now, I wouldn't have gone with OEM bushings all the way around, I would have done a harder after market bushing kit. Even the new stock bushings helped a good bit with the handling of the car. Felt about equal to adding stiffer sway bars.

Surely your good in the tire department. Everything else looks good to me.

I just haven't gotten around to it. I'm leaning toward door bars and the k-brace in the rear.

I want door bars so badly, but I know it wouldn't work too well with my car being my daily driver. I can see how they would help out a lot. Whats a K brace? Is that the brace that mounts on the diff housing and sub frame?

I would make some sub frame braces like OEM with some tubing with crushed ends, buy FM frame rail braces and door bars and be done with it (and the k brace, whatever it is).

reduce front roll stiffness or reduce front rebound damping to allow the wheel to drop.

Yea..you gotta soften the front up a little. I would go with reducing the roll stiffness.

At what height is your ride?

Find out first if your front outside is running out of droop travel, or your setup is such that all the weight is transferring off the inside front.

Picking up a front tire happens in some RWD cars, when you have roll and squat at the same time, with grippy tires.

Lack of droop is typically a problem with shocks with very short travel, or very uneven pavement, such as tight uphill hairpin turns on bumpy mountain roads. (I have seen a stock Corolla get momentarilyl stuck like this!)

If you're picking up a wheel by simply transferring all the weight off a front wheel, and if you have excess understeer, then simply reduce the front stiffness - either by adjusting your sways or reducing front spring rate. The latter however will increase front lift/droop under power and you may then run into problem #1.

If you're picking up a front wheel and the handling is fine, you can ignore it. If you're picking up a front wheel and the car only understeers when it picks up a front wheel, then fix it - you may need to soften the front to bring the tire down, and then decrease front camber to rebalance the car. This has the benefit of possibly reducing inner tire wear (which wears under braking).

y8s, the tire is probably in the air long enough that low-speed rebound damping isn't keeping it from coming down.

I have door bars in my daily driver. You get used to it, not that big a deal IMO.

you have a lot of oversteer with this setup, dont you?

Why bother with door bars? Just cage the bitch.



You need to figure out what the cause of the issue is before you try and solve it. Is it chassis flex? Suspension travel? Bind? ect?

EEEE bro that's sick la verga!

Me? No. With neutral and light throttle on corner exit it is balanced. With moderate throttle there is oversteer but it is controllable. No rear sway FTW.

I could stand for some heavier spring rates, but if you want "this" kind of flat turn in...... a cage, and bracing is your friend.

i was asking hustler about that. last time i checked 550 front / 300 rear / rb hollow front sway bar and no rear sway bar was just about as neutral as anyone would want.

I still question this no rear sway..... I have yet to run without one.
I thought all the AutoX'ers did this to get the car to rotate easier, which then becomes...well "not" nuetral.
I guess I should take mine off to see the difference.

I've been watching this as I just received my Tein Flex and FM sways. Debating on the rear and I think I will start with the Flex and FM front and leave the stock rear. Split the difference between no rear and stiffer rear.

Thoughts?

chassis flex

Yeah ultimately that is the answer. Just try it and see. It is easy to disconnect it and zip-tie it out of the way. If you like it, it is also easy to remove.