sway bars?
#1
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sway bars?
After doing some reading I've found most users have FM sways but what about cusco, godspeed those other shitty brands..... btw I'm looking to drift....I know spare me. also what is better tubular or solid? and should i jut upgrade front not rear or both? sorry for the dumb questions
#2
After doing some reading I've found most users have FM sways but what about cusco, godspeed those other shitty brands..... btw I'm looking to drift....I know spare me. also what is better tubular or solid? and should i jut upgrade front not rear or both? sorry for the dumb questions
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I figured as much, so should I get the stiffest rear with the adjustable endlinks to dial them in, or should I just get the front and rears w/endlinks? and as Far as cusco there Known in the ******* community as awesome **** but just upgrading the rear is all I'll need to do? If thats what route I'm taking?
#5
I figured as much, so should I get the stiffest rear with the adjustable endlinks to dial them in, or should I just get the front and rears w/endlinks? and as Far as cusco there Known in the ******* community as awesome **** but just upgrading the rear is all I'll need to do? If thats what route I'm taking?
#6
Cusco makes really really good products, but i would just go with FM bars you really cant beat the price to quality ratio.
I wouldnt worrie to much about endlinks enless your really worried about removing preload.
I think bars will be more then enough. I can get my miata sidways pretty easy already.
I wouldnt worrie to much about endlinks enless your really worried about removing preload.
I think bars will be more then enough. I can get my miata sidways pretty easy already.
#9
what is the rest of your suspension setup?
hollow swaybars are stiffer, but an adjustable solid would make more sense for dialing in the rate.
i have removed my rear sway altogether FOR GRIP, but i use 9kg F/6kg R springs over monotube dampers.
a larger FRONT bar isn't going to help you case without a larger rear bar.
good endlinks like gearhead's garage sells are a must.
hollow swaybars are stiffer, but an adjustable solid would make more sense for dialing in the rate.
i have removed my rear sway altogether FOR GRIP, but i use 9kg F/6kg R springs over monotube dampers.
a larger FRONT bar isn't going to help you case without a larger rear bar.
good endlinks like gearhead's garage sells are a must.
#12
I have solid Eibach sways on mine, 25mm front and 15mm rear, and RB endlinks. I really like the way it handles, of course. Don't know how it compares to the FM stuff.
A couple things caught my eye in this thread though...
"I wouldnt worrie to much about endlinks enless your really worried about removing preload."
Ever driven a car on old, stock endlinks and then swapped them for adjustable billet/poly or solid links? There is a difference.
"hollow swaybars are stiffer"
No. Given the same diameter, they absolutely are not. This is why every hollow bar you've ever seen is huge next to an equivalent rate solid bar.
A couple things caught my eye in this thread though...
"I wouldnt worrie to much about endlinks enless your really worried about removing preload."
Ever driven a car on old, stock endlinks and then swapped them for adjustable billet/poly or solid links? There is a difference.
"hollow swaybars are stiffer"
No. Given the same diameter, they absolutely are not. This is why every hollow bar you've ever seen is huge next to an equivalent rate solid bar.
#13
I have solid Eibach sways on mine, 25mm front and 15mm rear, and RB endlinks. I really like the way it handles, of course. Don't know how it compares to the FM stuff.
A couple things caught my eye in this thread though...
"I wouldnt worrie to much about endlinks enless your really worried about removing preload."
Ever driven a car on old, stock endlinks and then swapped them for adjustable billet/poly or solid links? There is a difference.
"hollow swaybars are stiffer"
No. Given the same diameter, they absolutely are not. This is why every hollow bar you've ever seen is huge next to an equivalent rate solid bar.
A couple things caught my eye in this thread though...
"I wouldnt worrie to much about endlinks enless your really worried about removing preload."
Ever driven a car on old, stock endlinks and then swapped them for adjustable billet/poly or solid links? There is a difference.
"hollow swaybars are stiffer"
No. Given the same diameter, they absolutely are not. This is why every hollow bar you've ever seen is huge next to an equivalent rate solid bar.
I ment the hollow RB bar is stiffer.
and for the endlinks if hes ******** the car does it really matter
#14
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Since he's looking to go sideways I don't think he needs to do anything with his front bar. A stiffer bar for the rear will increase the oversteer tendencies. So - leave the front alone, and get a stiffer rear bar.
#16
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That sounds like an excellent question for FM. I can't recall ever having seen a post about a broken rear NB sway bar mount, just the front. The sway bar reinforcement kits I've seen are always for the front. Keith's Miata Performance Projects book specifically calls out the front mounts as a known NB weak point with bigger bars but doesn't mention the rear mount point points. So ... I would venture to say the rear mounts aren't a problem. And now, we digress for the jokes about rear mount points !
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