Hire some immigrant laborers to help you. That's the only way to get it done right.

Living in Ca and working full time im already helping pay for thier 6 children to eat. Might as well get something out of them right?

I did a calibration check on all three of my HF torque wrenches (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2") and they were all within 5% of set value, even at the upper an lower limits it remained within 10% of the set value. My 1/2" was close to 8 years old at the time and had seen many track days, autocrosses, drops and falls and still worked great. For anything you are doing in your garage this will be fine. You will have a greater difference in clamping force on those bolts due to variances in friction on the different bolts and bolt holes.

My 3/8" torque wrench varied the most. I feel more comfortable using the 1/2" at the lower end of its range than using the upper end of the 3/8" wrench.

No, it's not. Numerous tests have shown those torque wrenches to be quite accurate. Certainly plenty good for the kindergarten shit you're doing.


Buy all three for under $50. Lose them whenever you want, since you don't seem to care enough about keeping track of a $100 tool.

link to coupon

Tried to post an image, but HF has it split into three sections. pita. Try link.

Don't be a pu$$y.

I use a torque wrench on everything. Even valve cover bolts. It satisfies my OCD.

Actually, VC bolts are a very good place to use one. I've seen them way over-torqued, which can warp the cover, causing leaks. It's only inch-pounds for those nuts.

I picked up a HF 3/8" torque wrench. Going to check it against a coworkers SnapOn before trusting it

When was the last time the SnapOn was serviced?

Truth. My VCs never leak.

There's a torque spec on the pressure plate bolts? I just tighten them till the washers are flat with some blue loctite.

I have a 1/4" drive inlb torque wrench I bought on amazon for $40 that I use for the valve covers and oil pans, and other inlb things. Its what I had to do to make them not leak. Then I've got a 3/8" drive crapsman bending beam for 3/8" drive torque stuff. And of course the 1/2" drive HF one for lugnuts and other stuff that dont need bending beam precision. Except for wheel bearings. Then I do the math to calculate the torque and stand on the correct point of the breaker bar because I'm tired of killing front wheel bearing from them being under torqued by the HF wrench.

I've never seen one of those in the store before. Damn.

They had 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" all on the shelf when I bought mine. As I remember, they were all priced at $11.99 each.

With coupon, of course.


Which they had laying next to the bin with the wrenches.

I broke mine when i tried to get the nut off the rear axle :facepalm:

You serious?? Stop being a bitch and use the tool you bought.

Wat? Torque wrench is for installing. Breaker bar is for removing, with Cheater Pipe (aka Jack Handle).

From the specs:

Product Length 33-1/2 in.

Damn, that's definitely a torque monster.

EDIT: apparently it only works in clockwise direction, but a reviewer mentioned you can disassemble and flip the head around for CCW torquing.

I know, didnt have a 3/4" breaker bar so i used the torque wrench. Hurray for 3 months return warranty. :fawk: