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Old 03-07-2010, 02:51 AM   #1
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Default Torsen swap almost done but I can't get the axles in.

I'm almost finished with my Torsen swap, but I can't get the damn axles in. The car is a 92 1.6 I've installed a 97 torsen with drive shaft. The axles have male ends on both sides, and slot into the hub and the diff. The Hub side is in, and flush. I've unbolted the top of the A-arms, and removed the brake caliper, but I still can't get the axles in.

Just for the record, I tried to unbolt the bottom of the A-Arm, but it wouldn't come undone. Any suggestions?

Before you ask yes I'm in a bit of a hurry to get this done.
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Old 03-07-2010, 02:56 AM   #2
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Prayer helps!! I got it.
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Old 03-07-2010, 04:11 AM   #3
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one-piece axles are kind of a bitch to work with. Love my 2-piece 94-95 axles.
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Old 03-07-2010, 05:03 AM   #4
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i had no probs with 1 piece axles, having dealt with both i like the 1 pieces! i have put in and taken them out several of times with ease! ya just gotta give em a nice good shove!
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WonTon View Post
i had no probs with 1 piece axles, having dealt with both i like the 1 pieces! i have put in and taken them out several of times with ease! ya just gotta give em a nice good shove!
Deadblow hammer ftw.
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:04 PM   #6
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You mean you can't get them in position to enter. I have always put the diff side in first; then the hub side.
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savington View Post
one-piece axles are kind of a bitch to work with. Love my 2-piece 94-95 axles.
+1
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:31 PM   #8
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I just finished my torsen swap as well. Im anxious to try the 3.9 T-F out, heh.

I had fun taking a torch to the bushings, especially the metal washer that was with the rubber castle bushing.

The axle wouldn't go in when I did one side, positioned up the other side and pushed it in, then the other slid right into place.

edit: zomg 500! two years and 500 posts, hah.
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:32 PM   #9
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Pink Floyd - Dark Side of the Moon.

"If you give them a short sharp shock, they won't do it again...."
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Old 03-07-2010, 02:38 PM   #10
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The miata performance book I was following said the diff side first. I'm not sure if it would have been any eaiser if I would have gone the other way. But I took off the top nut of the A-arm, and the 17mm on the bottom. I then was able to turn the 19mm on the bottom of the A-arm, and it allowed the hub to rotate down. After that it went much faster.

A torsen is almost a must, it seems almost like I added a few more pounds of boost, even though I'm running 4.10 now vs. 4.30. It also steps out insanely when boost comes on around a corner. It NEVER did at before.

The clutch is next, but based on how long that took me, I don't know if I want to tackle that on my own. But it should be here next week.

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Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
You mean you can't get them in position to enter. I have always put the diff side in first; then the hub side.
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:15 PM   #11
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Do your own clutch
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:15 AM   #12
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I have a couple of vacation days I need to use, so I going to spend one trying to get this done. I would hope if I get started in the morning, I might have it done by the end of the day. My only worries are getting the pressure plate off, and maybe getting the flywheel resurfaced.
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Old 03-11-2010, 02:15 PM   #13
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i had the same issue not too long ago, when i was doing my swap. Just stuff them as hard as you can and they are in as soon as they click.
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