Track Handling on an OEM suspension
 

Looking for some advice or experience on how to make the best handling package within limitations:

In the series we race in ANY non-OEM specification part from the original build of a base car from the factory is subject to a lap penalty. However, modifying the OEM parts is free. OEM specs for a 1994 are as follows:

154/97 lb/in springs
OEM Dampers with bump stops + top hats
19mm Front sway bar
11mm Rear sway bar

Current thought is to first replace the shocks with an "OEM repalcement" like KYB GR2 or more likely the Koni STR.T --- Any other OEM replacement shock we should consider? (Bilsteins are considered an aftermarket upgrade and incur a penalty as they are not on the base Miata unfortunately)

Second, we would be looking to remove a free coil or two on the springs in an effort to increase the spring rate and lower the car. We will also replace the OEM bumpstops with shortened ones.

Lastly, we are looking to drill a new hole up on the OEM front sway bar to shorten the torque arm length and essentially stiffen the system. Possibly removing the rear bar to bias towards slight understeer but preferably nuetral.

If you had to replace one part with aftermarket, what would it be (besides the shocks)? We are thinking the front sway bar

Thoughts or experience is welcomed, thanks in advance

You are going to be living on the bumpstops. That's what I'd do. The transition from soft OEM spring to hard rubber OEM bumpstop is nasty.

You can revalve stock shocks yourself using 10w40 or something. It's not a pretty process, but it's possible.

What's the AIV for the Miata?

I'm not looking forward to it, especially after going through several hours of testing/tuning with open rules to land on the suspension we ran at the end of this year at Road America, handled amazing!

With the new chump car rules his stock AIV is between $350-500 depending on what year miata he has. I believe everything he is wanting to do should not change the AIV.

$400 for the 1994, only thing we could possibly fit in the TCV is a front sway bar and it's a hefty $50 out of our cap at $500

A quick google has left me wanting, any leads I can follow to learn more?

I don't have any good resources on hand unfortunately for the shock revalving, but you basically just take a stock shock, drill it, drain it, fit a valve on it and fill it up with new oil, and then spend the better part of the day acting as a manual shock dyno pumping the shock by hand until it firms up.

I can't remember what the cost is for the sleeves and springs, but you might be able to get away with like $50 over (aka +2 laps) AIV by going with an eBay sleeve and springs and using your hand revalved stock shocks.

edit: Non-OE coil springs (including ‘coil-over’ kit): $20/corner
So technically you can get away having your car still come under $500 with this. You'll need to play with the spring rates to figure out what works with the stock sway bars or try to size up/down the rear to 11/12mm.

Convert to r-package?

Use honda civic bump stops?

If koni STRTs are legal just order a custom valved set.

Why do you shit up every thread about stuff that you have no idea about and nothing to contribute to? Whyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy yyyyyyyyyy

Intriguing, does changing the fluid viscosity affect the performance much? Trying to find any sort of dyno charts for something such as this...for most it's not worth the effort so they may not exist.

We had an eBay sleeve setup with Summit springs, but springs are now $80 and out of the question moving forward 2014-on

Every $10 over the $500 limit is a one lap penalty... rounded up. With the competition being as tight as it is, especially against the e30 and e36 crowd, we can't afford any laps.

Not allowed in chump car.

Might possibly be allowed, and or really cheap.

I have no clue is Koni STRT's would be legal or not, but I bet if you show up with konis and the techs notice them they will not be happy, even if they are "oem".

shuiend speaks the truth

An R-Package is "allowed" but will be assigned a starting value of "north of $600" for some un-holy reason. Conversions are not allowed however

Tirerack lists the STR.T Koni as an OEM replacement so I would assume they are allowed. Even so, are they the best option over the KYB GR2? Shaikh has posted in several threads that he prefers the performance of the GR2 over that of the Koni due to the Koni's weak damping curves and tendency to lose consistent performance via heat generation from their internal design. Anyone else have input?

I haven't had much time in front of the tech inspection, but the sleeves and coils are only $80, right? Or is it going to be $10/corner for a "non-OE suspension component"?

Correct, $80 on the springs/coils. Any other suspension component not already listed in the BCR is $10 each, like end links, top hats, etc. Wish it was $10 a pair...

What are team are you with? What region are you running in? We run the midwest area around Indiana

Not on any team (haven't driven since 2012) and Southeast. :v

I think it'd be worth the $20 hit to run the coilover setup because you will be able to change your spring rates to make your sway bars work. It's somewhat unfortunate that the Miata isn't competitive because it's so low in HP and so high in AIV.

Possibly, I'd like to explore every free option first. Most of the TCV budget will need to go towards power adders.

The Miata is very competitive in the SouthWest, particularly Texas. I agree though, it's doesn't seem that the new valuation is quite on par. We'll have to see how it pans out this season. We think we still have a very competitive package the way it's put together.

We may be at AMP this year, check out our website and let us know if you'd like to get back in the saddle!

I'm sorry I thought this was another one of those guys in that weird canadian racing leauge, where doring pretty much anything other than running stock was considered stock. I'm sure they got penalized for having less than half a tank of gas and taking a poop before racing if it wasnt in the factory manual.

I don't think that an extra 5-10hp is going to be worth the $100 of money you have to play with. I'd try to maximize on handling and just hope that the tracks don't have too many long straights.

Thanks for the offer.