Hi to all,

I just wrekked my clutch (It was an original one on my 1991 NA 1.6 equiped with a Greddy Turbo @ 5psi, so it whas sure to break sometime...only I hoped it would be not today...)

My goal, eventually, is to try to get around 200BHP out of the car and to run aprox 10psi

Does anyone have an idea what clutch I should/could buy? How much torque does she should be able to manage?
On the following link I found clutches going from 271Nm-485Nm...up til now these are the only ones who provide real figures of the maximum momentum

http://shop.12tune.com/zoek-op-onder...0&engine=18212

I see a wide variety on the internet going from 80$ to 750$, I'm sure that the 80$ ones are crap but I don't really see the need to put a 750$ clutch on my car as I plan not to go higher than 200hp, furthermore the clutch will be harder to deploy when she can handle more power...

Maybe you guys can give me some names of manufacterers with a good reputation?

I read that people put the flywheel of a 1.8 instead of the one from the 1.6: Can anybody tell me why?

Thanks in a huble 'noobing' way!

 

Get a 1.8 flywheel and a FM Level 1 clutch. That's the best clutch money can buy to suit your goals.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept=10

 

This is the only response that is needed.

 

As my previous clutch was one of FM's clutches, I can attest to the durability and driveability. Currently I am rocking a FM 10lb flywheel and Competition Clutch 6-puck ceramic. A bit harsh for most but I like it.

 

I've ran a formula 1 stage 3 clutch (ebay) on my 1.8 for about 6 month's for drifting and have had no problems with it. **** grips. And formula 1 has a kit with a 1.8 clutch and flywheel for like 300 i think.

If you are gunna be putting down some decent power I'd roll the 1.8 flywheel. I believe its got a larger surface area so more grip. But the 1.6 flywheel is lighter

 

Uh oh, somebody said the D word.

 

I ran an ebay clutch for a while as well, forgot what stage, but it was rated to 250tq. I loved the clutch, felt great, held fine at 210hp 190tq for a few thousand miles. I turned it up to 260hp 240tq and it let go immediately. I gave it to a friend who's running it in his stock car and it's holding fine. If you don't mind possibly having to do it again and aren't planning to push the rating limits ebay may not be a bad option, IMO.


I liked when that was censored, lol.

 

Believe me, I've gone from a F1 stage 2 to a used Spec Stage 3, and finally spent the money on a FM1 clutch, it is so worth it. I don't have to worry about it, I know that it will hold more than my engine can handle, and although I didn't mind the harshness of the SPEC 3, I think the 6 puck harshness did contribute to my failing 5 speed.

 

A clutch is something you want to do right the first time.

 

The new vogue in gears is to remove tranny and weld a stick to your cramshaft directly to the rer diff. More control and much sturdy

 

Control and sturdy....things you clearly had in mind when you grabbed the sawzall and cut into your frame rail

 

Which apparently is not the FM1 if you track a lot.

 

At 200hp it should be just fine forever.

 

Thx everyone !!

In fact, I don't have the urge to go over the 200hp as the roads here in Belgium are relatively narrow and curvy, so a smooth running engine with 180-200 useable HP will get you further than a 300Hp monster...

I got an offer today from FM: Sending it to Belgium + the Level 1 clutch would cost aprox 500$, witch looks quite reasonable and for sure less expencive than the ACT

So I think I will go for the FM1

Cheers!

 

It's not the power but the heat.

 

It's not very hot in Belgium. j/k

 

949 ceramic twin

 

Has anyone besides you confirmed this? I remember you posting about it a while back and I am curious if you found a solution.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....65&postcount=7
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....98&postcount=9

When I asked FM they said they've sold lots of clutches, but don't really have reports either way from miata turbo drivers that track frequently.


The solution will come in the form of a 4 puck. Just haven't gotten to changing it yet. The fm1 starts ok in the morning, but when it gets some heat into it, it slips. I've got a little 1.6, I'm not making Y8s torque here.

 

Ok , so no FM? But the ACT instead?

4 or 6 puck clutches do have the reputation of being "harsh" and rough to use with a lot of pedal resistance. So this seems ideal for race (ab)use. I need one that's smooth!

Surprises me that the FM 1 doesn't hold the torque, she is rated for 319ft/lb thats over 450Nm!! That's alot !! When I see that a standard Greddy makes "only" 170ft/lb and at 10psi it should turn around 240ft/lb ... strange