Needs pics of your Coolant Re-Route Route
 

I have the M-Tuned Coolant Re-Route, and it works great. The only thing is the Upper Radiator hose is in constant contact with my IC hose. Nothing major, but looks bad. I need some pictures of how you have your UR hose routed. I'm installing my mishimoto this weekend (70 and sunny ftw) and I want to get this taken care of. I have a few ideas, but was wondering how other people have done it. Thanks!

I'll snap some when I get home today.

boom! no contact ;) Custom FTW

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0099_large.jpg

http://img28.picoodle.com/img/img28/...im_079723e.jpg

http://img28.picoodle.com/img/img28/...rm_2920f4b.jpg

Thanks for the pictures. I think the only option is pretty much make a 90 degree left and then back 90 degrees and make a straight line for the rear of the engine. That is what I was thinking, but just making sure there wasn't some magical route that would make my life 100 times easier.

mine rubs ever so slightly...

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...nstall+011.jpg

I found the magical hose when I took a trip to advanced auto for my reroute supplies. It basically looks like an M but all 90 degree bends. I hacked off a V and ended up with a nice tight Z hose. I'll snap a pic and get the part number when I swing by the shop tonight.

That would be great, thanks!

Mine does not rub.

Attachment 198886

Gates part number shown.

I think for some reason my FM piping is further forward than all yours. I'm gonna go take a picture....

EDIT: No I'm not... my camera's battery is dead. But I swear you guys have more room.

There was room on that Z hose to cut it shorter, and that's on the long neck of a PWR radiator.

The hose is Dayco 71519. It seems to actually be a universal type hose and not for a specific vehicle as far as I can tell. As you can see if your piping clears the OEM fan this hose will clear. And there is probably room to cut it shorter too.

Attachment 198878

Attachment 198879

Am I the only one that just pivoted the stock upper radiator hose? Or do I have way more room since I'm going straight out of the throttle body for an over the radiator setup? I have pictures if you want them.

I cant believe i'm still on the 100% stock cooling system. I lack the will of a warrior.

Notice how all the pics in this thread are for 1.6 intake manifolds, not the 1.8's like ours. I just got home and its 12:20. I'll have to remind myself to take a pic tomorrow after work.

Not true, Doppelganger provided a helpful picture of his valve cover.

Here's the way mine looks. It's the hose that comes with the M-tuned kit and has the spring in there. The spring is about 4-5 inches from the end i would guess. I had to put a 2nd clamp there because it was crimping a little bit, but it didnt affect my coolant temps. I drove around for a while with it crimped a little bit and had 180* temps all the time. I put the 2nd clamp on there because others were concerned (I wasnt) and it looked bad like that. And YES, that is a smiley face on my radiator cap. My friend Eric did that.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8134606_n.jpg

And here's a pic of the engine bay:

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs419....9_391178_n.jpg

Sorry for the quality, but I snapped these pics quick with my blackberry before I went to work.

That is pretty much exactly how mine looks now... I just hate having it hit the tubing like that :/ Hopefully the Mishimoto doesn't make it worse.

Yea, the neck of the radiator is seriously right in front of the TB. I'm running a 2.5" 90* coupler on the TB. There's really not that much room there to play around with it. I also have a mishimoto radiator to put in there. Before I put it in, I might see if Tim would be able to move the neck or even angle it 45 degrees to the left.

<^> asshole

:giggle:


Here...

http://img2.pict.com/40/75/f9/167440...keradiator.jpg

what radiator be that Doppelgänger?

His is a PWR. I had a PWR and my reroute's upper radiator hose also rested on the intercooler/TB pipe. Annoyed me since the same thing happened with the old FMII kit and OEM upper radiator hose. Was going to have a 90* elbow welded onto the radiator so that it would clear, but never got around to it before parting the car.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0174_large.jpg

keep em coming!

My oh my, somebody knows how to use the flower button! :giggle:

I'll post these now since my internet is currently working (fingers crossed). I know it's an over the radiator setup, but it's the stock hose with an inch or so cut off each end, so you can get an idea for how much room it'll give you.

Attachment 198856
Attachment 198857
Attachment 198858

I have no clearance at all on my 1.8 with the BEGI up pipe and a Godspeed rad. The rad hose is squished against the IC pipe hard enough I used that coil stuff inside to keep the hose open. I shortened the rad inlet and the IC up pipe just to get to that stage with the big rad. I need to move the rad slightly forward some how and get these things some space. Hate the rubbing.

Wow I don't know what kind of drugs I was on when routed my shit... I thought I had it like most of the others posted on here... no, not at all.

http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/7033/dsc00298r.jpg

Here is mine, it runs on the other side of the motor, to avoid my supercharger.
Attachment 198780

I decided to use a piece of regular hose with bends that allow the rear portion to sit on the shelf. The thermostat itself (not in view in this photo) is actually right behind the shock tower brace. I wrapped old hose over any place where it might actually make contact with anything just to ensure it doesn't rub.

Attachment 198779

First it was like this...
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/5803/dsc00305c.jpg

Then it went like this...
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/658/dsc00306w.jpg

Quickly followed by this...
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/6785/dsc00307b.jpg
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/7125/dsc00308w.jpg
(The new hose I will be using once I get a tube to connect the rear hose with this one)
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/2931/dsc00311b.jpg

And then all the sudden it was like this...
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/9964/dsc00313pv.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1655/dsc00315r.jpg

Now I just need to build some shroud and I'm good.

Here is the first routing I had on my VVT car. But realized the hose was above the radiator so now it is shoved down below the intake. It's kind of in a U-shape though. The hose is too long and I need to cut it. I still need to get the air out of the system fully though because it is overheating for a minute on warmup before cooling back down.

http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/6519/engine1w.jpg

It's difficult to tell because of the angle of the photo, but it looks like that extra bend in your reroute hose is sitting in a high spot, perhaps even higher than the radiator cap? Air could collect there and make it difficult to bleed. Do like the rest of us and cut it down and bring it closer to the intake mani to eliminate that bent section. You want the rad cap to be the highest point in the system.

Cut off the end of the Radiator and re-welded another piece so the it bend and avoids the IC pipe....no rubbing My engine bay is a MESS, for this, I apologize.

Yes, it is the highest point right now. I bent it down so that the hump is below the intake manifold right now. I will probably go pick some more coolant up this weekend and take that hose off, cut it, and fully "burp" the system. Back up, then front up, right? It still is heating up now, but only to about 230 before it drops instead of off the gauge. It is low enough that the stock gauge doesn't move out of it's regular position

Thread necromancy....
 

So you guys that used a pipe to connect a short hose at the radiator to the longer hose coming from the back; two questions:

1. What did you use for the pipe?

2. Did you weld a bead on the pipe ends to keep the hoses on?

I used a copper pipe with screw on fittings soldered on and slipped the rubber hose on the screw on fittings with a bunch of thread sealant on them. I'm returning the coolant from my stock oil cooler to another fitting off the copper pipe as well.

Thanks to a local forum member, the pipe used on my reroute pictured above was a 14" piece of aluminum pipe, polished, beaded on the ends, and had a 1/4" NPT bung welded on with a 1/4" NPT to 5/16" barb fitting for the throttle body coolant return line (you can see this near the front of it on the underside).

This is an old build picture:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0159_large.jpg

That's nice. A bit more elaborate than my needs though. I'm thinking of maybe trying to find a 32mm inline coolant sensor adaptor and using that if I can't find something suitable at Lowe's /Home Depot, or NAPA.

I've since moved to this setup:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...t=reroute+hose

With my heater core return and coolant sensor in a piece spliced into the lower hose.

I picked up a pipe from the hardware store, cut that shit, and beat the fuck out of it till there was a lip on each end. I had no problems with it.

pics?

I thought I posted here. Using djp0623's hose. Might have to add an inline t-stat this summer.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._8380976_n.jpg

The more I think about it the more I want to switch to the hose (and most likely will). Less failure points. If you still want to go the tubing and elbow route I can send you a length of pipe to make yours with seeing how I still have like 5' of the shit.

What're you guys using on the back of the head?

Kia Sephia t-stat housing from the junkyard.

I use the front 1.8L housing flipped and a spacer.

The kia housing doesn't allow me to user the stock coolant temp sensor location and I have COPs so there are no coils in the way.

So that's it, just the Kia water neck? No sorcery with the heater hoses, etc?

Well, I have the M-Tuned reroute. My problem is that my Ron Davis radiator has a long inlet for the upper hose and I only have about an inch between that and the charge pipe at the throttle body.

I picked these up last night. The 7" hose with the 2 90* bends perfectly goes around the charge pipe but I have to connect the two hoses. The pipe is a 6" pipe from the plumbing section at Lowe's and is threaded on each end.

The end that will go into the M-Tuned hose should go in far enough that it shouldn't pose a problem with a couple of clamps on it. What I need to figure out how to do is flare or bead the other end (preferably both ends, really) without access to a welder. I'm thinking that the threaded portions might provide enough grip to keep the whole thing from leaking or coming apart, but I'd really like some sort of flare or bead for peace of mind.

Ultimately I may end up buying a Blox or Mishimoto inline coolant temp sender piece to join the hoses.

http://www.advancespeedshop.com/blox...k-p-10645.html

It looks more secure and probably a little nicer. I could even throw a temp sensor in there for the MegaSquirt - though it won't see any cold water ever - or just plug it.

You need to put a 1/2" fitting into the spacer for the heater hose. You also have to cut a lip into the spacer so the tstat has a place to sit.

I used a 1.6 upper water neck for mine. I put a plug in the fitting on the top and cut the fitting down as much as I could to get clearance between the reroute and firewall. I then put the temperature sensor into the spacer and was able to use the setup with standard 1.6 coils mounted onto a 1.8 via the fm adapter.

The Kia waterneck (part # 0K24715172A) and used a fitting in the spacer to retain the heater core hose, the spacer also had a threaded port drilled for the temp sensor.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0136_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0129_large.jpg

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...6+10_01_05.jpg
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...1+19_53_56.jpg
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...2/DSC_0053.JPG
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...2/DSC_0054.JPG
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...2/DSC_0055.JPG

You have a fan switch with the MS? Newb. And what's the lower barb for?

I also used the 1.6 housing. Milled down and welded the fan switch hole. Roughly ~.3" clearance to the firewall.

noob, that's the oem coolant sensor. then a secondary coolant sensor for his gauge.


pretty sure I had him remove the lower barb, he was going to use that for the heater core return. Bu ti had him return back to in front of the water pump.

...or you can put the heater hose/temp. sensor housing on the front of the motor and extend the temp sensor/heater hose to the front and not need the spacer on the back.

I will do some more explaining on this picture. It is a Begi spacer, I have 3 coolant temp sensors in it. One sensor for MS, one sensor for stock coolant temp gauge, one sensor for digital coolant gauge. The lower barb was just put in for test fitting, it is no longer there. The one barb that is left goes to my front lower radiator hose.
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...1+19_53_56.jpg

Your MS uses your oem sensor. come on silly.

Did I say otherwise? Stock there are 2 coolant temp sensors. I simply added a third one for my digital gauge.

what?! no way.


look at the pic I took before we put it in. 2 senders. 1 oem, one for gauge.

Are you referring to the two wire sensor for ms and the one wire sensor for the cluster? If not are you thinking of the sensor that was on the front of the engine? If so that one was originally a fan control that ms doesn't need.

I have at the back of my engine 3 coolant temp sensors. 1 is the OEM sensor that is 2 wire and goes to the stock ecu/MS. The second one is a single little prong that goes to the coolant gauge in my gauge cluster, I believe this is actually in my head, not in the space. Then my third sensor goes to my VEI oil/coolant temp gauge.

he has a 94. there was no front switch. he's talking about the sensor for the gauge cluster...but that's on the head, not the spacer.