Upgraded Bolts/Hardware
 

Hi everyone,

Thought I'd like to share this.. It's a good (very good) idea to upgrade the bolts that come with the GReddy Kit:


Turbo to Manifold: (FM Part numbers)
4 of - Stud 8x1.25 (36-10331)
4 of - Lock Nut 8x1.25 (36-20120)
4 of - Washer, SS 8mm (36-30130)

Downpipe:

3 of - M8 x 1.25 x 35mm
1 of - M8 x 1.25 x 30mm (for under curve of DP)

Hope this helps some people out!!

Oil Supply/Return Fittings
 

Supply:

M10x1.25 banjo bolt

Source

Return:

Alot of people drill and tap the oil pan (a la the FM2 kit) for the oil return on the GReddy turbo.. Flyin' Miata does offer a 'kit' for this.. But, with this kit, the FM hose is a smaller ID and you must use adapters to bring down the size..

You do not need the FM kit.. I drilled, tapped, and used a 3/4" hose barb (actual hose size is 19mm).. I figured its best to use the same (and larger) size all the way to the pan..

I sourced the fitting from NAPA off the shelf.. Don't remember the part number off hand.. It was a 1/2" NPT 3/4" barb, a metal fitting silver in color, not brass or nylon..

Hakuna's Oil Pan Guide

FMII Install Manual (shows oil pan drilling)

Is drilling the pan better then going off the block near the oil filter?

Yes..

1. It is a shorter, more direct route..
2. Don't have to worry about pooling..
3. Don't have to worry about the hose catching on anything (like drive belts) :eek:

ok heres the deal lol
i ordered the jdm 1.6 which will be here friday
and my only car right now is the miata so i was thinking if i was to drill the oil pan and get the fitting and run a line up and plugg it off you think i would be ok ? if its better to have it drilled i rather do that and figured i would pull the pan and drill it to make sure theres no metal in the pan ????
be easy to do with the motor out of the car!!!
anyone ?? lol kinda scary i know


also if i get that fitting . does the hose from the kit fit it? or do i have to get another hose

There are more GReddy's not drilled to the pan, than one's that are. If you have P/S, and A/C, it is hard to drill the pan due to room.

<~~~ Been using the stock GReddy kit routing for over 13,000 miles now with zero problesm. Also I did spend the money on the Tap, Bit, and Barb (not cheap BTW) to drill my pan over a year ago. Took a look at it, and said 'foget about it' no way am I getting in there to drill the pan.

see thats my point lol
my motor is out of the car on a stand. and i was thinking about pulling my oil pan off to clean out the sludge build up and sand blast the bottom of the pan so it looks oh so cool =0)
with the pan off i could put it on a bridge port and drill it out no prob (work has bits and taps so thats free)

Sounds like a plan, especially since you have reason to pull the pan anyway. Just make sure of the position of the hole so that you will be able to get the fitting and hose to pass the A/C and P/S and be able to disassemble the line and fittings after everything is in place if you need to.

i removed my a/c so no worries there :bigtu:

just like to know which barb/ fitting to buy that will work with the line from the greddy kit or do i just get a new line ????

The hose that comes with the kit is 19mm (3/4")..
I used a barb off the shelf from NAPA..

For my first oil pan drilling, used a 3/4" fitting from NAPA. Did that one in place with AC. Used a stubby unibit to start the hole, and got it to proper size by twisting in the proper drill bit by finger power. The hose was really snug pushing that one on!

For the second one had the engine out so dropped the pan and did it. Used a 5/8" fitting from Home Depot for $1.92. Can look on my pages under Greddy II to see how I did it to include the part number. http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/commun...pid=224302&ck=

Prior to tossing the old cracked oil pan away, I did a test polishing on part of it to show neighbor how easy it was to polish aluminum. Have a photo of it somewhere, but not digital. Why half step with sand blasting?

As to the studs and nuts needed suggest NAPA as the best place to start. Grade 8 or higher is good but if going with metric ratings, want to find at least Class 10 hardness. May be able to have everything right in your hand in a minute. If unable to locate the shorter ones, go with longer ones and cut them down to size. If you do that, suggest getting a couple extra nuts to ruin by chasing down the cuts.