Upgraded Bolts/Hardware - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Useful Saved Posts Useful info, FAQs, anything you don't want to get purged.

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-31-2005, 08:30 PM   #1
I'm Miserable!
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 39
Total Cats: 0
Default Upgraded Bolts/Hardware

Hi everyone,

Thought I'd like to share this.. It's a good (very good) idea to upgrade the bolts that come with the GReddy Kit:


Turbo to Manifold: (FM Part numbers)
4 of - Stud 8x1.25 (36-10331)
4 of - Lock Nut 8x1.25 (36-20120)
4 of - Washer, SS 8mm (36-30130)

Downpipe:

3 of - M8 x 1.25 x 35mm
1 of - M8 x 1.25 x 30mm (for under curve of DP)

Hope this helps some people out!!
xcsx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2005, 12:19 PM   #2
I'm Miserable!
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 39
Total Cats: 0
Default Oil Supply/Return Fittings

Supply:

M10x1.25 banjo bolt

Source

Return:

Alot of people drill and tap the oil pan (a la the FM2 kit) for the oil return on the GReddy turbo.. Flyin' Miata does offer a 'kit' for this.. But, with this kit, the FM hose is a smaller ID and you must use adapters to bring down the size..

You do not need the FM kit.. I drilled, tapped, and used a 3/4" hose barb (actual hose size is 19mm).. I figured its best to use the same (and larger) size all the way to the pan..

I sourced the fitting from NAPA off the shelf.. Don't remember the part number off hand.. It was a 1/2" NPT 3/4" barb, a metal fitting silver in color, not brass or nylon..

Hakuna's Oil Pan Guide

FMII Install Manual (shows oil pan drilling)
xcsx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 05:22 PM   #3
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Warwick RI
Posts: 77
Total Cats: 0
Default

Is drilling the pan better then going off the block near the oil filter?
RAIN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 05:59 PM   #4
I'm Miserable!
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 39
Total Cats: 0
Default

Yes..

1. It is a shorter, more direct route..
2. Don't have to worry about pooling..
3. Don't have to worry about the hose catching on anything (like drive belts)
xcsx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 09:08 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Warwick RI
Posts: 77
Total Cats: 0
Default

ok heres the deal lol
i ordered the jdm 1.6 which will be here friday
and my only car right now is the miata so i was thinking if i was to drill the oil pan and get the fitting and run a line up and plugg it off you think i would be ok ? if its better to have it drilled i rather do that and figured i would pull the pan and drill it to make sure theres no metal in the pan ????
be easy to do with the motor out of the car!!!
anyone ?? lol kinda scary i know


also if i get that fitting . does the hose from the kit fit it? or do i have to get another hose

Last edited by RAIN; 02-02-2005 at 09:11 PM.
RAIN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 10:31 PM   #6
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Elk Grove, Ca.
Posts: 188
Total Cats: 0
Default

There are more GReddy's not drilled to the pan, than one's that are. If you have P/S, and A/C, it is hard to drill the pan due to room.

<~~~ Been using the stock GReddy kit routing for over 13,000 miles now with zero problesm. Also I did spend the money on the Tap, Bit, and Barb (not cheap BTW) to drill my pan over a year ago. Took a look at it, and said 'foget about it' no way am I getting in there to drill the pan.
White Roadster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2005, 05:26 PM   #7
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Warwick RI
Posts: 77
Total Cats: 0
Default

see thats my point lol
my motor is out of the car on a stand. and i was thinking about pulling my oil pan off to clean out the sludge build up and sand blast the bottom of the pan so it looks oh so cool =0)
with the pan off i could put it on a bridge port and drill it out no prob (work has bits and taps so thats free)
RAIN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2005, 05:32 PM   #8
AFM Crusader
iTrader: (18)
 
olderguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,438
Total Cats: 84
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RAIN
see thats my point lol
my motor is out of the car on a stand. and i was thinking about pulling my oil pan off to clean out the sludge build up and sand blast the bottom of the pan so it looks oh so cool =0)
with the pan off i could put it on a bridge port and drill it out no prob (work has bits and taps so thats free)
Sounds like a plan, especially since you have reason to pull the pan anyway. Just make sure of the position of the hole so that you will be able to get the fitting and hose to pass the A/C and P/S and be able to disassemble the line and fittings after everything is in place if you need to.
olderguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2005, 05:48 PM   #9
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Warwick RI
Posts: 77
Total Cats: 0
Default

i removed my a/c so no worries there

just like to know which barb/ fitting to buy that will work with the line from the greddy kit or do i just get a new line ????
RAIN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2005, 05:57 PM   #10
I'm Miserable!
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 39
Total Cats: 0
Default

The hose that comes with the kit is 19mm (3/4")..
I used a barb off the shelf from NAPA..
xcsx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2005, 11:58 PM   #11
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 90
Total Cats: 0
Default

For my first oil pan drilling, used a 3/4" fitting from NAPA. Did that one in place with AC. Used a stubby unibit to start the hole, and got it to proper size by twisting in the proper drill bit by finger power. The hose was really snug pushing that one on!

For the second one had the engine out so dropped the pan and did it. Used a 5/8" fitting from Home Depot for $1.92. Can look on my pages under Greddy II to see how I did it to include the part number. http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/commun...pid=224302&ck=

Prior to tossing the old cracked oil pan away, I did a test polishing on part of it to show neighbor how easy it was to polish aluminum. Have a photo of it somewhere, but not digital. Why half step with sand blasting?

As to the studs and nuts needed suggest NAPA as the best place to start. Grade 8 or higher is good but if going with metric ratings, want to find at least Class 10 hardness. May be able to have everything right in your hand in a minute. If unable to locate the shorter ones, go with longer ones and cut them down to size. If you do that, suggest getting a couple extra nuts to ruin by chasing down the cuts.
Pop VII is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need help - Stock Balancer and Fastforward overlay pulleys Frank_and_Beans Supercharger Discussion 13 09-12-2016 09:17 PM
UEFI boot help needed mgeoffriau Gaming 38 03-02-2016 04:59 PM
Mazdaspeed 2.0L C-Spec ITB motor w/ accessories graexodus Miata parts for sale/trade 9 10-25-2015 04:34 PM
MS PNP requires reading and following directions??? satisfied MEGAsquirt 141 10-06-2015 11:44 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:37 AM.