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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1182780)
the stock ignition harness had one
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1182959)
Toyota or Mazda?
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I've had 3 NB1 harnesses apart, both ignition/injection and ECU side and I can tell you with pretty solid certainty that there is no cap in the stock harness for 99/00. I also have a pair of NB2 ignition/injection harness and again, no cap. I've also got a complete 04 MSM harness in the garage (literally every wire in the car) and no caps in there either.
I'm not calling you a liar, I'm just saying from my personal experience I've not seen any caps. I'd love someone to prove me wrong. |
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Is it actually a cap? It looks to small to be of any use for power drop, but I could see it as some sort of filter to keep ignition noise out of the rest of the harness.
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My '96 does not have that.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1183088)
Is it actually a cap? It looks to small to be of any use for power drop, but I could see it as some sort of filter to keep ignition noise out of the rest of the harness.
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Originally Posted by Oscar
(Post 1183180)
Don't know, was a genuine question;)
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Condensor is automotive speak for a capacitor in the ignition system.
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Originally Posted by bahurd
(Post 1183188)
Any idea what the wire colors are on the connector? Wiring diagram shows a 'condensor' for 2001+ NB cars that has a 2 wire connector.
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So its a capacitor for the coils. The end. All miatas have it.
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So if they already have one, adding another one will surely make it better?
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1183259)
So if they already have one, adding another one will surely make it better?
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Can you all check my work for me, putting LS2 coils on a 1.6 DIYPNP.
Going to move ECU 2I to the MS Tach out, then splicing white/black at the igniter to the yellow/blue tach wire. If I'm not mistaken, this will drive the tach off the MS without having to run any extra wire. I'm curious if the tach will be more accurate this way, but it's probably the tach itself that makes it inaccurate, right? Either way, if you butcher a igniter to make a PNP solution this should work and be easily reversible. Then, it's as easy as wiring in batch just like COPS. Reading has lead me to believe it's safe to wire all the coil grounds together. Is it true the signal ground of the coils is for misfire detection only? I guess you could easily use some of the evap purge valve wiring as a new signal ground, but is it worth the trouble, and hacking? I plan on adding capacitors as documented on the first page, a large cap on the voltage to the coils, and two smaller capacitors on the trigger wires. The wiring diagram I have for my 1.6 does show a capacitor in the mix, and I already have them around so I've nothing to loose. Here's what I came up with to hold the things in the stock location. At an angle, because the 45deg boot ends are cheapest and I've got more clearance for a reroute if I ever get around to it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416770307 |
Originally Posted by deezums
(Post 1184728)
Can you all check my work for me, putting LS2 coils on a 1.6 DIYPNP.
Going to move ECU 2I to the MS Tach out, then splicing white/black at the igniter to the yellow/blue tach wire. If I'm not mistaken, this will drive the tach off the MS without having to run any extra wire. I'm curious if the tach will be more accurate this way, but it's probably the tach itself that makes it inaccurate, right? Either way, if you butcher a igniter to make a PNP solution this should work and be easily reversible. Then, it's as easy as wiring in batch just like COPS. Reading has lead me to believe it's safe to wire all the coil grounds together. Is it true the signal ground of the coils is for misfire detection only? I guess you could easily use some of the evap purge valve wiring as a new signal ground, but is it worth the trouble, and hacking? I plan on adding capacitors as documented on the first page, a large cap on the voltage to the coils, and two smaller capacitors on the trigger wires. The wiring diagram I have for my 1.6 does show a capacitor in the mix, and I already have them around so I've nothing to loose. Here's what I came up with to hold the things in the stock location. At an angle, because the 45deg boot ends are cheapest and I've got more clearance for a reroute if I ever get around to it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416770307 |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1185521)
I just switched to coil over plugs and to run the tach all you need to do is splice the black and white wire to the blue and yellow and then put a resistor between -IG and B+ in your diag box.
The grounds and the signal grounds were paired together. The giant capacitor was the only odd thing that was added to the harness. I'm using a MS1 in wasted spark configuration. I use the stock wires but used the Taylor ends from Summit Racing on the coil side and shortened the high tension leads to match my needs. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417095884 I need to take pics of the finished product. |
8 Attachment(s)
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I was reading over some wiring diagrams and that make sense. 96-97 (and maybe 94-95 but I don't remember) already have a Tach out pin on the ECU. But the 90-93 tach is connected straight to the coils.
EDIT: Just checked. 94-95 has tach out too. |
thats actually the tach in pin on the 94-95.5. it takes the tach signal off the coils to determine if the engine is running or not. yeah, its weird. Without that connected the car will only run for like 10 seconds then stall.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1185594)
thats actually the tach in pin on the 94-95.5. it takes the tach signal off the coils to determine if the engine is running or not. yeah, its weird. Without that connected the car will only run for like 10 seconds then stall.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwhkvztuco...-ms3x.jpg?dl=0 |
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