2012 BMW 528i - Inline 4 turbo
 

http://green.autoblog.com/2011/07/01...nd-start-stop/

notable:
cliffs: faster and 15% better gas mileage.



wastegate actuator appears to be larger than compressor:

http://www.blogcdn.com/green.autoblo...r-cylinder.jpg

that intercooler looks like a great piece for a Miata

260tq @ 1200rpm :drool:

tire shredder for sure with tq peak that low!!!

who drives around at 1200rpm?

I've always been pro big turbo and still stand by my beliefs. One of the few on here that have always told people to go big/bigger.

But effortless low rpm torque/acceleration feels fantastic in a daily driver. Key being "daily driver". My current daily drier fxt is in the meaty chunk of its torque curve by 2500-3500 and I'm loving every minute of it. Quiet, effortless, drama free pushes you back in the seat. Feels good man.


Otherwise its useless I agree.

I know, but even my DD (09 mazda2), doing 30 MPH in 5th is over 1200 rpm. When am I ever gonna be down that low in the rev range that I need all my torques? I have the habit of not lugging the engine below 2k-ish. Don't get me wrong, I think they've built a decent motor, but I'd be far more happier with a load of torque between 2.5-4k.

if your emphasis is specifically on the 1200 then I agree: that's super low and shifting it to say 2-4 would be perfect.

I bet the spark table looks funky.

That not much output for such a heavy car though. I suppose they're expecting the electric motors to move the car rather than the engine. It almost brings a tear to my eye though, we're watching the death of the internal combustion engine as we know it.

18psi did you mod your fxt? I enjoy my fxt low end grunt. 2.5L has something to do with it too. The engine sounds absolutely horrible above 6000rpm though. Sounds like its going to die and power is so feeble.

The turbo they put on that car is so small.

Also, if it sounds like rattling death, compression test #4.

No rattling, just vrooooo ehhhhhh wheeze

I'm starting to. Right now I wanted to see what I can do with just tuning and no mods.
This is BONE STOCK with a re-tune focusing on low end. (map untouched past 5k)
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...tage108fxt.jpg

this weekend the downpipe and 3"to2.5" adaptor are going in and with a retune it will have a healthy 270wtq and 215whp.

Then exhaust and retune which should net 280wtq and 240whp.

After that I have:
APS ss45 20g
turboxs tmic
gimmick inlet
ID1000 injectors
gs 3port
and a few other things going on and should end up with 330-350whp and 350-400wtq @ 20-22psi on e85.

GET ON MY LEVEL SON:D

Did you touch fuel or timing? Just adjusted the boost target map?

Also, does the FXT have a built in wideband?

Its a tuned map. Not just spiked boost settings, that's the kinda dumb shit that will make you blow the (already very fragile) subaru ringlands.

Fuel untouched
boost smoothed and up 1psi peak
timing maps redone
avcs maps redone
cl/ol delays zerod
throttle input sharpened

The car is COMPLETELY different now. The difference is amazing, I'm serious. All this while BONE STOCK and running SAFER than stock (again, not kidding).

no built in wideband. That's a myth

Here's a simple stage2 I tuned:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...stage2dyno.jpg
Just downpipe and exhaust and very conservative timing on 91oct.

Here's what a good tuner does on the same setup with e85:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Makadidyno.gif

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2192189

Very impressive IMHO

I have an '06 FXT. Want to spoon feed me some info on how to get a good reliable stage 2 setup, preferably cheap? I don't trust myself tuning my daily driver.

catless 3" bellmouth downpipe of your choice (forum classifieds are packed with these)
true 3" cat back exhaust of your choice (forum classifieds are packed with these)
tactrix cable (or the vag-com knockoff, though I dont have personal experience with those)
learn how to flash maps and log with the free opensource software like ecuflash/romraider
then contact me and I can send you a good base map:)

So what do you do when it's OBD2 emissions scan time? I'm guessing if you still have the factory 02 sensors in place everything will be happy?