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Yikes... Doesn't sound good. Especially since they aren't slamming their cars into apexes at high rates of speed.

I have three sets of Keizer's.

A set of 13s that have been bullet proof.
A set of 15s that I have had about a year and a half with no problems.

And a set of 15's that I had them make as light as possible back in May of 2007. They just started to show some signs of cracking on the outer rim halves. When they made them they used material that was .125 thick (remember I asked for as light as possible) I just bought new outers that are .160 I can report back in another three and a half years and let you know if 28% thicker material lasts longer, but I think it will.

*Note, I only autocross the car, so no apex curb hopping for me.

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Chris, thanks for the info... Know of anyone with apex slamming experience with the thicker version?

A Miata broke a magnesium Kiezer wheel a couple weeks ago in Dallas. Unusually, it broke the center out, not the spun rim. Admittedly, it was 10+ years old with unknown maintenance and had been through a number of owners before the Miata. It broke in the middle of a turn, not on a pothole or curb.

Attachment 194552

Attachment 194553

dupe

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Yikes... That sucks.

Rise, rise mighty thread, rise from the dead...

So Bob, I know you ruled out steel wheels, but would the extra weight really be that detrimental? Not trying to be argumentative, just looking for more information as I am considering tires/wheels for next year's road racing as well. I know less weight is better of course, and why. Less mass, less rotating inertia, less unsprung weight. But, practically speaking, is it really that bad adding 2-3 lbs? Does it just make the car more unpleasant, or does it translate into real lap time reduction?

I know one guy locally that is running 275/35/15 slicks on 'lightweight' 15x10 steel wheels on his V8 Miata and he seems to be happy with them. That being said, he was not happy at all on his big tires about the bumpiness of a local track known for being very bumpy. I have driven on it myself in my LS1 Miata with 225/45/15 NT01s on 15x8 6ULs on a Koni Race 700/400 suspension. It is indeed pretty damn bumpy in one section. But that is just that one track. The others around here are much smoother.

Steel wheels aside, I agree that the 15x10 spinwerks wheels look like a great balance on cost and performance assuming they will fit over 11.75" rotors. I wonder if RPW or Spinwerks would be up for a group buy and what kind of discount they would give? Offhand I think maybe 4-6 sets could be sold here and on m.n, maybe more.

I am pretty happy with the NT01 225/45/15 costs and longevity. But if I get into NASA TT next year, which is quite possible, then having some fat hoosiers for the glory lap would be great. I think the plunge is inevitable. I have raced on sticky slick race tires on bikes and the additional grip is fantastic stuff.

So you hold the record in that car? It shouldn't be hard.

If his car is getting upset over the bumpiness of the track that could be caused by the extra weight of the steel wheels, he would probably notice more traction over the bumps with a lighter wheel.

DAMN! That freakin scary.

FWIW I think the 275 Hoosers are almost 3 lbs per tire lighter than 225 Nittos. I think most 15X10 steel wheels are over 20 lbs that I have seen though even the light ones. That is getting up there where I suspect there could be some drop off in suspension, brake, and acceleration performance. I've never tried anything that heavy though.

Bob

15x10 with a 6" backspacing at 12 lbs 2.4 oz

Barely fits 1.6 brakes, so oversize BBK need not apply.

http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/v...a/SNC10637.jpg

Since this is back from the dead I'll give my experience. I'd stay away from Kodiaks. We've had several sets of wheels made by them and 1) They just refuse to listen when you tell them what you want. We've had to ship back a bunch of inner hats because they weren't made to the spec we gave them. Some we had to refuse more than once, 2) We got a set that were clearly damaged during manufacture (large gashes in rim, no damage on boxes) but they just shipped them out anyway. They did eventually make good on all of the above, for what it's worth.

For what they charge for them, they should be better.

That is a deal breaker for serious track use.

theres always these wheels, although there a little pricey.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...15944100-1.jpg
The baddest new wheel for you racers is here! Our Exospeed STAR8 is a full forged 3 piece wheel. It consists of spun forged wheel halves with a forged center piece. All wheels are fully polished to a high luster. Price is per wheel.

Design: STAR8

Size: 15x10

Backspace: 5"

Lug Style: 4x100, Dual lug style - Acorn and Shank

Approximate Wt: 11 lbs

MSRP: $465.00 each
Applications:

•88-00 Civic/ Integra (exc. ITR)
•Corolla
•Miata
•Nissan Sentra SE-R
•VW
* Popular sizes are IN STOCK ready to ship. Some sizes and backspace are custom order and only takes 2-3 days to manufacture.



Model: STAR8-151054100
Shipping Weight: 20lbs



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Those look nice.

A 15X10 with a 5" backspace and 275's will have issues with the tire hitting unibody structure on the back side of the front wheel opening at full steering lock. That is a little more work than cutting fenders and adding flares. Might could get away with limiting some turn angle but I think something that works out to be about a 20mm offset is what you want about a 6"-6.25" backspace.

Bob

this is good info to know!

so a 10" wide wheel in front with a 5" backspacing will have issues but with a 6" - 6.25" backspacing should clear?

http://www.HondaMarketplace.com/show....php?t=2851623

read this first.......

When I took the spring off and did articulation studies it looked like an ET of 15 - 20 was the narrow range that would work right on AN NA with that wide of tire to me. Anything else would compromise wheel cut or bump travel without doing allot more hacking than just the fender lip. What that works out too in backspace measurement varies by wheel manufacturer. The inside lip width seems to vary from ~1/4" to 5/8" depending on manufacturer then there is some manufacturers like Kodiak that measure backspace from the inside of the lip furthering the confusion. If they would all use ET it would be allot easier to figure out where the tire ends up relative to the hub.

Bob

LOL, first i've seen this post. I am the current owner of these wheels and was driving when the failure happened (interesting ride, glad it was ax and not track).

The age of the wheels was unknown, however the maintenance was not. When I purchased them used, they were 13x8. I packed them up and shipped them to Keiser requesting that they refurbish them and make them 13x9 in the process.

The wheels were put through some ax and NASA time trial events (tws,msr-c, hallett) and rode their fair share of curbs.

Keiser said they were older style magnesium centers and they have since changed them. Obviously there was no warranty, however they were very accomodating on options and prices for replacemet centers. They say their alum centers are stronger, but not as light (these are retarded light).

Overall, I'd not run the magnesium centers on roadcourses unless you are well under 2000 lbs, like some open wheel or radical type car.

For ax, they are badass light and fun.