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-   -   6UL Wheel Studs (https://www.miataturbo.net/wheels-tires-78/6ul-wheel-studs-58289/)

Nate99 06-05-2011 10:50 PM

6UL Wheel Studs
 
Is everyone using the stock length wheel studs with their 6ULs? I got new open-end lug nuts last week, and noticed there isn't as much thread engagement as my fancy-pants education says there should be (3-4 threads past the end of the nut). There's still a good amount of thread engagement though.

I ran them at the track this weekend with no issues, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything. Should I get longer studs? Or stop being paranoid?

Pic of what I'm talking about:
http://i55.tinypic.com/mlmcy9.jpg

kotomile 06-05-2011 11:47 PM

I haven't installed them yet, but I ordered some from these guys:

https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php

No problems on the stock studs, but with the TSE brakes and 5mm spacer I'll want/need longer ones.

chpmnsws6 06-05-2011 11:49 PM

ARP studs for a 93-02 F-body work real well.

kotomile 06-05-2011 11:55 PM

^ That's not a bad idea either. And I bet you could get those locally since muscle parts are so much easier to come by than aftermarket Miata stuff.

dgmorr 06-06-2011 10:55 AM

Are you running a spacer or something? My studs are a bit longer than that, and they are stock.

jeff_man 06-06-2011 03:36 PM

http://www.slapyo.com/wp-content/wrong04.jpg

don't have this problem in my 99.

Tim Irwin 06-06-2011 04:46 PM

There should be at least 1/2" of thread engagement (8-10 turns?).

Nate99 06-07-2011 03:00 AM


Originally Posted by jeff_man (Post 735087)
http://www.slapyo.com/wp-content/wrong04.jpg

don't have this problem in my 99.

:dunno: I'm not running any spacers or anything. The only thing I can think of is that the aftermarket rotors might have a thicker center section than OEMs. Anything else that could affect this?

curly 06-07-2011 03:52 AM

3-4 threads past the nut is too much, don't expect that. A clOsed nut couldn't go the far obviously, why would an open one (with stock studs)?

How many turns on your old nut vs. the new ones? Fancy pants education didn't tell you to check that?

olderguy 06-07-2011 09:00 AM


Originally Posted by Nate99 (Post 735306)
The only thing I can think of is that the aftermarket rotors might have a thicker center section than OEMs.


This

shlammed 06-07-2011 11:08 AM

Your fine.

if the nut was a closed end it would be the same length outside. you leave room inside the nut to not bottom the stud on the cap of a closed lug so you get the proper torque on the wheel face.

Nate99 06-07-2011 06:53 PM


Originally Posted by curly (Post 735309)
3-4 threads past the nut is too much, don't expect that. A clOsed nut couldn't go the far obviously, why would an open one (with stock studs)?

That's kind of what I had been thinking, but I just wanted to get some confirmation.


How many turns on your old nut vs. the new ones? Fancy pants education didn't tell you to check that?
Fancy pants education did tell me to check that, laziness told me I could do it later. :D

chpmnsws6 06-08-2011 11:03 AM

I like NHRA's ruling for quick checks when walking around the car. A half inch stud has to stick past the nut one half inch. No rubber valve stems either, only the bolt together type.

Faeflora 06-08-2011 11:29 AM


Originally Posted by kotomile (Post 734847)
I haven't installed them yet, but I ordered some from these guys:

https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php

No problems on the stock studs, but with the TSE brakes and 5mm spacer I'll want/need longer ones.

I have the same brakes and spacer and 6UL 15x9s.

Are these the studs to get?

"New Design Speed Tip Stud - 2.75” (fits all model FRONT and 1.6 rear)"

Also, is everyone running stock hubs?

chpmnsws6 06-08-2011 11:32 AM

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7713/

If you want the speed tips.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7708/

If cheap is the name of the game.

Front hubs are stock, rear are from Miataroadster.

Faeflora 06-08-2011 12:10 PM


Originally Posted by chpmnsws6 (Post 735789)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7713/

If you want the speed tips.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7708/

If cheap is the name of the game.

It says neither have speed tips! You're trying to triiiiick me!

chpmnsws6 06-08-2011 02:08 PM

Looks like I fail at life. Go with the cheap ones. I have them and they work great.

kotomile 06-08-2011 02:37 PM

949 sells the ARPs too.

FaeFlyper - Those are the ones I got, my 1.6 car has a 1.6 rear hub. YMMV.

IHI 06-08-2011 04:15 PM

The rule for steel bolts/nuts:
You should get the diameter of the stud as a length for the thread.
For aluminium this is 1,5x the diameter.
That gives maximum strength.
Allthough this is for normal thread. Rolled threaded nuts are stronger.
I'd take the diameter as a minimum though.

wildo 06-09-2011 11:23 AM


Originally Posted by Faeflora (Post 735805)
It says neither have speed tips! You're trying to triiiiick me!

The F-body type might fit in the hole, but they aren't the correct size. The knurl diamater and length is different from the Miata-specific part numbers. They also do not have "speed tips".

According the ARP's catalog, both of the Miata part numbers have 0.350" nose length. I prefer the bullet speed tips, but ARP doesn't make them, and this type (non-threaded end with slightly rounded corners) is good enough.

These are the ones you want, and they are available at Summit too:

100-7719 Miata, front and rear (1990-93) & front (1994-05) 4 pack

100-7720 Miata, rear (1994-05) 4 pack

I have been waiting 3+ months for a set of Applied Racing Tech 1.8 rear studs and am about to cancel the order and pick up the ARP's.

Faeflora 06-09-2011 02:39 PM

Oh fuck I just ordered the ART studs. They'd better ship them... I need them naow..

Faeflora 06-10-2011 10:32 AM



Nope ART is backordered. Ordering ARP.

kotomile 06-10-2011 12:20 PM

Weird. Must just be the 1.8 ones. I got mine in like a week.

Faeflora 06-10-2011 02:44 PM


Originally Posted by kotomile (Post 736360)
Weird. Must just be the 1.8 ones. I got mine in like a week.

Correct. 1.8rears are backorderedesdedzedssa

wildo 06-14-2011 01:55 PM

For what it is worth...very odd.

I ordered two sets of 1994-2005 rear studs from Summit. Same order, same part number, just quantity of "2".

Both arrived with the same part # and packaging.

One set has bullet-shaped "speed tips", the other set has rounded-off square tips.

They otherwise appear to be exactly the same.

http://www.miata.tv/post/ARP_100-7720_sm.jpg

http://www.miata.tv/post/ARP_Tips_sm.jpg

Pitlab77 06-14-2011 02:23 PM

are you sure they are the same. The thread and pitch look different on that photo

wildo 06-14-2011 03:50 PM

Yes, the threads and pitch are the same. I threaded a lug nut onto each.

I called ARP. They couldn't tell me which one is the newer version, but they did suggest that it is likely that one design superseded the other, perhaps due to a tooling change.

I'm going to check the dates on the back of the package next time I have them in my hands.

For what it is worth, the old ARP studs I have are the squared-off type.

kotomile 06-14-2011 04:13 PM

The ARP studs I had on my CRX years ago were the squared-off type, FWIW.

ace75 06-16-2011 04:56 PM

For the rear wheel studs, were you able to hammer them out after removing the calipers only or was it much more involved? Thanks.

curly 06-16-2011 10:21 PM

I would think the rounded ends are the newer version. As an ex-machinist, they're "harder" to make, but only for the actual CNC machine. Hardware is pumped out fairly quickly, because of they're inherint high quantity. One lathe does all the work. Turns it to size, threads it, knurls it, "V" shaped chamfer on the end to look like this: \_/, then cuts it off in the middle of that groove, leaving a chamfer on either end. Once it falls off, the machine feeds more bar stock forward and starts over again. Depending on the machine, they'll usually have a couple feet of bar stock sticking through the chuck, and out the back of the machine.

Kind of like this, although the simpler (aka less quantity) machines usually don't rotate the part, they rotate the tools:


Anyways, my point is only some of the newer CNC machines are capable of turning a spherical surface like that, so my guess is that those are the newer ones, with the machinist showing off a bit, since it's fairly unnecessary.

kotomile 06-20-2011 08:07 AM

Good analysis there, Curly.

FWIW, if anyone's interested in the ART studs, Karl is on vacation until 1 July. Just got back to me about rear studs for mine.

vehicular 07-05-2011 12:04 PM


Originally Posted by IHI (Post 735866)
The rule for steel bolts/nuts:
You should get the diameter of the stud as a length for the thread.
For aluminium this is 1,5x the diameter.
That gives maximum strength.


This is standard engineering practice. Any more engagement isn't going to buy you more strength, just more time to change tires.

chpmnsws6 07-05-2011 12:11 PM


Originally Posted by vehicular (Post 745127)
This is standard engineering practice. Any more engagement isn't going to buy you more strength, just more time to change tires.

And pass tech.

SmokeSR 07-08-2011 04:24 PM


Originally Posted by kotomile (Post 739545)
Good analysis there, Curly.

FWIW, if anyone's interested in the ART studs, Karl is on vacation until 1 July. Just got back to me about rear studs for mine.

What did he tell you about the rear studs? I've been waiting since Winter. I've emailed him a few times lately with no response. Maybe he extended his vacation or is sick of me asking him for updates.

circuitmstr 07-11-2011 06:33 PM

https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php

this guy has some really good and affordable studs. alot of spec miata guys use them

hustler 09-28-2011 09:12 PM

After owning a few different studs and nuts, get the 949s. I also recomend burled Camaro studs from Jeg's. They're black too, like my heart.


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