6UL Wheel Studs
Is everyone using the stock length wheel studs with their 6ULs? I got new open-end lug nuts last week, and noticed there isn't as much thread engagement as my fancy-pants education says there should be (3-4 threads past the end of the nut). There's still a good amount of thread engagement though.
I ran them at the track this weekend with no issues, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything. Should I get longer studs? Or stop being paranoid? Pic of what I'm talking about: http://i55.tinypic.com/mlmcy9.jpg |
I haven't installed them yet, but I ordered some from these guys:
https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php No problems on the stock studs, but with the TSE brakes and 5mm spacer I'll want/need longer ones. |
ARP studs for a 93-02 F-body work real well.
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^ That's not a bad idea either. And I bet you could get those locally since muscle parts are so much easier to come by than aftermarket Miata stuff.
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Are you running a spacer or something? My studs are a bit longer than that, and they are stock.
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There should be at least 1/2" of thread engagement (8-10 turns?).
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Originally Posted by jeff_man
(Post 735087)
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3-4 threads past the nut is too much, don't expect that. A clOsed nut couldn't go the far obviously, why would an open one (with stock studs)?
How many turns on your old nut vs. the new ones? Fancy pants education didn't tell you to check that? |
Originally Posted by Nate99
(Post 735306)
The only thing I can think of is that the aftermarket rotors might have a thicker center section than OEMs.
This |
Your fine.
if the nut was a closed end it would be the same length outside. you leave room inside the nut to not bottom the stud on the cap of a closed lug so you get the proper torque on the wheel face. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 735309)
3-4 threads past the nut is too much, don't expect that. A clOsed nut couldn't go the far obviously, why would an open one (with stock studs)?
How many turns on your old nut vs. the new ones? Fancy pants education didn't tell you to check that? |
I like NHRA's ruling for quick checks when walking around the car. A half inch stud has to stick past the nut one half inch. No rubber valve stems either, only the bolt together type.
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Originally Posted by kotomile
(Post 734847)
I haven't installed them yet, but I ordered some from these guys:
https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php No problems on the stock studs, but with the TSE brakes and 5mm spacer I'll want/need longer ones. Are these the studs to get? "New Design Speed Tip Stud - 2.75” (fits all model FRONT and 1.6 rear)" Also, is everyone running stock hubs? |
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7713/
If you want the speed tips. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7708/ If cheap is the name of the game. Front hubs are stock, rear are from Miataroadster. |
Originally Posted by chpmnsws6
(Post 735789)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7713/
If you want the speed tips. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7708/ If cheap is the name of the game. |
Looks like I fail at life. Go with the cheap ones. I have them and they work great.
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949 sells the ARPs too.
FaeFlyper - Those are the ones I got, my 1.6 car has a 1.6 rear hub. YMMV. |
The rule for steel bolts/nuts:
You should get the diameter of the stud as a length for the thread. For aluminium this is 1,5x the diameter. That gives maximum strength. Allthough this is for normal thread. Rolled threaded nuts are stronger. I'd take the diameter as a minimum though. |
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 735805)
It says neither have speed tips! You're trying to triiiiick me!
According the ARP's catalog, both of the Miata part numbers have 0.350" nose length. I prefer the bullet speed tips, but ARP doesn't make them, and this type (non-threaded end with slightly rounded corners) is good enough. These are the ones you want, and they are available at Summit too: 100-7719 Miata, front and rear (1990-93) & front (1994-05) 4 pack 100-7720 Miata, rear (1994-05) 4 pack I have been waiting 3+ months for a set of Applied Racing Tech 1.8 rear studs and am about to cancel the order and pick up the ARP's. |
Oh fuck I just ordered the ART studs. They'd better ship them... I need them naow..
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Nope ART is backordered. Ordering ARP. |
Weird. Must just be the 1.8 ones. I got mine in like a week.
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Originally Posted by kotomile
(Post 736360)
Weird. Must just be the 1.8 ones. I got mine in like a week.
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For what it is worth...very odd.
I ordered two sets of 1994-2005 rear studs from Summit. Same order, same part number, just quantity of "2". Both arrived with the same part # and packaging. One set has bullet-shaped "speed tips", the other set has rounded-off square tips. They otherwise appear to be exactly the same. http://www.miata.tv/post/ARP_100-7720_sm.jpg http://www.miata.tv/post/ARP_Tips_sm.jpg |
are you sure they are the same. The thread and pitch look different on that photo
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Yes, the threads and pitch are the same. I threaded a lug nut onto each.
I called ARP. They couldn't tell me which one is the newer version, but they did suggest that it is likely that one design superseded the other, perhaps due to a tooling change. I'm going to check the dates on the back of the package next time I have them in my hands. For what it is worth, the old ARP studs I have are the squared-off type. |
The ARP studs I had on my CRX years ago were the squared-off type, FWIW.
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For the rear wheel studs, were you able to hammer them out after removing the calipers only or was it much more involved? Thanks.
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I would think the rounded ends are the newer version. As an ex-machinist, they're "harder" to make, but only for the actual CNC machine. Hardware is pumped out fairly quickly, because of they're inherint high quantity. One lathe does all the work. Turns it to size, threads it, knurls it, "V" shaped chamfer on the end to look like this: \_/, then cuts it off in the middle of that groove, leaving a chamfer on either end. Once it falls off, the machine feeds more bar stock forward and starts over again. Depending on the machine, they'll usually have a couple feet of bar stock sticking through the chuck, and out the back of the machine.
Kind of like this, although the simpler (aka less quantity) machines usually don't rotate the part, they rotate the tools: Anyways, my point is only some of the newer CNC machines are capable of turning a spherical surface like that, so my guess is that those are the newer ones, with the machinist showing off a bit, since it's fairly unnecessary. |
Good analysis there, Curly.
FWIW, if anyone's interested in the ART studs, Karl is on vacation until 1 July. Just got back to me about rear studs for mine. |
Originally Posted by IHI
(Post 735866)
The rule for steel bolts/nuts:
You should get the diameter of the stud as a length for the thread. For aluminium this is 1,5x the diameter. That gives maximum strength. This is standard engineering practice. Any more engagement isn't going to buy you more strength, just more time to change tires. |
Originally Posted by vehicular
(Post 745127)
This is standard engineering practice. Any more engagement isn't going to buy you more strength, just more time to change tires.
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Originally Posted by kotomile
(Post 739545)
Good analysis there, Curly.
FWIW, if anyone's interested in the ART studs, Karl is on vacation until 1 July. Just got back to me about rear studs for mine. |
https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php
this guy has some really good and affordable studs. alot of spec miata guys use them |
After owning a few different studs and nuts, get the 949s. I also recomend burled Camaro studs from Jeg's. They're black too, like my heart.
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