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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 10:50 PM
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Default 6UL Wheel Studs

Is everyone using the stock length wheel studs with their 6ULs? I got new open-end lug nuts last week, and noticed there isn't as much thread engagement as my fancy-pants education says there should be (3-4 threads past the end of the nut). There's still a good amount of thread engagement though.

I ran them at the track this weekend with no issues, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything. Should I get longer studs? Or stop being paranoid?

Pic of what I'm talking about:
Old Jun 5, 2011 | 11:47 PM
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I haven't installed them yet, but I ordered some from these guys:

https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php

No problems on the stock studs, but with the TSE brakes and 5mm spacer I'll want/need longer ones.
Old Jun 5, 2011 | 11:49 PM
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ARP studs for a 93-02 F-body work real well.
Old Jun 5, 2011 | 11:55 PM
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^ That's not a bad idea either. And I bet you could get those locally since muscle parts are so much easier to come by than aftermarket Miata stuff.
Old Jun 6, 2011 | 10:55 AM
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Are you running a spacer or something? My studs are a bit longer than that, and they are stock.
Old Jun 6, 2011 | 03:36 PM
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don't have this problem in my 99.
Old Jun 6, 2011 | 04:46 PM
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There should be at least 1/2" of thread engagement (8-10 turns?).
Old Jun 7, 2011 | 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by jeff_man


don't have this problem in my 99.
I'm not running any spacers or anything. The only thing I can think of is that the aftermarket rotors might have a thicker center section than OEMs. Anything else that could affect this?
Old Jun 7, 2011 | 03:52 AM
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3-4 threads past the nut is too much, don't expect that. A clOsed nut couldn't go the far obviously, why would an open one (with stock studs)?

How many turns on your old nut vs. the new ones? Fancy pants education didn't tell you to check that?
Old Jun 7, 2011 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Nate99
The only thing I can think of is that the aftermarket rotors might have a thicker center section than OEMs.

This
Old Jun 7, 2011 | 11:08 AM
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Your fine.

if the nut was a closed end it would be the same length outside. you leave room inside the nut to not bottom the stud on the cap of a closed lug so you get the proper torque on the wheel face.
Old Jun 7, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
3-4 threads past the nut is too much, don't expect that. A clOsed nut couldn't go the far obviously, why would an open one (with stock studs)?
That's kind of what I had been thinking, but I just wanted to get some confirmation.

How many turns on your old nut vs. the new ones? Fancy pants education didn't tell you to check that?
Fancy pants education did tell me to check that, laziness told me I could do it later.
Old Jun 8, 2011 | 11:03 AM
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I like NHRA's ruling for quick checks when walking around the car. A half inch stud has to stick past the nut one half inch. No rubber valve stems either, only the bolt together type.
Old Jun 8, 2011 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by kotomile
I haven't installed them yet, but I ordered some from these guys:

https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php

No problems on the stock studs, but with the TSE brakes and 5mm spacer I'll want/need longer ones.
I have the same brakes and spacer and 6UL 15x9s.

Are these the studs to get?

"New Design Speed Tip Stud - 2.75” (fits all model FRONT and 1.6 rear)"

Also, is everyone running stock hubs?
Old Jun 8, 2011 | 11:32 AM
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7713/

If you want the speed tips.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7708/

If cheap is the name of the game.

Front hubs are stock, rear are from Miataroadster.

Last edited by chpmnsws6; Jun 8, 2011 at 02:42 PM.
Old Jun 8, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by chpmnsws6
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7713/

If you want the speed tips.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7708/

If cheap is the name of the game.
It says neither have speed tips! You're trying to triiiiick me!
Old Jun 8, 2011 | 02:08 PM
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Looks like I fail at life. Go with the cheap ones. I have them and they work great.
Old Jun 8, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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949 sells the ARPs too.

FaeFlyper - Those are the ones I got, my 1.6 car has a 1.6 rear hub. YMMV.
Old Jun 8, 2011 | 04:15 PM
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The rule for steel bolts/nuts:
You should get the diameter of the stud as a length for the thread.
For aluminium this is 1,5x the diameter.
That gives maximum strength.
Allthough this is for normal thread. Rolled threaded nuts are stronger.
I'd take the diameter as a minimum though.
Old Jun 9, 2011 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
It says neither have speed tips! You're trying to triiiiick me!
The F-body type might fit in the hole, but they aren't the correct size. The knurl diamater and length is different from the Miata-specific part numbers. They also do not have "speed tips".

According the ARP's catalog, both of the Miata part numbers have 0.350" nose length. I prefer the bullet speed tips, but ARP doesn't make them, and this type (non-threaded end with slightly rounded corners) is good enough.

These are the ones you want, and they are available at Summit too:

100-7719 Miata, front and rear (1990-93) & front (1994-05) 4 pack

100-7720 Miata, rear (1994-05) 4 pack

I have been waiting 3+ months for a set of Applied Racing Tech 1.8 rear studs and am about to cancel the order and pick up the ARP's.



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