Originally Posted by thumpetto007 (Post 1529917)

I understand that people on this website really like to band wagon, and I am aware you are just making a joke for a nice pat on the back... but I'm going to comment anyways.

I shift pretty fast. Its why I broke stuff...miata roadster shift bushing and side shifter inserts, shift linkage set screw came loose, every single FM clutch I tried slipped during reengagement with 130whp...etc. Vlad has been in car during 1-3 chirping, I cant remember if I did a 4th gear chirp with him in the car. IIRC we had looked at the shift times, and they were around 1 tenth clutch in clutch out.

I mean, I can forward you the email Inertia Labs sent me explaining how the seal is not stainless, and wasn't designed to withstand inclement weather or the road salt that comes with it. (stainless seal is very expensive, but can be added at your cost during a rebuild) Emilio also confirmed this. Not sure if you read the PSA thread I made.

Giken isn't a locking diff. I thought it was. That's why I was pissed when I would still get stuck lifting a wheel on my own driveway. I'll be selling the full diff combo including puddy mod hardware and delrin diff mounts if you'd like to see what happens first hand.

If you have never lived in southern utah, it's kind of hard to know what cars have to endure. It can hail literally any time of year (I've lived at 6000 and 8000ft) Have a freeze thaw cycle any time of year (at 8000ft) its a high desert climate where a steady 30mph wind is commonplace, making dust and debris a real issue (impossible to keep a clean car for more than 1 day) roads are in poor condition (and are salted usually november to april), not as bad as Michigan roads,but in my 12 mile daily commute, there are more than 10 patched potholes that still are huge divets. There is actually a city council meeting next week to try and improve our local roads, since motorcyclists have died from hitting potholes. Because of frequent flooding, there are ~6inch deep channels down EVERY street, even normal cars, and vans scrape their bumpers going in and out of entryways. So, a combination of salt, dust, low humidity, and severe suspension travel multiple times per day, yeah, a RACE shock doesnt stand a chance. Hence why I've had to rebuild Xidas TWICE.

Originally Posted by matrussell122 (Post 1529560)

You could do boost by gear and tune turn it up in each gear until you get wheel spin then back it down just a touch.


Disclaimer: I haven't ever tried boost by gear I just see some benefit to it.

Originally Posted by thumpetto007 (Post 1529917)

I understand that people on this website really like to band wagon, and I am aware you are just making a joke for a nice pat on the back... but I'm going to comment anyways.

I shift pretty fast. Its why I broke stuff...miata roadster shift bushing and side shifter inserts, shift linkage set screw came loose, every single FM clutch I tried slipped during reengagement with 130whp...etc. Vlad has been in car during 1-3 chirping, I cant remember if I did a 4th gear chirp with him in the car. IIRC we had looked at the shift times, and they were around 1 tenth clutch in clutch out.

I mean, I can forward you the email Inertia Labs sent me explaining how the seal is not stainless, and wasn't designed to withstand inclement weather or the road salt that comes with it. (stainless seal is very expensive, but can be added at your cost during a rebuild) Emilio also confirmed this. Not sure if you read the PSA thread I made.

Giken isn't a locking diff. I thought it was. That's why I was pissed when I would still get stuck lifting a wheel on my own driveway. I'll be selling the full diff combo including puddy mod hardware and delrin diff mounts if you'd like to see what happens first hand.

If you have never lived in southern utah, it's kind of hard to know what cars have to endure. It can hail literally any time of year (I've lived at 6000 and 8000ft) Have a freeze thaw cycle any time of year (at 8000ft) its a high desert climate where a steady 30mph wind is commonplace, making dust and debris a real issue (impossible to keep a clean car for more than 1 day) roads are in poor condition (and are salted usually november to april), not as bad as Michigan roads,but in my 12 mile daily commute, there are more than 10 patched potholes that still are huge divets. There is actually a city council meeting next week to try and improve our local roads, since motorcyclists have died from hitting potholes. Because of frequent flooding, there are ~6inch deep channels down EVERY street, even normal cars, and vans scrape their bumpers going in and out of entryways. So, a combination of salt, dust, low humidity, and severe suspension travel multiple times per day, yeah, a RACE shock doesnt stand a chance. Hence why I've had to rebuild Xidas TWICE.

Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1529607)

So will pretty much any 200tw 205 at 300hp if your car isn't set up like a bag of dicks.

Originally Posted by DeerHunter (Post 1530236)

Going by theory, there should be no straight-line traction benefit for wide vs. narrow tires of the same compound and construction. In fact, for acceleration and braking, it's arguable that the long and narrow tire patch of a narrow tire should be beneficial compared to the shorter & wider patch of a meatier size.

Originally Posted by Savington (Post 1530259)

X275 and Radial vs The World would like a word with you.

Originally Posted by DeerHunter (Post 1530268)

words

Originally Posted by Savington (Post 1530311)

words

Originally Posted by DeerHunter (Post 1530236)

Going by theory, there should be no straight-line traction benefit for wide vs. narrow tires of the same compound and construction.

Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1530317)

I'm gonna tease because he didn't say that wider tires don't make a difference. Nobody did. <3 <3 <3 <3 <3

I know due to current political climate everything is read as the most extreme possible permutation of what was written, even if it means reading something that wasn't. And then responding as such. But literally... he just plain old didn't say that.

Originally Posted by DeerHunter (Post 1530236)

there should be no straight-line traction benefit for wide vs. narrow tires of the same compound and construction.

Originally Posted by 1RMDave (Post 1530005)

I think I have some more tuning to do. I'm using detcan to tune my timing, no knocking yet but I'm only running 10* total at 240kpa. My compression is 8.6:1 and I'm on 94 octane. I pumped it up to 20psi on the weekend, and with my old worn ass rt615k in 40* weather I am getting some wheel spin in 3rd from a roll depending on surface and no possibility of wheel spin in 4th. Keep in mind this is with a 5 speed, 6 speed is in the garage and hasn't been installed yet.

Originally Posted by andyfloyd (Post 1530350)

For sure you should be able to get to the 15* range pretty easily. I am running 8.5 wisecos on 93 octane and dont get knock @230kpa with 16* total 12* ramping to 16-17* up top. This with a small GT2560R thats blowing hot air by that time as well. My turbo makes all its steam in the 3700-6000rpm range where it will hold 18-19psi. I didnt use detcans, just using the stock knock sensor with the Hydra amplifying the signal. Plugs always look really good, no knock retard to speak of, knock ramp looks good too.

I just got done driving around tonight 71* today and my car will spin 3rd but its not the kind of spin that just rolls to redline, you can stay in it and itll spin but youre still getting forward motion, once I pass 5500rpm it starts hooking after the tq peak.