skidude

iTrader: (3)

I have a set of 15x8 6ULs from the first run, and the finish is cracking, allowing the aluminum to oxidize or whatever it does. The wheels look like they have cobwebs all over them, and you can't clean it because it's under the clearcoat.

So anyway, what would be the best way to bring them back to like-new? I love the painted center with polished lip, but I'm afraid that if I strip the wheel and re-polish the lip with any kind of compound, clear paint won't stick and I'll have the same problem in a year. I left bare metal on a polished lip when I painted stock daisies a bunch of years ago, and the it only looked good for a couple days after I would spend hours polishing.

Another question is why the finish would be cracking all over my wheels (it's all four, not just one or two) after only 4 years of summer use on the street and autocross.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Clear powder coating in a low-temp oven.

It's a damn shame they're 8's or I'd buy them off you on the cheap.

doward

What kind of cleaner did you use on them? Brake pad compound?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I have 6ULs from the very first batch. The nickel finish is still flawless. I've only used soap and water to clean them.

Boris

iTrader: (1)

Sand paper and a rattle can ?

curly

iTrader: (25)

http://949racing.com/15x8-6ul-nickel.aspx

Sorry, had to.

Show us some pics maybe? Might help us determine if it's beyond saving.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Race Collins brakes and rain means scraping them clean with a credit card. It was not fun, and I'm tired of the rain.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

I meant to get some pictures last night, but I forgot and now I won't be back home until after Thanksgiving.

I have only ever cleaned them with soap and water. I did use some kind of wheel cleaner once, but they were already screwed up by then so that didn't cause it.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

It's 2011, get a telephone with a camera.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

I have one of those, but it doesn't help when the car is at home and I am not at home. iPhones are pretty good, but they can't get around that problem just yet. Good try though.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Your avatar is winning.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Yeah I'm on HP+. Street car, and it doesn't see rain.

I had a second set of 6UL for the track car. Sold them to buy a new set of 15x9. Then 949 sold out of the black 15x9. So it's on stock wheels still.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

For my daily driver, I wanted a non stock color. I chose Ford T8 Tungsten gray and had a local automotive paint supply shop mix and put it in an aerosol can. Another can of two part epoxy clear coat and the wheels look very nice. Paint can is $15-25 depending on what you get. Two part epoxy clear was $28, a bit overkill but worth it if you want a super durable and glossy finish.

Several online sources for custom paint in a spray can.
Just got a can of Fiat 026 orange for touching up Crusher for this place http://www.automotivetouchup.com/

If your paint gets eaten by brake dust and road salt, an old trick is to heavily wax your wheels.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

That looks really nice. Is that a staggered setup?

Epoxy as a clearcoat, got it. Do you have any suggestions on how to get the epoxy clear to stick to polished aluminum? I'm afraid metal polish will leave a residue, and anything I use to remove that will oxidize the aluminum.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

You're trolling, right?

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

15x9. No idea on the other question. Maybe try the professional paint store.

falcon

iTrader: (13)

sandpaper.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

I would have been VERY surprised if it were staggered, but the angle makes the rears look wider than the fronts. I had to ask.