ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Looking for an NC1 or NC2 in decent working condition. Hoping to get something with a 6 speed so no base models. Higher miles okay as long as there's no rust and the paint looks okay.

I'm in PA but would be willing to have something shipped out to me if the price is right. Not in a rush, but just poking around for something fun to drive.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

That didn’t take long.

borka

iTrader: (1)

Is this going to be your new more practical daily? Lol

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Daily is a recently purchased 2011 V6 Rav4. Thing is awesome.

This is just going to be something to get into autocross and track stuff with, without all the headache and worry of a heavily modified car.

Dyladjent

Just wait until you see how easy a 2.5 swap is. A stock fusion 2.5 will make 100 more hp than your old car easily haha.

When my brother was looking for his PRHT we had good luck at dealerships around the area. There weren't many private sales and we ended up driving a couple hours to South Carolina but he wanted a very specific car. I don't know what the situation in PA is but there are tons of reasonably priced NCs here in AL just sitting around used lots.

I know you said you don't want to "heavily" mod it but the NC2s and 3s have better rotating assemblies. But with a junkyard 2.5 being 400ish$, that's relatively minor.

We all knew it wouldn't take too long.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I don't think his old car made 70whp.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

Multiple that $400 over a few times because you'll have to replace it a few times to find a good one. Source: Multiple 2.5NC swap owners

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I found a complete base model with blown suspension and 160k miles locally for 5100. The body is in pretty great condition with no rust. Soft top has a small tear but doesn't leak (i drove it in the rain) and I could just tape it up temporarily. Paint is pretty good. Did I mention no rust? I'd just need to find some take off suspension for starters or look for better used suspension. Plan would be to drive it for a bit and decide if I wanted to keep it or flip next year. I'm hoping I wouldn't lose much money on it if the market keeps going this nutty way.

Other option was to get a car from down south and have it shipped here or buy a friend a one way flight there and have him drive it back, but the one car I found that looked good turned out to be a salvage/rebuilt title after I ran the VIN. Seller seemed genuinely shocked and didn't blow me off after so I think he was blown away too. Needless to say, I wasn't going to pay 6k for a rebuilt car...maybe 3-3.5k? But yeah. Not really interested in messing with it.

Still a bit unsure what to do for now. Thinking of just picking the local base up. I don't really care that it's not fancy and for the cost differential, I'm sure I'd be able to pay for the 6 speed and LSD swap down the way. Also looks like not all GT cars have the LSD so paying more for one is almost like rolling the dice. Bummer you can't just look up the vin and find the spec. I think you have to call mazda with it.

Plan for the car was to do a 2.5 swap down the way. I don't really think I want to play with boost again till I'm a better driver. The specs on the car I sold is available in the cars for sale forum. It was a 330hp NB with a built motor, lots of chassis bracing, and running a 2871.

mreakus

I thought about going this route until I got a solid deal on a NA with hardtop and no rust from my neighbor for $3K. I drove an NC and just didn't want that for track duty.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Hah you're a local-ish. Cool! That car is probably worth like 2-3x what you paid for it. Oof!

This is mostly just going to be a street car that'll likely see some autocross and a rare track day.

I really like the NB but I just felt ready for something else. I'd also semi consider an MR2 Spyder or a FRZ86 (heh) but the prices for those are a fair bit higher. I'm honestly looking for a 'tweener car so to speak till I can get into something I want to keep longer. That 5k car with no rust and good paint will probably hold value decently enough in this market no?

Gee Emm

Interesting.

Around here the NC is about 1-2 secs faster (on a close like-for-like) basis, depending on circuit. But NA/NBs preferred for high HP turbo builds.

And as far as I am aware, the 2.5 swap donors here are pretty good. What is the problem requiring having to try a few to get a good one?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Motors seem to explode at a higher frequency than is desirable, but the most common clue seems to be cars that struggle to make 180hp.

Dyladjent

The 2.5 out of a (non?){<---still researching} hybrid fusion comes with forged rods and is good for over 400 without opening the block(with a bit of positive pressure). I read every page of his old build thread haha. If you can find one in decent shape which I concede is a headache in itself. I don't care for the naturally aspirated side much myself but I know the 2.5 NCs have been making noise at the Grid Life events lately


+1 for the 86 I tell everyone that it's the most practical not practical small car you can buy. The back seats lay down and you can fit a full set of track tires and tools with a passenger in the car. We've hauled everything around in our FRS from a 65" flatscreen to 4 miata wheels with tires and 4 loose tires to get them changed for my turbo car.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

They've been making noise because they've proven not to be the most reliable. Oil control is a real issue with these motor. One car went through 6 motors last year (junkyard, new crate, and built motors) even with an Accusump installed. Motor number 7 is a built 2.4L motor with an "expensive *** oil pan" he helped develop and has been doing fine for a few races now. Even THEN he's not pushing the numbers that he expected. He was just testing intakes and ITBs a few weeks ago and didn't crest 225whp. Even cars running drop in oil baffles are seeing oil pressure drops under heavy breaking which are concerning for motor longevity. Long story short, the 2.5MZR is the easiest swap into the NC work wise, but its not god's motor solution to make 200whp.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Oh, so by "stock" you meant "shitload of money around a $400 motor" hahaha.

There's 1.6s that made nearly 400whp unopened, too. *shrug*

Gee Emm

Thanks for that elaboration. Maybe I am not as plugged into the 'making boats go faster' scene as I thought - we don't have the variety of engine sources you have, but I highly doubt ours are of generally better quality/different/better than yours.

Dyladjent

By stock I did mean unopened. I agree that the 2.5 isn't the end all by any means. That's why for my personal car I'm going with a k24z3 and a BW7163. My brother has decided that he wants to go down the turbo 2.5 path and I've just been trying to get my stuff together since I will be doing the majority of the work. Nobody here is under the assumption that you can do anything to double or triple the stock output of a car "cheaply" even my td04 1.8 has cost a good bit in the long run making everything reliable. What it boils down to is that a 2.5 and a turbo is the most cost effective way to get 350-400 whp in an NC that will hold itself together in a fun street car that sees occasional hpde/easy going track day. Before he posted the comment that he didn't want a turbo car, knowing what he did to his last car, I thought he may be looking for something to turn up. Nobody coming from a 300+ WHP miata is going to be content with sub 200hp in a street car. I never claimed I thought it would hold up in a wheel to wheel race car or anything like that. It might not even hold up to any high g loads with any semblance of sticky tires on any kind of driving. I'm sure if he got into it and started blowing up MZRs that he could reasonably make a decision on what to do after that. Would I have suggested it if he asked for a reliable track only car that is going to see hundreds of hours of racing? No. I have no clue what it takes to make any of that work. My goal in all of my personal cars have been fun daily cars that could handle a good flogging through the mountains. However for a fun car that will see light track duty and is a fun drivers car I still maintain even a stock NC (2.5 swapped or not) or 86 would be a great idea and when the itch arrives it's relatively simple and cheaper than other options like an LS/LFX to get an engine that can handle a bit of power. If Midtenn is to be believed that may be a fools errand in even letting it touch track tarmac. If that's the case then he should look for a better base to start with to learn to be a better driver on track.

I honestly didn't know that there was so much hate towards the 2.5. There are a couple guys in our little group here in AL that have 2.5 swapped cars and really enjoy them. I don't think any of them are setting record laps at Barbers, AMP, or Road Atlanta but I know they do better at keeping up with my turbo car in the twisties than my brothers pig of a NC1 2.0 PRHT does.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I'd forgotten how much I hated shopping for cars and dealing with private sellers etc. Oy vey...

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

There just seem to be some out there who push the 2.5NC swap as the end all, beat all solution to the NC world without considering what everyone's end use may be. Along with this is parroting that the 2.5L swap is 200whp guaranteed with nothing but a "good" junkyard motor and street cams. Having driven a well equipped 2.5 swapped NC3, I would definitely consider one for a fun street car/backroads carver/track car, but there are just more to it than just "slap motor in, rule over most NA/Bs". I'd also have to weigh it against just getting a FT86 though.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

So I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the base model with the blown shock. Do a few basic things to it and enjoy it as it sits before either flipping or swapping.

Rust situation looks great. So much better than others I've seen. Ugh.