Hi hi,
I'm using an MSM mixing manifold which requires the use of the hardline to the heater core. I ghetto rigged a stock BP unit and while it works, it's a matter of time til it might leak and it's impossible to reach with the turbo and manifold in place. As in, if it does leak, I cannot tighten the clamps.

Please please help me out on this one

 

paging curly and greddygalant.

 

They have extra MSM bits kicking around?

 

I know they have mentioned extra mixing manifolds, I would ask about the hardline. Though curly usually just flips the manifold and deletes the hardline. I assume there is a reason you are keeping the hardline though?

 

I have one. 5 million dollars.

 

I have one as well, only $4,999,999.

 

You all are a bunch of ********.

 

You know me well.
But seriously, if psyber doesn't want greddy's for some bizarre reason, it can be had for cheap. It's still sitting in the box of stock parts doing nothing.

 

It'd be more work for me to weld a fitting to utilize the heater core than to keep it in it's current configuration as it's been modified already to fit my manifold.

Midpack, how much are you looking for the hardline? I don't have half a million. Nor do I know anyone that'll weld my stocker and extend it a centimeter or two.

 

This is the 2004/2005 MSM version you want for a tad under the afore-mentioned 5 million dollars:
INLET,WATER PUMP (BP8J-15-160) - $104.18 - BP8J15160

Are you sure it will work on a non-MSM block?
I thought that the flange surface shape was a little different too.

Note: You can't simply flip the MSM mixing manifold like you can on a regular NA/NB :(

 

I dunno, how about $10 + shipping. Just to be clear, I'm not offering up the mixing manifold Lokeil linked, mine was modified to accept flippage and you can't have it. The hardline which runs from the heater core to the mixing manifold is all yours though.

 

I already have an MSM mixing manifold that is modified and fits; I need the hardline that is sealed by an oring that goes from the mixing manifold to the back of the block to connect to the heater core.

I guess mazda calls it a bypass pipe.



Because of the subtle difference of the mixing manifold I cannot use any normal 1.8BP bypass pipe, it ends up not matching up with the manifold stud and I had to cut it, and extend it using silicone hose. I don't trust this and it's impossible to access. I don't want to have to remove the entire manifold just to tighten a worm clamp or replace a burst hose that is getting heat cycled like crazy behind the turbo manifold.

The MSM one would fix this and allow it to remain one continuous rigid piece. Piece of mind after this build has broken my heart so many times. Do it twice, do it right.

 

Pm me I'll sell you mine