Sean

iTrader: (12)

Oh I have a guy that works with me that just sold his Mini 500 helicopter with a turbine out of a bell helicopter of some sort but it its only about a foot and a half long but it put out 300 hp witch is not a lot until you consider it makes 300 hp from 5000 rpm to 60000 rpm that would be one hell of a first gear.lol

It will soon be my dream when I can drive it all the time right now it is my nightmare miata.lol

blkside

Well if it went smooth then it wouldnt be a learning process. Just document and phtograph alot and you will get something out of it other than a fast miata.. some education

Slow_Sc3

So we got some of the wiring harness thinned out today, more to come tomorrow but its a good start. I eliminated the factory diagnostic box, all the body connectors, and any unneeded sensors. It should be nice when it is done. Here is a pic of all the wires we took out so far.

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Cococarbine3

iTrader: (1)

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...ce-swap-67382/

Sean

iTrader: (12)

OK so for a little update I have gotten my harness all the way down to 48 wires threw the firewall and there is still more to come out. I am moving my igniter to under the dash and all the power and grounds in the harness minus the grounds on the intake manifold have been moved all the way back to the ecu to help with ease of installation as well as to clean things up. I am currently looking for an aftermarket fuse box so I can dump the factory mazda one and have as little wiring in my car as possible. I am going to start gutting the wiring under the dash soon just too cold right now. I also scored these sweet connectors to make my harness super sweet and easy for doing motor swaps when the motor needs to come out now all I will have to do is un hook one connector. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics I really need to get a camera.

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I would also like to thank all the people who have looked at my build because I realized the other day that I am going to take my time and do the wire tuck on the engine harness and under the dash to make my car super legit instead of some other hunk of junk someone threw together it may take time but time I have and I have another car so this one can sit while I work on it. I just wish I realized how well this was going to work in the beginning so I would have done a few things different but no worries it will all be ok in the end.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

Ok so now that in the previous post I sounded like a little girl. I am doing a hella awesome wire tuck and with moving the fuse panel to in side the car I am ordering a new aftermarket universal fuse panel. The stock miata fuse panel has 11 fuses in it so I am going to go with a 14 gang box and hope for the best. I will try and keep you all updated.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

So here is a small update I am trying to clean out all the extra wires and make everything else look good this is how far I have gotten so far but I still have a good ways to go.

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The_Joker

Did you weigh all those wires that you removed? I'd be interested to know how much those add.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

I will weigh the wires later today when I get home I am not done trimming yet.lol Here is the harness all sorted out all the grounds and power wires to the harness have been moved to under the dash other than one ground witch needs to be hooked to the motor.

Here is a pic of the wire harness as it sits right now. I need to go put it back on the car and hook it up make sure the car still runs and then trim the wires to the appropriate lenght and figure out what routing I am going to do to make everything look good. Hopefully I can get that done this weekend. I got the special crimping tool from work for my connectors so after it all fits and works I can cut and splice in the connectors and wrap the harness. This is the best thing you can do to make the engine bay look better but what a total PITA it is.


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Turbo protege

iTrader: (1)

Sub'n to watch the progress

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Better than loom-- any type of braided sleeving you could ever want including side entry and nomex and...

http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/BraidedSleeving.php

Also, check this out. 4:1 heatshrink! I'm ordering a bunch of it if you want to try it out. It has better durability than regular heatshrink too.

http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/heatshrink-4-1.php

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

Looks great mang. Where did you get the amphenol, how much was it, and why did you get one with 60ish pins? You could have gotten a 30 pin one and it would be much smaller. Nevertheless I applaud the legitness of the harness with amphenol (also what I will be doing).

Sean

iTrader: (12)

I got them from my work I got a 60 pin a 30 pin and a 19 pin and a couple extras they were extra stuff laying around from 1992 lol. I have an extra 60 pin if you need one. The only bitch is you need a special crimp tool witch I also borrowed from work.lol The connectors new are around $150 each half but my cheap *** would never do that. I am planing on making the car legit as I can now that I relize how much it will save me in the long run.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

Damn! I know how much those ******* go for. I found some 24 pin ones from aerospace for $85 for the set but I am having trouble justifying that :( what special tool does the 60 pin one need?

fullthrottlemiata

i like the swap so far i wish i had the cash to get a 2j im doing a similar swap right now in my 93 but im using the 7mgte as it was just sorta dropped in my lap for free (in a way)
all im waiting on now is a weekend with nothing else to do your thread has helped with quite a few of my questions

Sean

iTrader: (12)

You can find a 2jge for $100 all the time if you can dig one up it would be well worth your time. The crimp tool is called a dainel and they are around $200 if you are local I could lend you one but I can't really let it out of my sight. Good luck with your build I just wish you had a 2j.lol

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

That's one expensive crimp tool! I think I am going to get my solder in amphenol instead, it has different gauge pins so I don't need to worry about running power through it and a closer number of pins to what I need so should be a little less tedious.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

All the crimping tools for the mil-spec connectors are expensive. I use Tyco's CPC Series 1 and 2 circular connectors (ultra cheap) and hand crimp them with a small set of pliers. The crimping tool is like $300...not going to happen any time soon.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

I have a 37 pin soilder on if that will work but all the other ones I have are crimp on.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

You dooooo? Does it have the ability to be mounted to the bulkhead/firewall and do you have any pics because I am mucho interested!