I had to build a new end on the low side hose to add a charge fitting because the stock 134 charge port is too close to my intake manifold plenum. Had I used a stock R12 hard line there, I could have used an R12-to-134 90° adapter!
I visited some local AC shops for two crimps (one for each hose) was quoted $150 and $175 AND they'd be sent out to have the work done. Then I shopped AC hose crimpers. Picked up a hydraulic crimper with standard and reduced barrier crimps for $225 delivered, two 10pks of ferrules for $10, then crimped my own hoses. Odds are be doing this again if not for me, somebody else.
All exchangers have final mounting completed (except for some bracket holes for the IC at the radiator flange). Delta fin IC was a tight fit, but just enough space for the stock AC drier location.
At this point the AC needs new line installation, oil and charge to complete. I have two 45° -10 AN fittings to come off the oil sandwich plate which will allow me to build the oil lines to the cooler- and add oil. Have resistor in hand to build my two speed fan setup with my Spal single speed 16" fan. Intercooler pipe routing is laid out. Running turbo-tim style on the hot side and mt.net on the cold side since there's no room through fender with the large intake plenum, throttle body and NA pop-up headlight. Car is really waiting on me at this point.
Looking good! I know making a/c lines sucks, I had to do that for my rear mount a/c condenser. Had same problem you did, local places couldn't do it and wanted a fortune. I didn't buy that tool you have though, I used otikier clamps on mine. So far it's working great. But if it ever blow a line off, I'm FOR SURE going to be PM'ing you to rent your hydraulic crimping tool. That's a lot better than a few otikier clamps I would think.
Also I just saw how you ran your brake booster line in the cowl area. Very clever. I'm totally stealing that Idea and running a few things through there. I got a couple different hoses running across back there I could run through that area instead.
bpt- the ride was a courtesy seat thanks to a friend.
pat- I considered clamps and decided to go traditional thinking I would more than likely use it on future projects. And I'd likely know somebody who would need lines in the future. Now that I've used it, I'm wondering what other things I can use it for. AC lines and fittings from old systems are essentially free if you know where to look. I can envision a catch can made from an old OE AC drier and lines/fittings... and so on.
The cowl area is definitely the default method for hiding all that crap that runs along the firewall. My brake/clutch lines should be back there.
I built it to fit me too and for turns. Did all the testing on our driveway which is steep with a 90° turn at the end and it does well. Most of these downhill races for kids are a straight line, but we've already got plans to run it at a large church parking lot up the street. Time to start scavenging some pylons!
@nick- yes that's from my crushed car. Spent some time on the hydraulic press and straightened it out (mostly). That is probably the biggest draw of kids to the car. During the event there was a perpetual cycle of kids sitting in the driver seat and "steering" the car. I need to add some functions for the horn buttons next year.
It is fun. It has redefined my idea of a momentum car.
Got about ten hours of garage time in over the holiday. Managed to install the oil cooler/lines, radiator/hoses, 04 brake master/lines/prop valve bracket and fan/relay wiring. Also got deep into the gauge, wbo2 and headunit install.
Only have images for the fan and wiring. That included using the OE Volvo dual trigger fan relay arrangement. The stock swept blade Volvo fan was just too thick for my use- interfering with the sway bar. I stayed with the 16" Spal straight blade I used prior. I know it works well, but this time around I'm cutting the speed for coolant temp or AC only. It will only go full speed with both ON. I used a 1/3ohm 100w resistor to cut the noise the fan makes in about half. Keep in mind the video is no hood, outside the car, so it'll be far more subdued with the hood/undertray installed.
Will update with more pics this weekend when I get back out there to wrap up the rest of the electrical.
How I wired using the Jaguar ECU temp trigger to ground for coolant temp and using the OE aux fan "ON":
Mounted on the ignitor 'stand' with room for the low speed resistor on the end, then ran the power lead in with the rest of the OE loom:
Ha- yes, at five years since putting this car on the lift, it has certainly been a relaxed schedule. But taking six month breaks from wrenching on it will do that.
I installed the Volvo fan and relays on my 87 Benz over a year ago and it has worked flawlessly. I like the idea of utilizing these OE parts to update antiquated systems or retrofit/update. The Benz will eventually get EFI using a fuel rail from a 2.3t saab and E36 throttle body. I'm using a 65mm tb from a 5.0 Mustang on the Miata- talk about cheap.
Update photos below. Got the 04/sport brake master installed. Turned out to be a complete redo of my prior master install because the sport reservoir sits closer to the booster. Had to make a new bracket for the prop valve and redo all the lines. The ADT flare tool worked well- but it's not a quick process. Lots of slow turning and checking. In the end I have a line that is away from the turbine/downpipe. All coolant and oil hoses/lines are finished and installed. I let the car idle and come up to operating temp and didn't find any leaks. :banana:
Currently in the process of wiring/installing the gauges and WBO2. That will allow me to start tuning. Intercooler pipes are the last big item. Then smaller stuff like the headlights, BOV/EWG vacuum lines/ports, body panels...