93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread - Page 163 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-24-2015, 10:25 AM   #3241
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Awwwww maaaannnnn!!!! No track day?

You're right though. Best possible place to happen . . . where you can laugh about it. Your Dad looks like he's having fun!! Save that picture to show your kids!

I'd be tempted to just quickly fix the CHRA and then move on to a serious NA track build. I'm sure there's another white NA out there in the desert that some chain-smoking dude on death's door doesn't want anymore. While this thing can stay together for some autocross runs, long-term track reliability is a different animal.

Plus, we can start saying "you know . . . while you're there . . . ." LOLOLOLOLOLOL!!!!!
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:32 AM   #3242
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What's your horsepower goals? It'll be good to find a compressor map with your horsepower goal smack dab in the middle of it at a not-so-crazy psi.

But to be clear, you want a new manifold and downpipe?

I'd suggest talking to Abe, and start shopping for an EFR.

Or, still talk to Abe, but buy a Tial V-band housing and rebuild your CHRA. And safety wire it.
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Old 01-24-2015, 01:07 PM   #3243
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Well that's pretty great bad news as bad news goes. Turbines are much easier to replace than engines.

#minorthreaddriftrevert: Ed, Aidan, March 29th Sunday Autox with PCA at PIR.
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Old 01-24-2015, 01:30 PM   #3244
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Yeah, this could have gone MUCH worse... Rebuild that CHRA or go with a nice EFR 6258 v-band setup... Nice power delivery and it should keep the other aspects of the car happy.
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Old 01-24-2015, 02:11 PM   #3245
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Its angry because you installed the new EBC

But seriously, that was probably the best failure mode you could have possibly expected. Definitely dodged a bullet with that one.

V-Bands are sexy, but what you have now seems to be working fine, other than the obvious. Do you really want to bin everything, sit on it for possibly 6 months and then start over? You can get out of this cheap by doing the CHRA exchange thing, or go nuts and ARTech/EFR. That's like $500 vs $2300 right there. Abe makes amazing stuff but don't be surprised when the lead time is measured in months rather than weeks.

Also, maybe you can find a replacement GTX fitment for your potato?
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Old 01-24-2015, 02:17 PM   #3246
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Quote:
Also, maybe you can find a replacement GTX fitment for your potato?
This is what I would do. It will be a direct replacement. Doing a completely new hotside with an efr and ARTech parts will cost you at a minimum of 3k. I speak from very recent experience. After all is said and done my budget went well over 3k
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Old 01-24-2015, 02:39 PM   #3247
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
How the hell did this happen besides Murphey's Law?
It's jealous of the PPF, and suicided out of spite.
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Old 01-24-2015, 02:40 PM   #3248
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So let's say you decide to do all new hotside stuff. If you rebuild your CHRA and sell your current hotside setup you'd probably get a good amount of money for it, offsetting a lot of the new cost. either way it's going to cost a lot of money though.

I was going to write more stuff, but I'm not really sure what to say. Also glad it didn't fail on you in the middle of the night, or the track, or whatever.

I'm just gonna leave this here.

Borg Warner EFR 6258 179150
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Old 01-24-2015, 02:41 PM   #3249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobius View Post
Well that's pretty great bad news as bad news goes. Turbines are much easier to replace than engines.

#minorthreaddriftrevert: Ed, Aidan, March 29th Sunday Autox with PCA at PIR.
I actually think I can make that? Do I need to register or anything? Or just show up with my helmet?
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Old 01-24-2015, 04:46 PM   #3250
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Either. Check the PCA website, there are several days in advance where you can do tech inspection and get it out of the way for the year.
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Old 01-25-2015, 03:23 AM   #3251
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Damn, that sucks Jeff! Sorry to see that.


buuuuut......


INB4 Jeff goes EFR
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Old 01-25-2015, 10:59 PM   #3252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
I'd be tempted to just quickly fix the CHRA and then move on to a serious NA track build.
Not sure starting an NA track Miata build would be wise for my wallet...very tempting though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
But to be clear, you want a new manifold and downpipe? buy a Tial V-band housing and rebuild your CHRA. And safety wire it.
Not too sure on my horsepower goals. I have been running it more often than not at 12 psi and found it to be the perfect spot for usable power vs. traction limits.

I don't think I want to go with a new manifold and downpipe after thinking about it for a bit. I'm getting to the point where I don't want to keep throwing $$$$'s of dollars at the car. Just want to drive it on the track and autocross it without having "upgrade fever". Merely maintenance and repair, necessary, not wants.

I really want to do V-band, but as several have mentioned, it is pricey for something I have yet to have a problem with(loose bolts).

Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
But seriously, that was probably the best failure mode you could have possibly expected. Definitely dodged a bullet with that one.

Also, maybe you can find a replacement GTX fitment for your potato?
My dad and I agree with you on the best failure one could have. A) I was close to home B) I wasn't in full boost when it happened C) impeller didn't hit the compressor housing.


What I am currently looking at is replacing my GT2860rs CHRA with a GTX2860r .64 A/R CHRA. Sadly, they are still pretty damn pricy for just the CHRA. Best price I've seen is $1137 at ATPTurbo. I can pick up a brand new GT2860rs CHRA for over half that.

So...better spool and efficiency of the bling bling GTX core for double the cost, or 2860rs at half the cost, and so-so response?

Trust me, I really want to do the Vband Abe ramhorn 6258 manifold and downpipe, it just isn't rationalizable with the recent purchases I've made for the car(oil cooler, radiator, ebc, 2 sets of wheels/tires,misc bits).

Plus I need to find a place with a 2 car garage so I don't have to go to St. George every time I want to work on the car. Don't want to take advantage of my fathers garage for too long.

People keep expecting me to be super pissed off about the turbo going bad, but I guess the older I get the less angry I get about thing that are out of my control. **** happens, just fix it, or stop doing it. No use wasting time complaining.

Thanks for the advice ya'll

I'm kinda glad this happened. On Saturday, the day I was supposed to drive out to SoW, I had the WORST case of 24 hour flu/food poisoning I have had in a long time. Would have been a shitty weekend.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:08 PM   #3253
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the gtx is better.
but not better for what you need, and certainly not 2x better to reflect the price.

another considering would be the 2560
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:11 PM   #3254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
I had the WORST case of 24 hour flu/food poisoning I have had in a long time. Would have been a shitty weekend.
Hehe, I see what you did there
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:13 PM   #3255
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Do not assume the listed prices at ATP are as good as it gets. Call some of the smaller Garrett Authorized Dealers like TurbosDirect in AZ. They saved me a ton over what ATP quoted me over the phone for the same exact Garrett CHRA.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
but I guess the older I get the less angry I get about thing that are out of my control. **** happens, just fix it, or stop doing it. No use wasting time complaining.
This. I'm the same way if its something I legitimately can't control. Yelling and stomping and carrying on generally solves nothing. Suck it up, learn from your mistakes and move forward.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
the gtx is better.
but not better for what you need, and certainly not 2x better to reflect the price.
I think Garrett is trying to take advantage of people who want to get a cheap upgrade from whatever they are running now to the GTX sexyness and are pricing the CHRAs accordingly. Kinda sucks, but it is what it is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
2560
I was thinking about this earlier, It might not be a terrible idea in this case seeing as he was just saying he's been running less boost recently due to traction issues. Though you are not going to save a ton by buying a whole new turbo. Used might be an option as they come up from time to time. I'm thinking 12~14psi on a 2560 can't be that far off from what he is running now in the low setting.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:23 PM   #3256
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Well the tater really isn't being put to use at 12psi. So kinda a waste in that regard.
The 2560 would be smack in the middle of its efficiency range, come on sooner, be more responsive, etc. So yeah.

As for ATP, I dunno, when I was pricing 2554's and 2560's I really couldn't find a single place that beat their pricing.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:51 PM   #3257
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Ouch. Sorry to see the kablammo. No fun at all.

And +1 on the 2560, though that 6258 is pretty.
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:10 AM   #3258
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I just wish there was something between the 2860 and the 2560. Seems like they left a decent gap between the two.

I know, EFR6258, but between the gap and has a T25 flange.

2560 does seem to be the answer, I just wonder if I'll miss flipping the map to 25psi and laughing my *** off occasionally.
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:13 PM   #3259
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How about look for a used 2560 and run it while you get parts together for an EFR setup or something? A turbo kit (maniold/turbo/downpipe) is worth more as a whole than in parts even if the turbo is used. No reason to spend "new" money on something you will likely be pulling out before too long.

Does anyone have a decent used turbo they'd be willing to sell Jeff to get him back on the road? Every day you aren't enjoying your car is another day closer to getting frustrated.
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:25 PM   #3260
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I mean........ther's a tater in the cassifieds right now.
I'd want better pics and specifics on it tho.
Some people think crappy pictures from 10ft away taken with a potato is good enough to sell a $650 item. lulz

...but I just realized he doesnt' even need the whole thing. just the chra. so nvm

I revert to my previous 2560 suggestion. Good power, good response, and with the correct fuel (read: e85/race gas) you can still haz 300 *insert evil laughter* experience
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