93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
09-14-2015, 07:04 PM
#4241
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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<p><img src="http://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/720x540/80-13469_401738279023_596899023_426224_1_57efcf12c769 1b22fbec0e5e6f25e04bb25e474b.jpg" title="" /><br /><br /> </p>
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09-14-2015, 07:52 PM
#4244
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I haven't a damn clue rleete. I've gone over every piece of anything connected to the engine trying to figure out if it could have come from that or not and nothing makes sense, or at least nothing has a ball bearing type "surround/cage" that it could have come from.
Trust me, it is driving me nuts as well. I hate mysteries.
Tell me this is normal...please, it has all the irregularities of something not designed to be there...
Trust me, it is driving me nuts as well. I hate mysteries.
Tell me this is normal...please, it has all the irregularities of something not designed to be there...
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09-14-2015, 07:56 PM
#4247
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<p>I think its funny. "Lets scare the **** out of everyone who opens this engine for the first time"</p><p>I would totally do **** like that.</p>
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09-14-2015, 08:16 PM
#4250
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I'm guessing it is just an oil return hole? My dremmel hand is getting itchy haha.
So I have ARP head studs and ARP2000 bolts for the rods. Any reason to get ARP Main studs as well? Looks like they didn't see a point when they originally built the motor but maybe they didn't want to line bore the block?
So I have ARP head studs and ARP2000 bolts for the rods. Any reason to get ARP Main studs as well? Looks like they didn't see a point when they originally built the motor but maybe they didn't want to line bore the block?
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09-14-2015, 08:37 PM
#4252
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More like wire wastegate open. Even on 7psi springs the EFR has made very pretty ventilation carnage.
Was it 99MX5 that blew his block on startup?
And now that I know the block and crank have no wear, and are easily reconditioned, a rebuild will suffice.
Was it 99MX5 that blew his block on startup?
And now that I know the block and crank have no wear, and are easily reconditioned, a rebuild will suffice.
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09-14-2015, 10:14 PM
#4254
Cpt. Slow
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You don't need a line bore for ARP main studs. I put them in with drill set to 5 ft/lbs with a tiny bit of the ARP ultra-lube, then torque the nuts to 60 ft/lbs, with the lube on either side of the washer and on the threads.
Generally if you put the lube on the stud, it'll get on the bottom of the washer when you slide it on, then a tiny bit more will get the top of the washer, and there's plenty left to lube the threads for the nut. This is also why you do an oil change after ~20 miles of driving.
To give you an idea of how much lube I use, ARP sends 2 packages with any of their stud kits. 2 packages will do the entire engine, which includes the cam bolts, head studs, main studs, and MBSP bolts. Which is everything (I think) I use the stuff on.
Generally if you put the lube on the stud, it'll get on the bottom of the washer when you slide it on, then a tiny bit more will get the top of the washer, and there's plenty left to lube the threads for the nut. This is also why you do an oil change after ~20 miles of driving.
To give you an idea of how much lube I use, ARP sends 2 packages with any of their stud kits. 2 packages will do the entire engine, which includes the cam bolts, head studs, main studs, and MBSP bolts. Which is everything (I think) I use the stuff on.
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09-15-2015, 12:23 AM
#4255
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Amazon had a really good deal on their Ultratorque lube a couple months back and I got a 10oz container of it for like $15. Figured it can't hurt when I need it, and can when I don't have it.
Trying to get a lot of this crap done so that when I do get the block back I can just slot it all in and get it ready to assemble.
Looking for some of these gaskets on the oil pump to rebuild it/change the seals/gaskets. Until I can find them, I won't go to crazy on the oil pump.
Block in real good shape
as are the crankshaft bearing caps
Finally got the water return all cleaned up and the rust off the nipple
Oil intake pipe cover thingy and bolts
Rear main seal seriously degunked(it was bad)
Trying to get a lot of this crap done so that when I do get the block back I can just slot it all in and get it ready to assemble.
Looking for some of these gaskets on the oil pump to rebuild it/change the seals/gaskets. Until I can find them, I won't go to crazy on the oil pump.
Block in real good shape
as are the crankshaft bearing caps
Finally got the water return all cleaned up and the rust off the nipple
Oil intake pipe cover thingy and bolts
Rear main seal seriously degunked(it was bad)
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09-15-2015, 12:50 AM
#4257
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1.9663" on the main bearings
1.7691" on the rod bearings.
but yeah when I get everything I'll figure out how to use the plastigauge
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09-15-2015, 10:07 AM
#4258
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Looks like a grind mark from balancing.
Those pieces have been bugging the crap out of me. I've been scouring exploded diagrams and parts lists, and I just don't see where it's a part of anything that should be inside an engine. The best I can come up with is something that got injested.
Those pieces have been bugging the crap out of me. I've been scouring exploded diagrams and parts lists, and I just don't see where it's a part of anything that should be inside an engine. The best I can come up with is something that got injested.
Seriously, I'm at a loss as to what that might be. It DOES look like a plastic cage for a set of ball bearings but there are not ball bearings in a BP. There are however ball bearings inside an EFR... 
Plastic or metal, ferrous or not (stick a magnet to it) will also help with identification. I mean, if its plastic that's not going to help, but you get the idea. in4answers.
Plastic or metal, ferrous or not (stick a magnet to it) will also help with identification. I mean, if its plastic that's not going to help, but you get the idea. in4answers.
The pieces of metal are probably bearing material, they look horrible.
It almost looks like those three other pieces could fit together to create some trianglular shape with a beveled circle in it, maybe you'd recognize it if you put the pieces together. That's going to slowly kill me until I know what it is.
It almost looks like those three other pieces could fit together to create some trianglular shape with a beveled circle in it, maybe you'd recognize it if you put the pieces together. That's going to slowly kill me until I know what it is.
Hnnnnggghhhh oh god that felt good to figure out.
Thank Bryan, no, he didn't figure it out, but he gave cause to an errant thought path that brought me to the conclusion.
After cracking the 2860 CHRA (holy **** ***** that C clip was a challenge)
And parsing the volcanic ash that was my turbo...hello Mr. random ball bearing, what are you doing out there!
Opening it up further I found the bearing races in pieces. Sitting in the oil pan for who knows how long must have turned them black.
I'm gonna go out to eat dinner tonight in solving this mystery.
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09-15-2015, 10:15 AM
#4260
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Which leads me to believe this was the cause to all my engine issues since getting the EFR setup.
Although, where the bearings are, the only path they could make it to the pan is through the oil drain line. So maybe all that **** didn't touch anything in the engine.
Although, where the bearings are, the only path they could make it to the pan is through the oil drain line. So maybe all that **** didn't touch anything in the engine.
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