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Old 03-14-2014, 01:44 PM   #1641
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Most excellent thanks!
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:49 PM   #1642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
Also it looks like I've sprung a small leak in the transmission. How tight does this bolt need to be? Is there a gasket/crush washer that goes under it?

It has leaked about a tablespoon of oil since I filled it up.

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Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
Is that a 6 speed? If so, be VERY DAMN CAREFUL about what plugs you mess with. I know there are plugs in that trans that are not actually plugs, but retainers for internal parts
am I blind or am I not understanding which plug/bolt he's talking about?


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Originally Posted by curly View Post
Just tore apart Doppels car, that plug was leaking on his as well. I think I did see a washer though. Definitely should look into that.
so you're the one working on his car?
so you'll be the one that gets the honor of installing my long block into his car?

teehee
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:13 PM   #1643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
am I blind or am I not understanding which plug/bolt he's talking about?
I'm in the same boat, that's why I said to be damn careful. Sounds like he is talking about whatever switch that is.

While I'm on about that, what the hell is the 3rd electrical plug on the 6 speed anyway? I know where the VSS is and I assume one is reverse lights, but what is the 3rd?

/threadjack
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:17 PM   #1644
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It is the Back-Up Light Switch that is on the lower passenger side of the transmission that I'm talking about.
Then you have the Speedo Sensor on the top of the passenger side
The Neutral Switch is on the drivers side top
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:17 PM   #1645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
I'm in the same boat, that's why I said to be damn careful. Sounds like he is talking about whatever switch that is.

While I'm on about that, what the hell is the 3rd electrical plug on the 6 speed anyway? I know where the VSS is and I assume one is reverse lights, but what is the 3rd?

/threadjack
Neutral switch?
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:22 PM   #1646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
It is the Back-Up Light Switch that is on the lower passenger side of the transmission that I'm talking about.
Then you have the Speedo Sensor on the top of the passenger side
The Neutral Switch is on the drivers side top
In that case yes you can remove, clean, put something on the last couple threads (the last couple that are on the outside, if that makes sense, not the inner-most ones) and re-install that bad boy.
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:24 PM   #1647
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Neutral, DERP! Carry on with yo bad OCD self.

Hey slacker, when are you going to finish polishing that transmission?
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:24 PM   #1648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
In that case yes you can remove, clean, put something on the last couple threads (the last couple that are on the outside, if that makes sense, not the inner-most ones) and re-install that bad boy.
I'm guessing it will drain all the oil once remove....

The thing I will do when I remove it is add another inch to the wires of the switch so that when I tighten it it doesn't pull it taught.
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Old 03-15-2014, 05:09 AM   #1649
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Not much done tonight, spent most the night studying the correct wiring for MS3x and the sensor grounds for the Brown analog sensor ground wires for the AFR/Boost gauge.

So from what I have read. You want to connect them into 2C & 2D black/green signal grounds off the ecu harness. Do I want to attach each brown wire into separate wires to reduce the noise of the signal? Or will attaching both gauges to the same point not affect "noise".



When I was looking at the ecu harness I also spotted this....this, does not look safe to me...at all. Or do a lot of people splice wires like this...




Then I started to track down all the problems with the wiring in the engine bay.

The pins are loose. Clip and replace with a undamaged from the 90 Miata harness?



This comes out from the injector harness behind the VIC's solenoid.



The VIC's solenoid. Red wraps around to the drivers fender and plugs into a blue single pin connector(although the connector is a 3 pin). Black I am pretty sure is the ground wire.



Fixed the AIT wires for the intercooler. It had unprotected loose wires just running to the intercooler, so I shrink wrapped them together and then put some of the new snazzy braided cable wrap on it. Also wrapped up the exposed pin connector the AIT harness goes into



Slowly but damn surely.
Attached Thumbnails
93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2196.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2194.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2200.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2204.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2201.jpg  

93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2207.jpg  

Last edited by Jeffbucc; 03-15-2014 at 05:53 AM.
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Old 03-15-2014, 05:09 AM
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Old 03-15-2014, 07:24 AM   #1650
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Now that is what I am talking about - thats the way I like a proper wiring!
Props of course!


That seem to be some shield wires, I have to look up the wire colours, to see what they are.
Could you have a look at which connector pin they end?

BTW, dammit that looks tasty... (Almost makes me wish I didn't hang myself yesterday due to the Brain... )
Attached Thumbnails
93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2207.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2194.jpg  

Last edited by Zaphod; 03-15-2014 at 07:37 AM.
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Old 03-15-2014, 12:15 PM   #1651
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Slow and steady on the wiring. Get it all cleaned up. It pays dividends to not have to worry about poor quality wiring. Bad wiring is how cars catch fire.

I'm doing EXACTLY the same thing right now on the red car. I think I've removed more than 20 wire taps at this point, fixed insulation, done proper wire splices with solder and heat shrink, etc., etc.

Here's a link for a VICS connector. I was in the same boat, PO "RTV'd" the wires to the VICS solenoid. Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics
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Old 03-15-2014, 02:10 PM   #1652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
Now that is what I am talking about - thats the way I like a proper wiring!
Props of course!
Yeah the wire wrap turned out great!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
That seem to be some shield wires, I have to look up the wire colours, to see what they are.
Could you have a look at which connector pin they end?
It looks like 2/0 and 2/N.

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Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
BTW, dammit that looks tasty... (Almost makes me wish I didn't hang myself yesterday due to the Brain... )
That picture is so old, when I first bought my bakery, when I didn't know what the hell I was doing!

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Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
I'm doing EXACTLY the same thing right now on the red car. I think I've removed more than 20 wire taps at this point, fixed insulation, done proper wire splices with solder and heat shrink, etc., etc.

Here's a link for a VICS connector. I was in the same boat, PO "RTV'd" the wires to the VICS solenoid.
It is so frustrating dealing with all these wiring issues. Problems that could be easily avoided are what **** me off the most in life.
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Old 03-15-2014, 06:31 PM   #1653
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So Jeff, do you own a great harvest franchise, or the whole company? I had always thought it was a franchise only.
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Old 03-15-2014, 06:43 PM   #1654
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So Jeff, do you own a great harvest franchise, or the whole company? I had always thought it was a franchise only.
I'd have one baller car if I owned the whole company! No, I own the franchise rights and the store in Cedar City.

Last edited by Jeffbucc; 03-15-2014 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:33 PM   #1655
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Well, that was a pricy hole. Had to purchase a 9/16 drill bit and a 3/8 NPT tap to install the IAT sensor.

Drill it



Tap it. I ran the tap and removed it several time to test fit the sensor. I found that 1/2 way down the tap gave it a VERY snug fit...which is what I wanted since the metal isn't thick enough to thread the sensor on all the way.







I routed the wires through the headlights, down the side of the radiator, through the fans, and onto the sensor. It really makes it look clean.

Attached Thumbnails
93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2211.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2212.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2215.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2216.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2219.jpg  

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Old 03-15-2014, 08:33 PM
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Old 03-15-2014, 09:05 PM   #1656
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Uh, Jeff, you do have a baller car. lol!
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Old 03-15-2014, 09:18 PM   #1657
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Uh...was that sensor really tight when it bottomed out on the little flange?
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Old 03-15-2014, 09:56 PM   #1658
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Quote:
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Uh, Jeff, you do have a baller car. lol!
I'm talking more baller than I have currently gone!

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Uh...was that sensor really tight when it bottomed out on the little flange?
The picture is misleading, there isn't a flange right there. I basically stopped tightening it when the last of the threads went into the lip of the hole. I only tapped it far enough that the sensor was very tight when tightening it. Plus I put sealant on the threads, it was kind of pointless though since I got it so perfect that it ejected all the sealant as I tightened.

Trust me, it isn't going anywhere.
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:24 PM   #1659
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IMHO a dab of rtv or jb weld on the threads will make that thing stay forever and seal up. I used JB weld because the IAT sensors are cheap and I had no plans on removing it anytime soon.

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Old 03-15-2014, 11:06 PM   #1660
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Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
IMHO a dab of rtv or jb weld on the threads will make that thing stay forever and seal up. I used JB weld because the IAT sensors are cheap and I had no plans on removing it anytime soon.
I might dab some red loctite around the base of it just in case.

Not sure why I didn't use some rtv. I just used some on my reverse sensor on my transmission to hopefully stop the leak.
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