Most excellent thanks!

 

am I blind or am I not understanding which plug/bolt he's talking about?


so you're the one working on his car?
so you'll be the one that gets the honor of installing my long block into his car?

teehee

 

I'm in the same boat, that's why I said to be damn careful. Sounds like he is talking about whatever switch that is.

While I'm on about that, what the hell is the 3rd electrical plug on the 6 speed anyway? I know where the VSS is and I assume one is reverse lights, but what is the 3rd?

/threadjack

 

It is the Back-Up Light Switch that is on the lower passenger side of the transmission that I'm talking about.
Then you have the Speedo Sensor on the top of the passenger side
The Neutral Switch is on the drivers side top

 

Neutral switch?

 

In that case yes you can remove, clean, put something on the last couple threads (the last couple that are on the outside, if that makes sense, not the inner-most ones) and re-install that bad boy.

 

Neutral, DERP! Carry on with yo bad OCD self.

Hey slacker, when are you going to finish polishing that transmission?

 

I'm guessing it will drain all the oil once remove....

The thing I will do when I remove it is add another inch to the wires of the switch so that when I tighten it it doesn't pull it taught.

 

Not much done tonight, spent most the night studying the correct wiring for MS3x and the sensor grounds for the Brown analog sensor ground wires for the AFR/Boost gauge.

So from what I have read. You want to connect them into 2C & 2D black/green signal grounds off the ecu harness. Do I want to attach each brown wire into separate wires to reduce the noise of the signal? Or will attaching both gauges to the same point not affect "noise".



When I was looking at the ecu harness I also spotted this....this, does not look safe to me...at all. Or do a lot of people splice wires like this...




Then I started to track down all the problems with the wiring in the engine bay.

The pins are loose. Clip and replace with a undamaged from the 90 Miata harness?



This comes out from the injector harness behind the VIC's solenoid.



The VIC's solenoid. Red wraps around to the drivers fender and plugs into a blue single pin connector(although the connector is a 3 pin). Black I am pretty sure is the ground wire.



Fixed the AIT wires for the intercooler. It had unprotected loose wires just running to the intercooler, so I shrink wrapped them together and then put some of the new snazzy braided cable wrap on it. Also wrapped up the exposed pin connector the AIT harness goes into



Slowly but damn surely.

 

Now that is what I am talking about - thats the way I like a proper wiring!
Props of course!


That seem to be some shield wires, I have to look up the wire colours, to see what they are.
Could you have a look at which connector pin they end?

BTW, dammit that looks tasty... (Almost makes me wish I didn't hang myself yesterday due to the Brain... )

 

Slow and steady on the wiring. Get it all cleaned up. It pays dividends to not have to worry about poor quality wiring. Bad wiring is how cars catch fire.

I'm doing EXACTLY the same thing right now on the red car. I think I've removed more than 20 wire taps at this point, fixed insulation, done proper wire splices with solder and heat shrink, etc., etc.

Here's a link for a VICS connector. I was in the same boat, PO "RTV'd" the wires to the VICS solenoid. Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

 

Yeah the wire wrap turned out great!

It looks like 2/0 and 2/N.

That picture is so old, when I first bought my bakery, when I didn't know what the hell I was doing!

It is so frustrating dealing with all these wiring issues. Problems that could be easily avoided are what **** me off the most in life.

 

So Jeff, do you own a great harvest franchise, or the whole company? I had always thought it was a franchise only.

 

I'd have one baller car if I owned the whole company! No, I own the franchise rights and the store in Cedar City.

 

Well, that was a pricy hole. Had to purchase a 9/16 drill bit and a 3/8 NPT tap to install the IAT sensor.

Drill it



Tap it. I ran the tap and removed it several time to test fit the sensor. I found that 1/2 way down the tap gave it a VERY snug fit...which is what I wanted since the metal isn't thick enough to thread the sensor on all the way.







I routed the wires through the headlights, down the side of the radiator, through the fans, and onto the sensor. It really makes it look clean.

 

Uh, Jeff, you do have a baller car. lol!

 

Uh...was that sensor really tight when it bottomed out on the little flange?

 

I'm talking more baller than I have currently gone!

The picture is misleading, there isn't a flange right there. I basically stopped tightening it when the last of the threads went into the lip of the hole. I only tapped it far enough that the sensor was very tight when tightening it. Plus I put sealant on the threads, it was kind of pointless though since I got it so perfect that it ejected all the sealant as I tightened.

Trust me, it isn't going anywhere.

 

IMHO a dab of rtv or jb weld on the threads will make that thing stay forever and seal up. I used JB weld because the IAT sensors are cheap and I had no plans on removing it anytime soon.

 

I might dab some red loctite around the base of it just in case.

Not sure why I didn't use some rtv. I just used some on my reverse sensor on my transmission to hopefully stop the leak.