EO2K

iTrader: (37)

That's pretty much what the rest of this end up doing one way or another.

The goal of this exercise is to make sure that every bit of the air that goes through the nose has nowhere to go but through the intercooler and radiator cores. How pretty it ends up being is completely up to you. Most guys end up slapping together something out of stolen coroplast election signs but you are a huge step ahead with the ABS and skills to use it. If you want an example of function over form, check out Hustlers tape and zip tie abomination. It ain't pretty but its damn effective.

So you know, no pressure

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Also, keep in mind that you can consider the IC, radiator, and piping at the front as part of the car's structure. You can make it tight -- don't need to accomodate movement like you did with your engine air filter. If you look at how the factory air guide joins with the undertray and car structure to seal, that's what you're after.

My red car had a flat panel on it like you've built. I could see a gaping hole to the bumper inlet from the wheel well. That's not what you want. The red car is reverting to the factory pieces (which are pretty darn good) -- but obviously I don't have to deal with an IC on that car.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Your gonna want to duct/box in your intercooler/radiator together you will overheat otherwise. Your stock gauge may say your good but the stock gauge doesnt move over till around 230 and thats too damn hot. I stop pushing the car at 220. My car never sees 230 that just doesnt sit well with me

Jeffbucc

I'm workin' on it Scotty tryst me!

This is Rev. 3 so far, this is just about perfect. Need to make a few tweaks for the intercooler hose holes but it fits like a glove and fills all the void space on the side of the intercooler and radiator.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Where in the world are you getting all this plastic? That stuff looks like its perfect to fabricate stuff like this.

Jeffbucc

Back when I did my door panels I accident bought a 48x96 sheet of it haha. I have tons.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Haha, awesome. Is that the guy on Ebay selling 48" X 96" sheets of 1/4" black ABS? I bet shipping was monstrous

Yezzir

Hey Jeff, how easy is it to heat and bend the ABS? Do you just use a heat gun and a bending brake?

Jeffbucc

EO2K I bought the plastic from a local sign&advertising company. 1/8" textured ABS plastic. Once you get a few bends in it it become incredibly rigid and won't flex.

Yezzir I score area I want to bend 1/16" deep and then radius the edges then go over it with a heat gun until it starts becoming pliable. Then I just use the garage floor or 2x4's and apply equal pressure till I get the shape I want. Nice thing about ABS is that you can reheat the plastic several times and not have it break on you. Just gotta make sure to heat it enough and it won't crack.

Also buy a linoleum scorer/knife. I used to use a dremmel/exacto/hack saw but none of them can give you a perfectly straight line like a linoleum knife can. Plus it cuts fast too. Worth the time to do it by hand rather than machine for the straightness and less mess/melted plastic.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

That part is friggin' perfect. Your buddy FAB should buy your template and sell these with his intercoolers. Awesome job!!

Jeffbucc

You'd have to cut off the lower bumper tabs to make this one work, but it looks like it will be a good fit.

You guys should have never introduced me to eBay cheap goods. Laziness to price ratio was to good for these. I feel like I should go post on club roadster now though...

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

I for one think the GV style front lip will look great on your car. How much for the R package rear lip? I need one!

Jeffbucc

I picked up both as a packaged deal for $95. I think I saw the rear lips go for around 70 by themselves.

I was worried the GV lip would look too ridiculous on the car but after looking at several pictures it seemed to mesh better than the factory R lip.

Jeffbucc

OK pretty much all done, need to tweak some stuff here and there but I'm finally happy with it. Question is, did I do a good enough job sealing up the intercooler air pressure region?

One of the tweaks is cutting an inch into the lower left corner and pulling the corners in tight against the factory skid plate.



Really happy with how perfect the intercooler hole came out.



hole into the engine bay is nice and tight too, and it actually helps pull the hose off the sway bar bracket. I may add a little bit of rubber to the edge of the plastic. Even though these parts don't move much I'd still like to avoid rubbing a hole in these very expensive flyin miata silicone.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

You seem to have done A LOT better job than most of us have managed to accomplish. I'm taking notes to see "how its done"

A little bit of sacrificial rubber never hurt nothin'. Its a good idea, one I plan on implementing when I get around do actually getting my **** together.

Keep up the good work man, some of us are still taking notes.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

I usually just cut a length of silicone vac line and then cut it on one side length wise. Makes great little gaskets around edge corners. Just slip the slit over the edge and then press it on the sharp bits. Done well for me in the past for protecting things near by, or rubbing against it.

Jeffbucc

Got the front lip on. It's amazing how much it changes the appearance of the car. It's like Portia De Rossi all of a sudden got an upgrade to a C-cup; you wouldn't care either way because my god, it's Portia De Rossi, but it doesn't hurt!(such a shame all that is wasted on Ellen)

Jeffbucc

And I haven't adjusted the headlight lid just to bug a few of you!

*edit* Also the angle makes the lip look off but it looks fine in person.

Zaphod

Just loosen the 3 big bolts/screws that hold the headlight assembly on the car and wiggle it around, that will solve most of the headlight problem.

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

Wow I am now on the hunt for some of that plastic... Seems like it comes in very handy!!