93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
#2081
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Isnt there some thing with 1.6 cars where the FP is wired up through the stock air meter? I think you have to jumper something or something.
(I've got an NB so my NA6 knowledge is somewhat suspect)
(I've got an NB so my NA6 knowledge is somewhat suspect)
Last edited by EO2K; 04-10-2014 at 06:42 PM.
#2082
You are massively correct E02K.
Jumped the wire from fuel pump to the AFM and the car instantly started after I accidentally turned the key to far! Holy **** that surprised me.
I shut it down quickly though since it was completely unintentional.
After I jumped to AFM there is a very loud buzzing noise coming from beneath the cars gauges... not sure why this is.
I ran a wire from the fuel pump and connected it to these two points on the AFM
Jumped the wire from fuel pump to the AFM and the car instantly started after I accidentally turned the key to far! Holy **** that surprised me.
I shut it down quickly though since it was completely unintentional.
After I jumped to AFM there is a very loud buzzing noise coming from beneath the cars gauges... not sure why this is.
I ran a wire from the fuel pump and connected it to these two points on the AFM
#2091
Pulled the CAS and COP and cranked with the oil feed line from the turbo off. It dumped about 1/2 cup of oil into the cup, so I don't think any damage is happening to the turbo and it is developing oil pressure.
Also switched the tach settings in tuner studio to ON, but there was interference from the PWM signal so I changed it to tach and still no response from the gauges.
If my tach out is on 2B on MS, which is the correct output for tunerstudio?
I also need to set the 99 tps/IAT to a new setting. Tunerstudio is reading it at 51% throttle at idle, but it is idling at 2350 rpm.*edit* I may have the 5v and ground reversed after a little reading.
When I have the fuel pump jumped it is reading the fuel pump at 100% duty cycle as well, which may be why I'm getting such a loud noise from the fuel pump relay.
Also switched the tach settings in tuner studio to ON, but there was interference from the PWM signal so I changed it to tach and still no response from the gauges.
If my tach out is on 2B on MS, which is the correct output for tunerstudio?
I also need to set the 99 tps/IAT to a new setting. Tunerstudio is reading it at 51% throttle at idle, but it is idling at 2350 rpm.*edit* I may have the 5v and ground reversed after a little reading.
When I have the fuel pump jumped it is reading the fuel pump at 100% duty cycle as well, which may be why I'm getting such a loud noise from the fuel pump relay.
#2099
I needed a break from tunerstudio and researching stuff so I decided to get my headlights and other lights working right.
Forgot to check the continuity of the wires when I installed the new harness and it turns out grounding to the starter is not so good idea.
The diode I had put in was in the wrong direction so it wasn't blocking the high beams when only the low beams were on. So after changing the direction and getting everything sorted out they work perfectly.
My god they are bright too. When all 4 lights are on it makes the factory xenons on my Jetta look weak and dim.
Also thought I'd take a quick shot of the gauges with the white LEDs I put in. The bleeding around the needle caps is only due to them not being pressed on firmly since I need to align them once my tach starts working. The brightness of the trip meter and total miles is over-accentuated by the camera. It looks great IRL.
Forgot to check the continuity of the wires when I installed the new harness and it turns out grounding to the starter is not so good idea.
The diode I had put in was in the wrong direction so it wasn't blocking the high beams when only the low beams were on. So after changing the direction and getting everything sorted out they work perfectly.
My god they are bright too. When all 4 lights are on it makes the factory xenons on my Jetta look weak and dim.
Also thought I'd take a quick shot of the gauges with the white LEDs I put in. The bleeding around the needle caps is only due to them not being pressed on firmly since I need to align them once my tach starts working. The brightness of the trip meter and total miles is over-accentuated by the camera. It looks great IRL.