Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary) - Page 283 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 12-16-2015, 07:18 PM   #5641
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Ordered.

Going to pick up a pilot bearing locally. Cost was the same after shipping, if i wanted it before xmas.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:00 PM   #5642
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OK the 2 real questions today.

1. Best way to do the rear line from the ABS block to the rear.

2. Do ABS lines line up with 929 or do they need adapters.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:01 PM   #5643
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Turns out all the lines are there except the long one to the back. I can work with that.

codrus do you have a diagram of the abs line routing? And where do you get all your diagrams from, I need that book you always send me pictures of.
Diagram of the brake hard lines or of the wiring?

The wiring diagram is in my ABS build thread. I got it from a friend who has the Alldata service.

I don't have a diagram of the brake lines. It's pretty simple -- two lines from master to prop-valve-shaped-thingey, two lines from there to ABS unit, 3 lines out from there to FL, FR, RR, one line that crosses over from RR to RL.

I got the master-to-prop, prop-to-abs, and abs-to-FR/FL lines from my donor vehicle, they were all pretty simple to install. abs-to-FR was the worst because it needed to snake through all the crap around the intake manifold. It takes a few minutes of staring at them to puzzle out which is which, but it's not that hard.

The rear crossover is identical, you don't need to change it. I'm going to assert that the abs-to-RR line is impossible to install with the motor & tranny in the car -- we wrestled with it for a while before giving up, cutting off the factory line, bending it over to the ABS unit, and flaring the end.

Which book do you mean? I have the Mazda FSM for 99 (that's the brown book that occasionally shows up in photos). There are PDFs of it linked in a sticky thread on mt.net somewhere.

--Ian
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:03 PM   #5644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
OK the 2 real questions today.

1. Best way to do the rear line from the ABS block to the rear.

2. Do ABS lines line up with 929 or do they need adapters.
1) The "right" way to do it is to take the motor out, swap the OEM line over, put the motor back in. It's a lot easier to cut/bend/flare.

2) They do not line up, you will need to make custom lines to adapt the 929 master to the ABS "prop valve". I used "cunifer" line from fedhillusa.com at the recommendation of someone I read on some forum, seemed to work well.

--Ian
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:14 PM   #5645
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Ok good to know. I'll go look at your thread. The line to RR is the only line I don't have.

Guess its just some custom lines.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:23 PM   #5646
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Just buy the new OEM line from mazda. I did mine with the engine out but you could probably do it with the engine in.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:52 PM   #5647
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FYI, the hard lines are still hooked to the prop valve and the pump is labeled, so the only line you'll need to guess at is the front to back line. It's an easy guess.
It just goes straight up the passenger side iirc.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:53 PM   #5648
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Wow, you da best. You make this too easy.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:58 PM   #5649
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Just buy the new OEM line from mazda. I did mine with the engine out but you could probably do it with the engine in.
For the front-to-rear line? I spent an hour ******* with it before concluding it was never going to happen. Cutting/bending/flaring the non-ABS line took 15 minutes.

--Ian
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:59 PM   #5650
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Do you have pics of the cut/bend in your other thread?

Did you ever get to scope your abs sensor?
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:11 PM   #5651
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Quote:
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Do you have pics of the cut/bend in your other thread?

Did you ever get to scope your abs sensor?
Not detailed shots of the process, no. It's the front-left one in this installed shot:



There's not much to it. Unbolt it from the master, stare at it for 5-10 minutes to decide where it should go, then use your tubing bender to make it go there. Cut with your tubing cutter, put the flare nut on (don't forget this step!), then flare. Screw nut into ABS unit. Done.

No, I haven't had a chance to scope anything yet. Stuff exploded at work, somebody promised a customer an EFT image with a feature in it during "Q4", and that feature doesn't work yet. And it's the holidays. Oh, and did I mention I'm moving on Sunday? Out of a house with 10 years' accumulated crap in it? My life is insane, right now, I'm only reading mt.net because I'm waiting for stuff to compile.

--Ian
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:14 PM   #5652
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Lol. Good enough. Sounds like fun, good luck!
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:14 PM   #5653
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(Sorry, that came out harsher than I intended. I'll scope ABS stuff once I get moved into the new house and have the lift set up )

--Ian
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:32 PM   #5654
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No worries! Just checking in. I might have it installed in my own car soon anyways.
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:38 AM   #5655
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Quote:
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Cut with your tubing cutter, put the flare nut on (don't forget this step!), then flare.
I can't count the number of times I've flared a line before remembering the nut goes on first.
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:03 PM   #5656
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yank has benders and flare tools so we're good there. Need to order line. Or just find it locally.
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:51 PM   #5657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codrus View Post
For the front-to-rear line? I spent an hour ******* with it before concluding it was never going to happen. Cutting/bending/flaring the non-ABS line took 15 minutes.

--Ian
Yeah the rear line. The NB one just dropped right in with some minor adjusting near the firewall and fuel lines. It was easy. And I didnt have to flare anything.
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:52 PM   #5658
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Engine in or out?

Either way I don't have one. Whats the price from mazda for a new one?
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:54 PM   #5659
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Like $50 bucks after shipping. The price went up substantially since I bought mine. I think they caught on.
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:57 PM   #5660
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No thanks. I'll bend and flare. I'm already over $500 into the swap. (so one set of fucked tires )
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