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Old 05-22-2015, 03:51 PM   #1041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbofan View Post
Oh dear. Mine basically slipped right out. Good luck sir.
Same here. A little PB Blaster + hammer time and they came right out. I thought everyone who complained about this task must have been a giant wuss
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Old 05-22-2015, 03:52 PM   #1042
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<p>I've got an hour and a half and 3 cuts so far.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Neither side is out.</p>
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Old 05-22-2015, 03:54 PM   #1043
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<p></p>
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Old 05-22-2015, 03:56 PM   #1044
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Do you have a dremel or something with a cutting wheel (or maybe a carefully-wielded sawzall) where you can make a cut top to bottom through the metal bushing liner?

Do you not have a press of some sort? You need one of those HF ball joint presses or something. That's what I used on mine.
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Old 05-22-2015, 04:13 PM   #1045
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Cut each edge to release tension until you're just barely touching the aluminum arm. Do this in a few places. Flip, and hit with you're biggest sledge and a wrecking bar.
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Old 05-22-2015, 04:38 PM   #1046
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<p>One done:</p><p><br /><br /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Time to go to class.</p>
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Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-acy6pptl.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-4wgmxcpl.jpg   Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary)-x5dqzjnl.jpg  
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:24 PM   #1047
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That suucks

Mine gave up releasing the pressure on the bottom then on the top side. I used a wire wheel to clean the inside of the diff housing bushings, looks like you might need a bit more than I did!



I've got cheap protane bushings, I hope a propane torch is enough to melt the lower mount rubber off...
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:28 PM   #1048
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It won't melt. It'll burn. Just prepare for it. And propane will be plenty.
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:38 PM   #1049
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<p><br /><br /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Also put in new sleeves from cordycord.</p>
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:40 PM   #1050
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I feel like throwing it in a coffee can full of acetone would melt it off.
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:09 PM   #1051
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IF the rust is really quite bad you could soak it in some rust remover from Home depot to break the mechanical bond it's forming and then smack it with a hammer.
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:11 PM   #1052
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I ended up getting it. Didn't kill wheelhop as much as I wanted though.
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:14 PM   #1053
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Supposedly this should help

BEATRUSH Rear P.P.F. Performance Bar for Miata 1994-1997
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:18 PM   #1054
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I'll make one of those. Going to the drag strip at woodburn on Sunday. Ed you should come in the s2k with a for sale sign on it. Its Some huge import car show
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:22 PM   #1055
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Can you make one of those, or do you have a later subframe? I has no tabs.

I'd turn up some solid aluminum mounts, probably work better than that brace bar for the same effect.
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Old 05-22-2015, 10:19 PM   #1056
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<p>I have a 1990, does that mean it has the tabs.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
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Old 05-23-2015, 01:00 AM   #1057
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It has zero tabs. There's a ~$100 shipped kit (ISC?) that turns it into an NB subframe, with front and rear tabs. Also has a backing plate with a giant nut welded to it so you could attach the entire NB ladder brace from the rear. The shiny black piece in this pic:



I have one for sale if you want it Doesn't attach to the PPF, but it does connect the dangling subframe to the chassis to really box it in.
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Old 05-23-2015, 01:05 AM   #1058
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<p>I'll probably just ghetto fab something when I get my new welder. I'll just weld something onto the subframe.</p>
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Old 05-23-2015, 04:43 PM   #1059
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I didnt melt the the plates. I just took a 4 and half inch cut off wheel and cuto the rubber off then finished with a wire brush and sanded them down.
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:12 PM   #1060
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Something in my drive line didn't like wheelhop......good thing I just won a 6 speed and 3.9 torsen.
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