Same here. A little PB Blaster + hammer time and they came right out. I thought everyone who complained about this task must have been a giant wuss

 

<p>I've got an hour and a half and 3 cuts so far.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Neither side is out.</p>

 

<p></p>

 

Do you have a dremel or something with a cutting wheel (or maybe a carefully-wielded sawzall) where you can make a cut top to bottom through the metal bushing liner?

Do you not have a press of some sort? You need one of those HF ball joint presses or something. That's what I used on mine.

 

Cut each edge to release tension until you're just barely touching the aluminum arm. Do this in a few places. Flip, and hit with you're biggest sledge and a wrecking bar.

 

<p>One done:</p><p><br /><br /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Time to go to class.</p>

 

That suucks

Mine gave up releasing the pressure on the bottom then on the top side. I used a wire wheel to clean the inside of the diff housing bushings, looks like you might need a bit more than I did!



I've got cheap protane bushings, I hope a propane torch is enough to melt the lower mount rubber off...

 

It won't melt. It'll burn. Just prepare for it. And propane will be plenty.

 

<p><br /><br /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Also put in new sleeves from cordycord.</p>

 

I feel like throwing it in a coffee can full of acetone would melt it off.

 

IF the rust is really quite bad you could soak it in some rust remover from Home depot to break the mechanical bond it's forming and then smack it with a hammer.

 

I ended up getting it. Didn't kill wheelhop as much as I wanted though.

 

Supposedly this should help

BEATRUSH Rear P.P.F. Performance Bar for Miata 1994-1997

 

I'll make one of those. Going to the drag strip at woodburn on Sunday. Ed you should come in the s2k with a for sale sign on it. Its Some huge import car show

 

Can you make one of those, or do you have a later subframe? I has no tabs.

I'd turn up some solid aluminum mounts, probably work better than that brace bar for the same effect.

 

<p>I have a 1990, does that mean it has the tabs.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

 

It has zero tabs. There's a ~$100 shipped kit (ISC?) that turns it into an NB subframe, with front and rear tabs. Also has a backing plate with a giant nut welded to it so you could attach the entire NB ladder brace from the rear. The shiny black piece in this pic:



I have one for sale if you want it Doesn't attach to the PPF, but it does connect the dangling subframe to the chassis to really box it in.

 

<p>I'll probably just ghetto fab something when I get my new welder. I'll just weld something onto the subframe.</p>

 

I didnt melt the the plates. I just took a 4 and half inch cut off wheel and cuto the rubber off then finished with a wire brush and sanded them down.

 

Something in my drive line didn't like wheelhop......good thing I just won a 6 speed and 3.9 torsen.
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