Astroboy's reliability build (pic intensive)
#141
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http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=75...arg&mra=ls&z=5
How's the sofa?
How's the sofa?
Soooooo lots of cranking but no starting. There is spark, fuel, leaking brake fluid, and a small coolant leak so far. Kinda worried what will happen when it runs. Then all the leaks will really shine. Big thanks to Dave for helping me with this thing all afternoon/evening!
Things that may be causing it to not work:
-Botched wire for the tps (not likely)
-Fuel pressure gauge reading zero (meaning all the fuel was just going back to the tank so little to nothing to go to the injectors)
-Messed up timing
-the exhaustake cam isn't set properly
-I suck at life and Miata (most likely the cause)
#144
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Thank you for the kind words sir.
#145
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yeah it really seamed that you werent getting any spark, even tho it did spark when we pulled the plug out and checked
charge your damn battery. i dont like that it was going to 8v. that could have something to do with this
charge your damn battery. i dont like that it was going to 8v. that could have something to do with this
#146
I could give you a hand doing the nitty gritty with your bay sometime...but I need to get my **** sorted first :(
Soooooo lots of cranking but no starting. There is spark, fuel, leaking brake fluid, and a small coolant leak so far. Kinda worried what will happen when it runs. Then all the leaks will really shine. Big thanks to Dave for helping me with this thing all afternoon/evening!
Things that may be causing it to not work:
-Botched wire for the tps (not likely)
-Fuel pressure gauge reading zero (meaning all the fuel was just going back to the tank so little to nothing to go to the injectors)
-Messed up timing
-the exhaustake cam isn't set properly
-I suck at life and Miata (most likely the cause)
Soooooo lots of cranking but no starting. There is spark, fuel, leaking brake fluid, and a small coolant leak so far. Kinda worried what will happen when it runs. Then all the leaks will really shine. Big thanks to Dave for helping me with this thing all afternoon/evening!
Things that may be causing it to not work:
-Botched wire for the tps (not likely)
-Fuel pressure gauge reading zero (meaning all the fuel was just going back to the tank so little to nothing to go to the injectors)
-Messed up timing
-the exhaustake cam isn't set properly
-I suck at life and Miata (most likely the cause)
I remember doing my build and the hardest part about the whole god damn thing was when it came time to actually start the car and get it running.
Good luck with it man!
#147
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Snow time is the best time to take things apart, just have to reassemble in a timely manner.
#148
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Oooooook, long time no update. For those that give a **** read on. Otherwise scroll down to the pretty pictures
Ebay FPR was missing its internals so there was no pressure. Guy wouldn't respond so no refund. Put in aeromotive and got pressure. Cut the hard lines for reliability (one got pinched) and put the proper clamps on all the lines.
Other thing that was keeping her from starting was the cranking rpm setting in ms, if it is set too low it won't let your car start. Fucked with that for a good week or two till diyautotune gave me a clue.
Adjusted the plug in the head...hopefully it doesn't blow out on the breakin. Put the dash in and battled the steering wheel into position. Got that ---- in and put 1/4" spacers in/on to put the wheel a bit lower. I think I want to go down one inch though, I need to buy longer bolts. Also put the cluster in and the meters work, just no lights most likely because I shorted some **** out.
Today/tonight I put the hood on, the headlight buckets in, headlight covers on, measured for my motorless healight setup, and figured out where the plug that goes to nothing goes to (it/they are for the climate control). Here are pics to prove I am doing something:
Ebay FPR was missing its internals so there was no pressure. Guy wouldn't respond so no refund. Put in aeromotive and got pressure. Cut the hard lines for reliability (one got pinched) and put the proper clamps on all the lines.
Other thing that was keeping her from starting was the cranking rpm setting in ms, if it is set too low it won't let your car start. Fucked with that for a good week or two till diyautotune gave me a clue.
Adjusted the plug in the head...hopefully it doesn't blow out on the breakin. Put the dash in and battled the steering wheel into position. Got that ---- in and put 1/4" spacers in/on to put the wheel a bit lower. I think I want to go down one inch though, I need to buy longer bolts. Also put the cluster in and the meters work, just no lights most likely because I shorted some **** out.
Today/tonight I put the hood on, the headlight buckets in, headlight covers on, measured for my motorless healight setup, and figured out where the plug that goes to nothing goes to (it/they are for the climate control). Here are pics to prove I am doing something:
#151
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Thanks, the hood was a one off kinda thing. Wish the louvers were in a spot that made them do some good. When it starts driving again I am going to make a speed bump of some sort in front of them to see if I can make a negative pressure spot over them and pull air out through them.
#152
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Well she started and went to 3000rpm's immediately (after ******* with the settings for 30 minutes because she wouldn't so much as sputter). Called my buddy and he said I should probably disconnect the iacv. Did it and she ran pretty well for a few moments till I turned her off. Then I checked under the car and a puddle of oil and coolant had built up and was dripping off the entire center section of the subframe. Jacked up the car and it seems to be all coming from the stock oil cooler so going to have to pull it off and find out wtf is up with it, anybody have any recommendations for what to check? I may have not tq's it properly if at all...
Then it started to pour outside so no break in yet
On another note all the meters seem to be working well and when cranking the oil pressure jumps to 50psi range. I'll have video and msq's later
Then it started to pour outside so no break in yet
On another note all the meters seem to be working well and when cranking the oil pressure jumps to 50psi range. I'll have video and msq's later
#154
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Hell yeah he is!
On another note I gotta get some more oil because the oil and coolant looked to be making a nastay concoction and I don't want to risk it having gotten back into the oiling system. At least I know she's ready to go
On another note I gotta get some more oil because the oil and coolant looked to be making a nastay concoction and I don't want to risk it having gotten back into the oiling system. At least I know she's ready to go
#156
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it is a 99 head, I just got rid of that vc and went with an escort one. I mean you could cut off the cam cover area, throw a 94-97 vc on, use that vc with no sensor and a plug installed, or the sensor hooked up. There is a blank out in the back of the head to put the cas into. Just gotta pop the cap out. The cam is keyed for it and everything. pretty cake to do actually.
And thanks!
And thanks!
#158
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No, it is on the exhaust side, I can take a pic tomorrow for ya.
So today there was much anger followed by more oily hand to face and laughter. It would seem when I put the engine in the car I threw the oil filter on to protect the threaded tube that goes through the oil cooler buuut I never went back to put it together.
Then when I cranked the car before and saw coolant and oil coming out I interpreted it as I had a bad hose clamp or something and a separate oil leak that just happened to be in the same area (or just coming from between the filter and cooler) so new clamps, change oil, and hope for miracles. Well none were realized, I still don't know how magnets work, and I spent 2 hours trying to get the oil filter off (which eventually happened after cutting up a strap wrench, killing a pipe wrench, putting a screw driver through it, jamming vice grips into it, and eventually getting oil filter pliers and practically ripping it in half).
When I got the filter off the hilarity ensued. Besides not putting any kind of gasket between the oil cooler and the block I didn't even put the nut on to keep the thing in place. So it was only being held on by the oil filter.
Not sure what measures I should take to make sure I didn't/don't **** myself over but I am thinking before I take her out run one more change of oil through her and go back to the straight 30 weight oil for the break in. Anybody have any recommendations?
So today there was much anger followed by more oily hand to face and laughter. It would seem when I put the engine in the car I threw the oil filter on to protect the threaded tube that goes through the oil cooler buuut I never went back to put it together.
Then when I cranked the car before and saw coolant and oil coming out I interpreted it as I had a bad hose clamp or something and a separate oil leak that just happened to be in the same area (or just coming from between the filter and cooler) so new clamps, change oil, and hope for miracles. Well none were realized, I still don't know how magnets work, and I spent 2 hours trying to get the oil filter off (which eventually happened after cutting up a strap wrench, killing a pipe wrench, putting a screw driver through it, jamming vice grips into it, and eventually getting oil filter pliers and practically ripping it in half).
When I got the filter off the hilarity ensued. Besides not putting any kind of gasket between the oil cooler and the block I didn't even put the nut on to keep the thing in place. So it was only being held on by the oil filter.
Not sure what measures I should take to make sure I didn't/don't **** myself over but I am thinking before I take her out run one more change of oil through her and go back to the straight 30 weight oil for the break in. Anybody have any recommendations?
#159
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I would do just as you describe. I would put new oil in it run it for about 15 min. then change it and run it for about 15 min. Then check it. If you feel anything looks weird change it again then test it.