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Old 07-16-2013, 11:59 AM   #141
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are you using nitrous in for the a/c switch?
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:59 PM   #142
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From memory:
IN > tableswitch
OUT > nitrous

A/C worked before installing turbo. This is something new.
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:06 PM   #143
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must be the wiring. this is a simple ground in to trigger the event and then ground out to the compressor relay.
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:07 PM   #144
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When I get the relay installed I will continue to troubleshoot.
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:50 PM   #145
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For what it's worth, the A/C indicator "light" in tunerstudio lights when I press the button on the dash so that tells me that the pressure switch and the button on the dash are giving the MS3x what it is looking for.

When I swapped relays with the condenser fan relay the A/C clutch engaged and the A/C started working, but it got way high in pressure and didn't blow very cold. That could have something to do with the fact that we didn't have the condenser fan running though. A/C relay has been ordered and will be at my local dealership tomorrow.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:47 AM   #146
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Spool data: (will cross post to spool thread but including more info here)

RPM PSI
2359 0
2392 1.2
2569 2
2895 3
3318 4
3468 5
3599 6
3695 7.1
3767 8.1


Precision 4828
BEGI cast manifold
Non separated Gasses Downpipe
EBC limited to 162kpa @ 100% throttle
2.5" exhaust with stock muffler for now.
Pull starts with 100.3 degree MAT ; Coolant @ 198.2
Pull ends with 101 degree MAT ; Coolant @ 198.5
5th gear pull
Attached Files
File Type: msl 2013-07-17_07.17.59.msl (414.7 KB, 97 views)

Last edited by Chiburbian; 07-17-2013 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:41 PM   #147
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I wasn't very impressed with the spool at first.
Then I noticed you have 2.5" piping and a stock muffler.
Now I'm much more impressed. Looks like it comes on similar to a 2560
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:42 PM   #148
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Yeah, I am pretty ok with it. The funny thing is that there is like NO exhaust noise on acceleration. It is just a WHOOOSH! (ok ok, yes Whoosh IS a noise)

I have a couple bottlenecks in my system. Some I will stay with, others will be replaced in time.

The muffler will be swapped out with the magnaflow in a week or so, and from there I will save up enough money to go ARtech or Absurdflow tubular manifold, DP, and 3" midpipe.

Honestly once I get the muffler I will be pretty happy with it for awhile I think. I just need to work on the tuning a bit. I am a little concerned about stuff like adjusting timing for coolant temp and AITs. Last thing I want is for the engine to get a bit hotter than I am used to running (and thus tuned to) and detonate.

I have the MS3 knock module installed, but I am concerned about it having the right settings to actually protect me. I haven't found the data as of yet to set it all up to my satisfaction. Also to protect myself I reduced the timing about 2-5 degrees in the areas of high load and fattened up EVERYTHING over 100% to 11.1 afrs. Optimal? NO. Paranoid much? YES.

EDIT re knock settings: checking out this thread as we speak MS3x Knock Module Settings Thread

Last edited by Chiburbian; 07-17-2013 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:22 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Why do you have the fans constantly running? The fans should theoretically be on only at idle or sitting in stop and go traffic.
Well, the reason I mentioned my "fan running" was because it seemed odd to me. I am going to guess that it may have something to do with ducting OR the fact that I am not running a re-route or upgraded radiator.

Coolant temperatures never get above 206 degrees.

On the MS3 my fan OFF temp is 197 degrees, my ON temperature is 192 degrees.
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:40 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiburbian View Post
On the MS3 my fan OFF temp is 197 degrees, my ON temperature is 192 degrees.
you should do 200 ON and 192 OFF...
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:43 PM   #151
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lolol no wonder they never turn off
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:27 PM   #152
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Well, on the ride home my temps never dropped below 196 once they got up there. Mind you it was 90 something degrees out today.

Also of note, my temps seemed to go up at speed, and I am not talking about the normal boost heat. It never got above 207 though.

By the way, I got the A/C relay and the compressor works now, but it doesn't cycle. Pressure got so high that the compressor stopped the engine at idle. I will try metering the pressure switch tomorrow. Early start tomorrow, I think I will drive the Jeep with working A/C.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:30 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
you should do 200 ON and 192 OFF...
Yeah that's what I meant. Wrote it backwards.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:22 AM   #154
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Did a 5th gear pull to about 110mph this morning on the way to work.

Here is where I am at per virtual dyno:
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Chiburbian's 01' Lots of potential, no follow-through build-vdyno_7_18.jpg   Chiburbian's 01' Lots of potential, no follow-through build-p4828.7.18.13.png  
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:55 PM   #155
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A/C issue resolved. I burned out my relay. After replacing it I was having a problem where at idle my car would die when it got close to the pressure where the compressor would normally cycle. I thought maybe it was a pressure switch problem but it turned out to be an idle VE problem.

Idle sucks right now by at least it keeps rnning with the A/C on. I will work more on that this week end.
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:14 AM   #156
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your afr's suck
fix em

otherwise good start
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:32 AM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiburbian View Post
Idle sucks right now by at least it keeps running with the A/C on. I will work more on that this week end.
whos base settings were you using?
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:53 AM   #158
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Started out as Y8s msq. I will post my msq tomorrow. Laptop is in the trunk and car is at another worksite.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:54 AM   #159
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what firmware are you on? you should be implementing both voltage pwm% correction and spark advance compensation...pretty much makes idle impossible to screw up even with awful PID settings.
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:20 PM   #160
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Firmware is 0262.07

Attached is the final MSQ from this morning's drive and after adjusting for A/C.

Some things to know:
  • My AIT sensor is located in the end tank of my intercooler about 24" from the throttle plate.
  • My timing light is out on loan so I haven't confirmed timing since I have replaced the timing belt. Yes this is dumb, but it is also why my timing "trigger" is set so conservative at 5 compared to Y8s who runs 6.5. I couldn't tell with enough certainty the difference between 5 and 6.5 even when I timed it with a light the first time but I have since used a paint marker on the lines so it should help when I do it tomorrow.
  • My ignition table has been modified to be 3 and 5 degrees retarded after 1800 rpm in boost.
  • My AFRs were taken to 11.1 EVERYWHERE in boost until they got close. When I get the timing trigger verified I will drop in the AFRs from my original map and let it readjust.
I am not claiming that is a correctly built tune. I am willing to change stuff and improve stuff. I just wanted to be very very safe to start and fine tune from there.
Attached Files
File Type: msq 2001 Miata LS_2013-07-19_11.16.26.msq (172.0 KB, 242 views)

Last edited by Chiburbian; 07-19-2013 at 01:58 PM.
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