Fixed my exhaust problems today. I have the BEGI downpipe that has that long cinch bolt or whatever you call it. I thought it was tight but the vibration loosened up the joint I the point where it was way too long. I shortened up the DP and no more exhaust rattle. My sanity is slowly being restored.
While I was down there I mocked up a panel to bridge the gap between my bumper and the undertray. I am losing far too much cool air and my car is running really hot as a result. I am buying some of that aluminum coro-plast type stuff (duo bond or alumalite?) and hopefully the panel I am building will seal it up enough.
Timing has been verified and I returned my AFR table to the way it was when I got it from Y8s. Ignition table is still erring to safety for now.
I will be driving and letting VEAL do its thing over the next few days. Hopefully I'll be able to get the car to the exhaust guy this week as well.
Posted this in another thread, but I figured I would post here too. Here is what I actually paid for everything in my setup (within a few dollars here and there):
Megasquirt 3x, knock, clock, mapdaddy: $865
Harness, wiring etc: another $150 or so
AEM wideband: about $180
Clutch/Pressure Plate from 949racing: $638
Tein S-tech springs: $230
Supermiata front and rear sway kit: $449
Fatcat Motorsports bumpstops: $80 (?)
Timing Belt: $58
Water pump: $57
Intercooler, piping, BEGI manifold, downpipe, 2.5" midpipe, air filter. $400
Precision 4828 turbo: $1,250
BEGI oil/water distribution block and braided drain: $289
Electronic Boost Control from DIYautotune: $47
3" Magnaflow muffler fabbed locally: $340
Inconel manifold to turbo studs with locking hardware: $155
To save money I bought some used stuff and as I bought each "kit" I took the best parts and sold the rest. I can easily chop another $400 off the total once I sell the stuff I have sitting in my garage.
I am not very happy with my progression on the project. The first item that is giving me fits is maintaining boost. I am running closed loop and I am either getting crazy oscillation throughout the revs or conversely I am getting crazy boost spikes (on initial boost rise) if I go full throttle from 2k up in fourth gear up.
As an experiment I went open loop and basically bypassed the EBC and ran straight wastegate. Even on wastegate I am getting oscillations so that is leading me to think that my wastegate actuator signal is creating a feedback loop. Currently it is getting a signal from a port about 8 inches from the turbine outlet. I will create a port just before the throttle plate charge pipe and see how that works.
Also, I am going to change how my map sensor gets its signal at some point hopefully today.
Another issue is a strange iidle problem that tends to happen when the car is restarted after heatsoak. It starts right up but goes to between 2500 and 3000 rpms for a period of time. It's really obnoxious. I will work on that and post logs and msq when I get near a computer.
Oscillations described above likely caused by the 12v lead to one of my injectors shorting on the intake manifold.
However, I am still having strange problems with misfires and going very lean especially after heat soak. The percentage I would have to increase my fuel is far higher than any MAT correction. I noticed this morning when I parked my car and raised my windows the engine almost died. This is leading me to think that there is either yet another ground issue somewhere or my charging system needs a little attention.
I am thinking that perhaps when I start my car immediately after driving it I am high enough in engine temps for the fan to kick on and create a load. This load might be effecting how well my injectors are firing... Or I may be completely off base. I'd love to hear some thoughts.
Installed DW200 fuel pump. I would have taken pictures but my hands were covered in gasoline and I didn't want to wreck my phone. Took it for a drive, still had lean-outs during load.
This morning I pulled my spark plugs to check gap. I don't recall ever checking them before installing them. Sure enough, they were gapped at about .044 and I am on stock coils so I re-gapped them to about .028 to .030. All I had handy was one of those circular gapping tools so I wasn't able to be super accurate. I don't know if that helped or not because it was raining badly all morning and anytime I started to get into boost I started breaking the rear tires loose.
Gas tank was 7/8 full and the road was probably varied from a 2-6% grade.
Also, the dyno plot is unadjusted virtualDyno numbers so on a different dyno I am sure I would be higher.
I notice that my knockIN shows gets a bit high at about 6500rpm and I am not sure if I should be concerned about that. I didn't notice my knock retard kicking in - should it have?
Check out my log for more info. I am curious to hear comments. How does my ignition map look when taking my log into account?
(just noticed my runs from earlier had my total weight at 2480 and my tire height at 22.46." My tire is a 205/45-16... I may have to double check that. I KNOW my weight is closer to what is represented in the most recent pull though.)
Last edited by Chiburbian; 11-18-2013 at 07:58 AM.
After installing the ID1000s I did a quick audio clip of my exhaust for a guy who is shopping.
I will do a better video in the spring with some more idling and hopefully a properly set up launch control.
I have to completely start over with my VE map. The low-z injectors without resistors or peak and hold board totally threw off my map. I am pretty sure I will see some significant improvements once the weather warms to the point where I can tune/drive it.
I may put some miles on it tonight or tomorrow if the weather holds. I really miss driving it but I don't want to expose it to unnecessary salt.
Decided to give cooling my next priority. I know it's not a trackspeed but this in addition to some better shrouding should help, especially considering this is a street car that will see a season of autocross...
I will post pics of the install.
Last edited by Chiburbian; 01-31-2014 at 03:24 PM.