newold_m

iTrader: (2)

Check out the latest issue of GRM - they have a test comparing 200TW tires. For autocross Rival S was a significant improvement over Rival.

Crazyblackman

Will look into it, they are not that much more expensive, and they are in stock so I figured if I will be getting tires, I will need them more so now than later.

Appreciate the feedback

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Call Phill's Tire (a sponsor here). When I asked them about the Rival S, they said not for daily or endurance racing.

What I took from that is, it's an autoX tire.

I have less than 8k on my Rivals and the rears are completely toast. If I would have rotated on time I would estimate the set to last about 10k with my driving. I will buy the regular Rivals again because I don't want to be replacing tires more than once a year.

Crazyblackman

Appreciate the heads up

From what I read, seems it is definitely more of a autocross tire. I am not too worried about life of the tires, since I work from home. Had the car almost 2 years now, got it at 85K on the clock, just now at 98K.

If I would have also rotated my tires on time and got a proper alignment I would still be running mine currently.

Crazyblackman

So finally got in the garage again today. Got the car running again and is no longer leaking oil from what I can tell. Also ordered tires, could not find rivals, so I ordered some rs3's this time around, will see how well they hold up. Can't be worse then the spent tires I have now.


Should be here on Wednesday.

Also the car now starts consistently even after running hot. So seems that it was the starter which is a great thing in my mind. Crisis averted. Still may need a new battery but will get it checked out.

Didn't put the oil cooler on this go around, just wanted the car actually running at this point so that will be another day when I have more time on my hands.

Crazyblackman

Guess I still have a leak haha
Looked under the car today, noticed covered in oil again, so don't think it was the seal. Maybe oil pan but I know I used a heavy amount of sealant to prevent a leak.


Looked at oil return line and that's dry, appears to be more on the right side then left. I'm thinking it may be the part of the front seal of the oil pan. So I just put more sealant around the edges and we will see if it's a bandaid fix for now.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Clean that mess and put dye in your oil. That's a big leak and it's source will be obvious with dye and about 5 minutes of running.

Crazyblackman

Cleaned the mess already for the 2nd time.

Really hoping it's not the oil pan, but I assume I will need a black light of some sort in order to find it. Assuming the dye doesn't harm your engine if left in there?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Amazon dye kit.

Crazyblackman

I'll probably just go to autozone and get there dye kit since it is down the road. Does Home Depot just have like a small portable black light?

Edit: They do

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

A couple of examples of what dye will show you:

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...6/#post1155836

https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...e2/#post975432

Crazyblackman

Awesome examples! Will go ahead and get the stuff here in the next couple of hours. Then give it a go. Didn't even think about the oil pump being an issue. Welp hope it isn't the oil pump/oil pan. We shall see later today. I really need a second car.

Thanks hornetball always helping out haha

Crazyblackman

So went out there today to source this leak. I believe this is what happened, I had an oil leak, after replacing the crank seal I haven't lost any oil when I beat on the car.

I put some dye in the oil today and beat it up to test out.




The dye was red, so I beat it up go in the garage and immediately lift the car up



THAT IS GREEN!!!! Which means coolant, and judging by the area it would seem the sealant for my waterpump is not doing its job. Also not sure if my radiator is leaking or that is just back splash from the coolant hitting the belt and flinging it?

Regardless this is great news!!! Means that I do not need to pull the engine, just need to fix this seal go out and test again.

Crazyblackman

Got my new to me wheels last night.
Rota rkr 15x9 +0 these are some temp wheels for now in the long run not sure what I will get but still plenty of other things to do between now and then.



Hope to have these with fresh rubber, and mounted on Monday or Tuesday. Will need to get flares put on soon after since I will have some mexiflush going on for a while haha.

PAUL, hope you got my Facebook message.

Birthday weekend going to the lake, and just gonna have a blast. Then come back Sunday and still have 2 days off is gonna be awesome.

humming

iTrader: (2)

So remind me what wheels you had on before? 6UL's? What's happening to those?

Crazyblackman

Those are being sold to Paul. I have personally wanted flares for a while, so I will be selling the 15x8 6UL's local. I would prefer to have something fill the flares more so without a spacer which is why I am selling them.

More than likely will reunite with 6UL's again later down the road. More so after this summer. Debated getting the car up, and going to the track this summer, but things change, so I'm curious to know where I will even take it.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

UV dye under a black light is yellow-green. It's an oil leak. Looks like you Are missing an oil pump bolt.

Crazyblackman

Really? Hmm weird that it shows up red in the bottle, and on my finger. The oil cause it to change color at all? I also was leaking coolant. I know that cause temps start to climb above 209 after 30 mins of casual driving.

Tonight my water pump bolts were pretty damn loose like scary loose. I just re-did the seals on the waterpump for the added security and loctite them bitches down.

Also went checking tightness in the remaining bolts around the oil pump too. One bolt was loose but that was on the right side. It would just spin around so I just replaced with a new one. If anything sounds like I need another bolt anyways. It is just empty and threaded from when I looked at it. Will get a bolt and seal it up anyways to hopefully resolve that issue for good.


Also got my tires in today


Hope to have them mounted and ready to go early next week.

Crazyblackman

Well after a long 4 day vacation for my birthday weekend, I got back to business today. Finished putting the car back together again. Timing, gaskets, belts, etc. Realized that my temp gauge wasn't moving after 10 mins. Checked and the little bar went missing.


So I got a new one. Put it in, and then couldn't find the connector.


So respliced the wire put another connector on it and put it back together. Worked perfectly. So after running the car, car was not over heating, I just used water and water wetter this time seemed to help. Until I got on the highway. Didn't overheat but got hotter than normal. Put some more water wetter in there for later. Seemed to do better. Started auto tuning a little too, should really post a log or something.

After car was running gave it a few revs shut it down and checked for leaks again.



I think we are all good. Had to tighten the water line for the turbo going to the waterpump. That saved the loose of coolant. Checked oil no lose that I can tell, burped the coolant system no lose that I could tell after that either.

Went for a drive and felt great, no major issues just driving to drive. Been a while. Put the new wheels on temporarily was going to get them mounted today but realized I will need to raise my car up until I put the flares on fully. I already rubbed with 205/50/15 at my height and I'm no were near slammed. So that will be next weeks chore. Hopefully I can get to Paul's this weekend to get the flares on, but who knows another busy weekend. Moms b day is next week so that will be fun too.

Anyways random grocery trip


How much they poke out now before flares.


Welp that is all for now, need to get my interior game back up and running. Need the tires mounted first then can put the door panels back on.

Crazyblackman

Seems it has been a while. I have done almost nothing. I have finally put some cushion behind the speakers.

Also have no AC still but that is my own doing just haven't gone to get it filed and was confused about one piece. So it is wired up and such. The piece I was confused on was the piece that came from the old condenser I didn't know what it did. I finally looked it up and it is the temperature switch for the compressor.

Basically cycles when the compressor turns on and off. I looked all over but didn't find much on how to swap it over. The easy answer is just pull on it from the old and it will come out, it is only wedged between the fins, then you can transfer to new one.

This is the temperature switch.


Once I took it out this is what it looked like the new condenser you can just move be find a bit then slide it in.





So I literally just need to fill the system now. Talked to a place they said $175 to fill it and $40 to test for leaks. Seemed kind of high to me so I may talk to my buddy to test it too.

Other than that I have just been driving around enjoying the thing still need to adjust the ebc shoots a little high at times. Got a new computer as well so I can tune more on my own time vs when the other half isn't using it also.