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Can I be your assistant, I am trying to get back to Germany.
Yeah I remember you used to work for BMW as well i'll send you a PM later.
Originally Posted by damir130
Looking at the specs the 205/50/15 AR1's have a 214mm section width that is similar to their 215 wide tires, so those might be wider than their 205 markings might suggest. Otherwise the number of available 225/45/15 tires in Europe is down to zero.
do you happen to know the width of the rim it was measured on?
Downright dangerous in wet conditions...according to all reports so far.
You could try the new NS-2R super-soft 100 compound as a dual duty setup? They are noted as having the same 215mm section width. But you'll probably go through a set a year or more.
So the first parts are in: forged ebay rods. They say "MaxPeeding" which - being named Max - I take as a good omen.
will put them on a proper digital scale when I find the time as fine-balance them if needed.
ARP bolts FTW.
on a more discouraging note I crashed my winter car at low speed in a multi-floor parking lot due to black ice, shoving a brand new BMW into another. Endless joy.
Interesting. I wonder if we will see them in the US?
You don't need them. You have plenty of choices :-p
Originally Posted by damir130
Awesome, finally a new option!
Any word on when they'll become available?
Nope. Somewhen this year. Still I wonder if it's worth switching to 15x9 wheels. If we run out of nankangs, we'll be sort of lost, having only Toyo 888s and R1r to our avail.
measuring a mere true 225 mm, I'm not convinced the 225/45/15 will be noticeably faster than the 205/50/15 on a 15x8 wheel measuring 215 mm.
Interesting. I wonder if we will see them in the US?
Based on the tread pattern, it's highly unlikely since it wouldn't pass DOT. It would have to come in as a radial race slick and that's not a large US market.
Nope. Somewhen this year. Still I wonder if it's worth switching to 15x9 wheels. If we run out of nankangs, we'll be sort of lost, having only Toyo 888s and R1r to our avail.
There are no more R888s or R1Rs in 225/45-r15 except those that are waiting for a buyer in a warehouse somewhere. Both have been discontinued for some time now. You can switch to 225-50 Kumho V710s, which some people are running with success at higher ride heights. I think its easier to make them work now with the extended ball joints. You also have the 235-40-15 Avon ZZS for 180€, while not as fast as the ZZR it should last a long time and OK in the wet.
Originally Posted by Eunos91
Measuring a mere true 225 mm, I'm not convinced the 225/45/15 will be noticeably faster than the 205/50/15 on a 15x8 wheel measuring 215 mm.
I don't quite get this statement? Are you comparing a true 225 vs a 215 wide 205 against each other with both of them mounted on a 8J wheel? The answer to that one is probably that the additional aero drag negates the small advantage of the 10mm wider tire.
Both will work better on 9s than 8s. Whether that difference is large enough to make the switch to 9s a smart move? That's the big question. I've read reports of AR-1s as being a few seconds faster than 888s, but also seen reports of a 15 inch size on an MX5 that said they turned to mush and heat cycled out a lot earlier than the usual suspects. Its too early to say, but its good to see that the ringbanana guys like them...
Also, the 225 17s AR1s are more like 235 wide, so I'm hoping that carries over to the smaller sizes.
Option a) I put a 225/45/15 on a 15x9 wheel. According to Nankang the 225 tire really is 225 mm wide.
option b) I put a 205/50/15 on a 15x8 wheel. According to Nankang it is 214 mm wide.
so will the 9 mm wider 225 really matter in real life? Or is the narrower tire almost as good in terms of grip, while being more commonly available and lighter?
Day after day, day after day
we stuck nor breath nor motion
Combating excessive heat is a major concern. Less so on the track, but rather when pushing hard up a mountain pass where speeds might be low and flow through the radiator limited. U therefore got me a 25 row oil cooler kit. I'll mount it behind the alloy radiator, approximately 25 mm apart and fully ducted. I decided to do so after talking to a friend from the M GmbH. He engineers the cooling system for the M cars and owns an MX-5 himself. His first advice was to use heat exchangers, but we quickly settled for the oil cooler behind the rad. The oil can take higher temps than water. So it will be both warmed up quicker after the start, cooled even by warm air from the rad when pushing hard, and still allow a certain amount of fresh air to cool the rad. Full ducting of the mouth is mandatory of course.
parts have mostly arrived, which took quite some time (and cash) due to frickin' customs charges and import duties. Anyway, stoked to finally have the parts from Fab9Tuning here. Props to Brian for ace customer support.
I took the engine parts to an engine engineer and fellow motorcycle rider today to have the eBay rods and supertech pistons weighed. The rods came in at 525.8, 525.5, 525.8 and 525.6 g. We were fairly impressed how accurately they measured.
The Supertech pistons weighed 284.9, 284.3, 285.0 and 284.7 g without pins. The pins weighed 84.7-84.8 g. We decided to call it a day and not bother any more about weight matching them.
Also, my EV14 750cc injectors from Clean-Injection (eBay) arrived on Saturday. They included a test protocol with latency times for several voltages along with flow data. They also came with an adapter harness and dropped right in. No messing with top hats whatsoever. However, the car ran like crap. Way too lean! Like AFR 19-20 when warm! So I went upstairs to drown my sorrow over crappy injectors in some Bavarian beer when I discovered a post be Reverant stating EV14s like to idle at around VE=70 (!) compared to the previous 48. Will try it later. If I fail, I still have plenty of beer left.
EV14s are in. Gone is idle roughness, for whatever reason.
I also ordered some parts which are only available overseas. The BE oil pump cost an arm and a leg, but surely is a neat piece to look at. Also, stage 8 fasteners were impossible to find in Europe, so I had to import them.
Boundary Engineering oil pump
Stage 8 turbo fasteners
Slowly preparing the engine for disassembly and forging. Shortened and ditched some unused wires. Next steps will be to make a new clean wiring harness and get the injectors to run properly. Then I will remove the engine, have the crank assembly balanced, the block bored out to 83.5 mm and the head shaved, and rebuild the engine. Then a short N/A run-in period before things hopefully will get boosted.
I'll be following your build closely as it resembles mine, or at least what I want mine to be in the future, very well. Best of luck! Share any info you get!
i'll send you a PM later.
01-11-2017, 06:59 AM
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