Sean

iTrader: (12)

Looks sweet!!

chicksdigmiatas

iTrader: (11)

Yes, do away with the intercooler pipes that look like a **** Barney made. But really, Good luck with your quest for power.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

No post porting pics of the manifold? When will we get input on gains/losses?

I think some pink would look at home in that bay

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

No porting pics, sorry. The port matching looked just like regular miata runners, just a bit better.

Here's some pics of my ported head runners though.



I went for a drive tonight and logged a bunch. Comparing logs, in boost, AFRs leaned up .25 to 1.0 so it definitely flows more. Cruise and idle were unchanged. I can't really tell if there any difference in part throttle driveability or in boost onset. I still need to measure the stock manifold volumes.

I trimmed some more things out of the harness- emissions stuff. Also rewrapped some of the factory wiring and hid some of the harness under the intake plenum. The bay is slowly starting to look better- I'm pretty pleased. Here are some pics:





Next up is the crankcase ventilation to slash cut and I will also have my BOV fitting welded directly onto my intake piping. I don't need the BEGI pipe extension anymore.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Fae, have you looked at how FM is mounting their coils? Don't you have the same ones? It might look a little cleaner than your sheet metal attempt.

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...20WITH%20COILS

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

So, what size are those water nozzles?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Yes, thanks. Unfortunately, I have different coils so that exact kit would not be plug and play. I looked at home depot and lowes for cylindrical spacers to try to make one like that but only found ones that were too small. What's a good source for spacers?

aquamist .5mm

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Just what you were waiting for!

Another shitty video

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Actually I am waiting for you to stop changing **** and get your car tuned.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

YOU NEED MORE BOOST!!!!! Let that built motor breath. Leatherface is running 24 psi on his stock block get that thing tuned at 30 psi and let it eat it will be sick.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Getting this made for a bump in the line for my slash cut system:

leatherface24

iTrader: (10)

I am going to do a 4th gear pull on my way home, post it in here, and make you throw a childish tantrum. TURN THE GOD DAMNED BOOST UP!

In all seriousness though,when are you going to tune the car some more? I really want to see at least 25psi and a dyno chart to go with it.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Tonight I went up to .05 gap on the coils and they kept misfiring regardless of what I did with dwell. Went down to .04 gap and the same damn thing kept happening, just less frequently. So, I went back to .025ish gap and the **** worked. I don't know what the **** is wrong because other miatas have run .04 gap with more boost on wussier coils. In the hydra there are only two dwell settings- dwell by voltage and dwell trim by rpm. so blah. suck. Maybe I can blame it on wires? I will order some magnacores when I figure out the final mounting spot for the coils.

I turned it up to 19psi tonight and it peaks around 22psi because of my MBC. Damn I must say that 2psi made a HUGE difference. Bad thing is that it now spools like 1000RPM later! That works in first and second for traction but really I think that is gay as ****. **** that. My guess is that my in-cabin MBC has something to do with it; my vacuum lines for the MBC are about 8 feet long apiece which means a 16 foot round trip before the signal hits the wastegate. ****. I am dissapoint. I really need EMS switchable high/low boost so I can fall back to wuss boost if WI ***** out. Maybe I will try to make the hydra boost control work.

leatherface24

iTrader: (10)

Mine spools late as **** but I prefer it that way for drivability but the odd thing is that the more I turn the boost up, the quicker it spools so I dont know. A proper EBC thatll allow you to control gain will help out massively and its why im eventually getting a Profec B but I know you can do the same with the 50 dollar FM EBC as well. I might get that first.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

So your getting a catch can made but won't buy an ebc? Something sounds wrong there to me.

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

Save your money, that tank is very similar to one available off the shelf for 50 bucks.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Stay tuned. I should be able to make this MBC work properly. Worst case scenario, I will mount it in the engine bay. Am going to try to get the Hydra EBC working today.

This one will only cost $10 more. Also, I wasn't able to find an off the shelf sealed baffled can with -12 fittings.

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

Wait, are you telling me there is no vent on your catch tank? The whole idea of a catch tank is to vent the crankcase and catch areosolized liquids.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Right. I will vent the crankcase by welding shut the pcv and breather ports, enlarging the hole separating the two breather baffles, put a -12 bung on top of the valve cover near the breather, then:

route bung to sealed baffled catch can
route catch can to exhaust slashcut:



The purpose of the can is to collect some blowby so it doesn't all just dump to my exhaust.

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

Seems like a complicated system. Why reinvent the wheel? Vented catch cans have been around forever, all you need to do is drain them with each oil change. One other consideration, what happens to cranks flow when you are on boost and exhaust flow and pressure increase, will you have as much venting of the cranks? Or, will increased exhaust pressure lower cranks breathing efficiency, since the systems are connected?