Got the intake welded up today, port matched, smoothed out some and shined up a bit. I put it on my car and it did a wheel stand right away! Here is a pic
Next I gotta do a log and see how AFRs are affected.
Also, I think I am going to let this IM be the harbinger of my new engine bay decor. I'm going to go for black, silver, and gold. This should look better than my old scheme of black, black, black, black, black, and purple.
Yes, do away with the intercooler pipes that look like a **** Barney made. But really, Good luck with your quest for power.
No post porting pics of the manifold? When will we get input on gains/losses?
I think some pink would look at home in that bay
No porting pics, sorry. The port matching looked just like regular miata runners, just a bit better.
Here's some pics of my ported head runners though.
I went for a drive tonight and logged a bunch. Comparing logs, in boost, AFRs leaned up .25 to 1.0 so it definitely flows more. Cruise and idle were unchanged. I can't really tell if there any difference in part throttle driveability or in boost onset. I still need to measure the stock manifold volumes.
I trimmed some more things out of the harness- emissions stuff. Also rewrapped some of the factory wiring and hid some of the harness under the intake plenum. The bay is slowly starting to look better- I'm pretty pleased. Here are some pics:
Next up is the crankcase ventilation to slash cut and I will also have my BOV fitting welded directly onto my intake piping. I don't need the BEGI pipe extension anymore.
Yes, thanks. Unfortunately, I have different coils so that exact kit would not be plug and play. I looked at home depot and lowes for cylindrical spacers to try to make one like that but only found ones that were too small. What's a good source for spacers?
Tonight I went up to .05 gap on the coils and they kept misfiring regardless of what I did with dwell. Went down to .04 gap and the same damn thing kept happening, just less frequently. So, I went back to .025ish gap and the **** worked. I don't know what the **** is wrong because other miatas have run .04 gap with more boost on wussier coils. In the hydra there are only two dwell settings- dwell by voltage and dwell trim by rpm. so blah. suck. Maybe I can blame it on wires? I will order some magnacores when I figure out the final mounting spot for the coils.
I turned it up to 19psi tonight and it peaks around 22psi because of my MBC. Damn I must say that 2psi made a HUGE difference. Bad thing is that it now spools like 1000RPM later! That works in first and second for traction but really I think that is gay as ****. **** that. My guess is that my in-cabin MBC has something to do with it; my vacuum lines for the MBC are about 8 feet long apiece which means a 16 foot round trip before the signal hits the wastegate. ****. I am dissapoint. I really need EMS switchable high/low boost so I can fall back to wuss boost if WI ***** out. Maybe I will try to make the hydra boost control work.
Mine spools late as **** but I prefer it that way for drivability but the odd thing is that the more I turn the boost up, the quicker it spools so I dont know. A proper EBC thatll allow you to control gain will help out massively and its why im eventually getting a Profec B but I know you can do the same with the 50 dollar FM EBC as well. I might get that first.
Seems like a complicated system. Why reinvent the wheel? Vented catch cans have been around forever, all you need to do is drain them with each oil change. One other consideration, what happens to cranks flow when you are on boost and exhaust flow and pressure increase, will you have as much venting of the cranks? Or, will increased exhaust pressure lower cranks breathing efficiency, since the systems are connected?