H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G
#723
Posted a couple full logs in the vvt thread actually
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...2/#post1066431
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...2/#post1066431
#727
Hahaha yeah its a pain. I actually started with a drill and some 2" scuff pad fittings. Roughed it up, then went over with some 180 sandpaper. Then a wire brush fitting.
Next up I'll have to bust out the air tools and finish it off or something. I have no idea if this will come out looking good lol, so my plan B is to drop it off at powdercoat place.
In other news,
I'm realizing that I'm enjoying the heck out of working on this thing at a snails pace. Since I'm so OCD, it makes me happy to be able to triple check every bolt, follow every tightening sequence, and use exact torque specs on everything according to the OEM FSM>
Next up I'll have to bust out the air tools and finish it off or something. I have no idea if this will come out looking good lol, so my plan B is to drop it off at powdercoat place.
In other news,
I'm realizing that I'm enjoying the heck out of working on this thing at a snails pace. Since I'm so OCD, it makes me happy to be able to triple check every bolt, follow every tightening sequence, and use exact torque specs on everything according to the OEM FSM>
#729
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Looking sexy Vlad. I'm starting to want a tubular manifold like that. What do you think I would gain going from my BEGI log to something like that ? I know there are topend gains to be had, but is it worth it for my 280-330whp goals?
#730
Thanks guys.
Eh, I don't really know. I mean I know there are gains to be had in both power and spool, because the downpipe routing is not compromised, and the runners are much better, but if I knew I wasn't going past 300 I'd probably stick with the log which is known to be dead reliable. Although with your elevation you might need something like this to break 300 on a disco potato
Eh, I don't really know. I mean I know there are gains to be had in both power and spool, because the downpipe routing is not compromised, and the runners are much better, but if I knew I wasn't going past 300 I'd probably stick with the log which is known to be dead reliable. Although with your elevation you might need something like this to break 300 on a disco potato
#731
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Thanks for your input. I'm going to go with a big divorced wg downpipe for the new turbo setup, but I also think I'm going to port the **** out of my log manifold. At least port match the head flange and the turbo flange part, and smooth up the insides where I can reach at least.
I read somewhere those particular manifolds have a high failure rate so i stayed away form that setup for now. After feeling this new turbo, its ****** heavy compared to my tiny t25 so I could see a log coming into play for reliability for sure.
Although couple that turbo mani with a honda grafted IM and you should have some glory.
I read somewhere those particular manifolds have a high failure rate so i stayed away form that setup for now. After feeling this new turbo, its ****** heavy compared to my tiny t25 so I could see a log coming into play for reliability for sure.
Although couple that turbo mani with a honda grafted IM and you should have some glory.
#733
Might be worth hitting it with wrinkle or powdercoat. I used to rock the all polished cover and it was a weekly process trying to keep it clean.
How much clear did you put on and how long do you think it will stay like that? A flat matte clear might help hide the marks and give it a more uniform look.
How much clear did you put on and how long do you think it will stay like that? A flat matte clear might help hide the marks and give it a more uniform look.
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Reason: Spamming to post a for sale ad pissed off the mods
#737
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I'll be watching for when you decide to go VHT Wrinkle Black, because I have questions
It doesn't actually look that bad. We would get that soft brushed aluminum look on parts at the machine shop by using a dark red Scotch Brite pad but it really takes some work to get consistent. I've never tried it on a cast part like a valve cover though.
It doesn't actually look that bad. We would get that soft brushed aluminum look on parts at the machine shop by using a dark red Scotch Brite pad but it really takes some work to get consistent. I've never tried it on a cast part like a valve cover though.
#739
This thing is a PAIN. Seriously. I think its defective or close to it. The engine in my car now the cover is flawless, like no imperfections whatsoever.
This thing, on the other hand, was like 60% casting flaws and imperfections. I have no idea how they could be so different when they're both off a 2001.
If it wasn't so bad I'd have just cleared it and called it a day.
Honestly though it doesn't look that bad. Pics might make it look more spotty than it actually is. IF it was terrible I'd re-do it, but its not.
*edit: I'll snap a picture in sunlight today, maybe the garage light is tripping it out
This thing, on the other hand, was like 60% casting flaws and imperfections. I have no idea how they could be so different when they're both off a 2001.
If it wasn't so bad I'd have just cleared it and called it a day.
Honestly though it doesn't look that bad. Pics might make it look more spotty than it actually is. IF it was terrible I'd re-do it, but its not.
*edit: I'll snap a picture in sunlight today, maybe the garage light is tripping it out