Just what you need, more things that behave almost nicely, sometimes.
Just give it a couple of weeks and your OCD will have settled enough to accept it as is...
Most probabaly a never ending story
This is so true it's almost painful
Anyways, I can live with startup taking a tiny bit more than OEM as long as its not rough or weird starting or kicking back or something.
I can also live with that rich AFR dip on throttle lift because it doesn't really do anything aside from trigger my OCD
My biggest issue right now is figuring out if the VVT crapola is legitimate or just a funky reading from a sensor that might not be working 100%
Because that issue also comes and goes as it pleases.
I was driving to work today and half the time VVT angle was showing perfect operation. Then it started bouncing around as indicated in the logs. Then it was perfect again. Then it didn't work for a bit, showed VVT angle at 0% .Then worked. Then bouncing again.
It annoys me so much I can't even think straight.
Meanwhile, the car drives great, idles great, AFR's are good, everything feels good.
Mine is just running a CAS and starts like that. Worth mentioning that this thing cranks WAY faster RPM-wise than the MSM ever did. Sounds like it's cranking at like 400rpm or something stupid. Don't know if that's a normal NA thing or not?
But still... i only get about 3, maybe 4 hits at max before it fires.
It sat for two weeks before i took it over to btabor's place on Saturday and it fired exactly the same. Same anywhere from 30F to 100F outside temp.
I put the flyback diode in the VVT pigtail and the extra lenth I spliced in there to make it all work caused the whole thing to flop around. That flopping around eventually wore the insulation off of one of the VVT solenoid wires. While driving I it was ok with some occasional VVT deviation. Over time it got worse and worse to the point where I got a constant VVT error. I threw electrical tape on the short and then wrapped the VVT pigtail with convoluded tubing and my problem went away.
I am not saying that is your problem, but the fact that it is not a constant problem tells me it could be a short or open on a vibrating engine.
I did a very simple test yesterday - it was flipping out the whole way back from work. I get home, simply unplug the Oil Control Valve, then plug it back in.
Go drive around for a few minutes, and its PERFECT. No oscillation, hits target, super smooth.
So yeah, I think this weekend I'm gonna strip the loom off the wires going to the OCV, inspect them really closely, and re-loom them with the best/strongest stuff I can find. I'm still really stumped as to what could be wrong with them though, I've never cut or spliced or modified them in any way. The wiring on my car is 100% untouched OEM.
Dude, you mention flawless, OEM, perfect, blah blah so many times... This was a salvage title, wrecked car, was it not? Do you REALLY know that it was never messed with since the day it was built? Did it never sit for an extended period of time? Maybe a rodent or something got in there at some point?
it's a super nice car. But there's obviously a flaw.
Don't feel too bad though. Anytime you might start feeling sad that it's not flawless, just peek in my thread again
Look at the 1st post - that's all the damage the car had - the damage never even went past the front bumper, the rad support is still original. When I bought the car I gutted it down to almost the very last bolt. Every square inch of the car was inspected, and I really mean every square inch. I swapped the engine in myself, and inspected everything then too. I don't think there is a single part of this car that wasn't carefully inspected.
But I hear you dude. There's obviously a problem with the VVT wire(s) or the VVT solenoid or something, I'm just super hesitant to rip it apart cause its all pretty, all clean, and all OEM.
I'm not sure if you peeked under my hood when I popped it at the hotel when we all met up, but everyone that was there and saw it can verify how clean my engine bay/wiring is. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night otherwise
PS: remember my green miata? I sold it after a few weeks simply because it wasn't up to my standards
That supposedly helps with quick starts as there's no wait for a sync, and fuel is added to the cylinders quicker.
Welp, that looks really cool, but I guess my MS3/firmware or whatever doesn't even have that drop down at all.
But thanks for the link to that guide, for whatever reason I've never even seen it before. Looks really really cool and I bet I'll learn a metric ton when I read it all. This will be my spare time reading material now