H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G
#1463
Wonder if a higher count crank wheel will help with that start. You have the stock one, right?
I'm pretty much down to things to iron out with the tune:
- the cold starts
They are OK. Not bad, not rough anymore, but still not perfect. It takes a bit too many turns to fire up for my liking. Still trying to figure that one out, cause I don't think adding any more cranking pw's is helping. I've also fiddled with the spark map in those cells, which didn't seem to help too much. One other thing I'll be verifying is the idle valve position while cranking - I had it tuned decent, but that was on the previous ms3 so maybe it needs a bit of adjustment.
- the silly little rich dip on throttle lift
I am fairly confident it is related to AE or EAE, because yesterday I was keeping an eye on the "accel enrichments" gauge when it does that, and it spikes to like full enrich for a SPLIT SECOND right before it does that dip. I have looked over my AE settings and simply cannot figure out what is causing it to do that. Sorry, still no log, will get one for sure today.
Other than that, really happy with the way the car is running, and with this MS3.
- the cold starts
They are OK. Not bad, not rough anymore, but still not perfect. It takes a bit too many turns to fire up for my liking. Still trying to figure that one out, cause I don't think adding any more cranking pw's is helping. I've also fiddled with the spark map in those cells, which didn't seem to help too much. One other thing I'll be verifying is the idle valve position while cranking - I had it tuned decent, but that was on the previous ms3 so maybe it needs a bit of adjustment.
- the silly little rich dip on throttle lift
I am fairly confident it is related to AE or EAE, because yesterday I was keeping an eye on the "accel enrichments" gauge when it does that, and it spikes to like full enrich for a SPLIT SECOND right before it does that dip. I have looked over my AE settings and simply cannot figure out what is causing it to do that. Sorry, still no log, will get one for sure today.
Other than that, really happy with the way the car is running, and with this MS3.
#1466
But if you have one and wanna get rid of it please LMK, maybe we can work something out.
I feel like the car should start with the stock wheel just like OEM. I see no reason why it couldn't.
I think I've made a bit more progress on it though. At least it seems like it. Messing with cranking idle valve settings now.
Its really not bad, just not perfect. I bet most people wouldn't even mind, but it bothers me haha
Anyways, I've pretty much realized that nothing I do gets rid of the little rich dip on throttle closing. Nothing. At all. I have logs, will post when I get home. I've tried every single thing under the sun. Maybe I'm overthinking this and it's supposed to do that? After all, it's just reacting to throttle closing by pulling fuel, it can't pull fuel before the throttle is already closed. I dunno. It doesn't affect driveability at all, and really doesn't affect anythying. If I didn't have the wideband I wouldn't even be able to tell. I'm gonna table that one for now, and focus on something else:
VVT
I notice vvt angle % goes bananas past 4k rpm. I've tried a bunch of settings for PID on the way to work, and it was completely unpredictable, working nice and smooth and good, then jerky and wobbly, then smooth, then......you get the idea. Car still drives fine, everything is perfect, except that VVT angle needle. Not sure if faulty reading or what. Will be doing some more VVT tuning research, even though I've read and re-read the common VVT tuning discussions/threads on here enough times that I actually have them memorized.
#1467
For what it's worth I have a 4t wheel and I have the same kind of dip-in when I release the throttle as well. My starts are good by my standards, maybe a bit long compared to my stock Civic. Right now, the car has been sitting for exactly 1 week with no driving. I guarantee when I go over there to take it out for a ride today, if I let the fuel pump fully prime and then crank, it will be a sub 5 second start. Before I got tuned, I would be lucky if priming it twice would help it start, and after that it would idle all over the place until it came out of enrichment.
#1468
HAHAHA see that's what I'm talking about: you, and most others, say their startup is "good". Then you define that by saying "sub 5 second".
Mine has pretty much always been sub 5 second. I consider that "ok". Not good.
I'm trying to make it 2 seconds or less, like OEM
My car right now probably runs amazing by most people's standards.
Mine has pretty much always been sub 5 second. I consider that "ok". Not good.
I'm trying to make it 2 seconds or less, like OEM
My car right now probably runs amazing by most people's standards.
#1472
OK, finally attaching the logs and screen shots of what I'm dealing with in regards to the throttle lift afr dip, and the stupid vvt random issues.
I'm almost thinking the vvt thing is a bad cam sensor. Again (still haven't swapped it out with another one). I just can't imagine the cam physically being able to advance and retard so fast and hard while in steady state cruise
uploaded to this post:
HERE
I'm almost thinking the vvt thing is a bad cam sensor. Again (still haven't swapped it out with another one). I just can't imagine the cam physically being able to advance and retard so fast and hard while in steady state cruise
uploaded to this post:
HERE
#1473
I checked mine and after the priming was complete, I had 3 seconds of cranking before a nice solid start, not cold out, about 65* but been sitting a week.
This was followed by about 3 seconds of clacking of the pistons before quieting down significantly to a quieter clack that lasts about 1-2 minutes. I have 83.5mm Wiseco 8.6 pistons with .004 p2w, Rod and Main bearings .002 via plastigauge (just throwing this out there)
Hot re-starts are easily under 2 seconds, on par with my civic.
This was followed by about 3 seconds of clacking of the pistons before quieting down significantly to a quieter clack that lasts about 1-2 minutes. I have 83.5mm Wiseco 8.6 pistons with .004 p2w, Rod and Main bearings .002 via plastigauge (just throwing this out there)
Hot re-starts are easily under 2 seconds, on par with my civic.
#1475
HAHAHA see that's what I'm talking about: you, and most others, say their startup is "good". Then you define that by saying "sub 5 second".
Mine has pretty much always been sub 5 second. I consider that "ok". Not good.
I'm trying to make it 2 seconds or less, like OEM
My car right now probably runs amazing by most people's standards.
Mine has pretty much always been sub 5 second. I consider that "ok". Not good.
I'm trying to make it 2 seconds or less, like OEM
My car right now probably runs amazing by most people's standards.
#1477
Hmm that's very interesting, and makes sense, but wouldn't that mean that no miata running megasquirt on the stock trigger system would be able to start like OEM? I'm not sure that's the case, but who knows. Everyone's interpretation of "starts great" seems to be different.
Nope, pump gas. Which is why I'm a bit stumped, since it should start perfect.
Nope, pump gas. Which is why I'm a bit stumped, since it should start perfect.
#1479
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I'm sure there's an option somewhere to start in batch fire mode.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/Megas...erence-1.3.pdf
page 148
That supposedly helps with quick starts as there's no wait for a sync, and fuel is added to the cylinders quicker.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/Megas...erence-1.3.pdf
page 148
That supposedly helps with quick starts as there's no wait for a sync, and fuel is added to the cylinders quicker.